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The First Monday in May

The First Monday in May is a 2016 American documentary film directed by Andrew Rossi that examines the preparation and execution of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute exhibition "China: Through the Looking Glass" and its associated annual benefit gala in 2015.^[1]^[2] The film provides behind-the-scenes access to the curation process led by Andrew Bolton, the involvement of Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour in organizing the gala, and the high-profile attendance of celebrities such as Rihanna, who performed at the event.^[1]^[3] The documentary highlights the tensions between artistic integrity and commercial spectacle in mounting the exhibition, which featured Western haute couture garments inspired by Chinese aesthetics from the 18th century to the present, juxtaposed with historical Chinese artifacts.^[4] It attracted over 815,000 visitors, marking it as the most attended exhibition in the Costume Institute's history, and the gala raised substantial funds for the museum's costume department, underscoring the event's role in blending fashion, celebrity culture, and philanthropy.^[5] However, the exhibition drew criticism for perpetuating orientalist stereotypes by prioritizing Western designers' interpretations over authentic Chinese fashion perspectives, with detractors arguing it presented a romanticized, non-critical fantasy of China rather than a balanced historical analysis.^[6]^[7] Reception of the film was generally favorable among critics, earning a 77% approval rating on Rotten Tomatoes based on 60 reviews, though some noted its indulgence in the fashion world's self-importance and lack of deeper scrutiny on the cultural issues raised by the exhibition.^[2] On IMDb, it holds a 7.1 out of 10 rating from over 2,000 users, praised for offering unprecedented access to an elite event while critiqued for not fully interrogating the commodification of art under celebrity influence.^[1] The documentary thus serves as both a celebration of the Met Gala's grandeur and a window into the debates surrounding cultural representation in high fashion.^[8]

Production

Development and Planning

The documentary The First Monday in May originated from a initiative by Condé Nast Entertainment, marking the company's first feature-length film, in collaboration with Vogue to chronicle the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute processes.^[9] Anna Wintour, Vogue's editor-in-chief and longtime chair of the Costume Institute Benefit (commonly known as the Met Gala), played a pivotal role in conceiving the project, driven by her interest in capturing the event's cultural and artistic dimensions beyond surface-level glamour.^[10] Director Andrew Rossi was recruited following a direct outreach from Wintour's office, which admired his prior documentaries such as Page One: Inside the New York Times (2011) for their institutional deep dives.^[10]^[11] Rossi's planning emphasized the exhibition's curatorial development over mere event logistics, centering on curator Andrew Bolton's conceptualization of "China: Through the Looking Glass" as an exploration of Western fashion's appropriation of Chinese aesthetics.^[10] This included securing access for filming Bolton's research trips, such as a visit to Beijing, to highlight ethical tensions around cultural borrowing and the fusion of high art with commercial spectacle.^[10]^[11] Production planning involved coordination among producers Fabiola Beracasa Beckman, Dawn Ostroff, and Sylvana Ward Durrett, who negotiated unprecedented behind-the-scenes entry into the Met's restricted spaces despite logistical hurdles like the institution's sanctity and public disruptions.^[12] Filming commenced in early 2014 during the exhibition's ideation phase and extended through its May 7, 2015, gala opening, allowing Rossi to build narrative suspense around known outcomes by interweaving Bolton's scholarly deliberations with Wintour's fundraising strategies.^[11] Key decisions prioritized a dual focus on artistic integrity versus the gala's celebrity-driven revenue model, which raised over $12 million for the Costume Institute in 2015, while navigating sensitivities over political interpretations of the China theme.^[10]^[11]

Filming Process

The filming of The First Monday in May began in fall 2014, after preliminary discussions in spring 2014, with director Andrew Rossi granted unprecedented access to the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute to document the curation and staging of the "China: Through the Looking Glass" exhibition.^[13] Principal photography ramped up in spring 2015, capturing key phases from artifact selection and exhibit design through to the Costume Institute Benefit on May 4, 2015, before wrapping that same month.^[13] The production spanned approximately eight months, immersing the crew in the exhibition's creative timeline while focusing on curator Andrew Bolton's workflow and Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour's oversight of the gala.^[14]^[13] Access was secured primarily through Vogue's influence, enabling Rossi to shadow Bolton in the institute's archives and Wintour in strategic planning sessions, though it demanded strict compliance with museum protocols to avoid risking damage to irreplaceable garments and artifacts during shoots.^[11]^[13] Filming occurred exclusively in New York City, centered at the Met, with sequences highlighting logistical tensions such as Bolton's race against deadlines amid high-stakes decisions on display aesthetics and celebrity involvement.^[1]^[13] Challenges included maintaining narrative tension in a process with a foregone outcome—the gala's success—while balancing spectacle against substantive exploration of fashion's cultural role, as Rossi emphasized prioritizing Bolton's curatorial vision over mere event glamour.^[11] Post-filming, editing extended into late 2015 to refine raw footage into a cohesive portrait of institutional collaboration between art, commerce, and celebrity.^[13]

Subject Matter

The 2015 Exhibition: China Through the Looking Glass

The exhibition China: Through the Looking Glass was organized by the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute and ran from May 7 to September 7, 2015, following an initial planned closure on August 16 that was extended due to high demand.^[15]^[16] Curated by Andrew Bolton, it featured over 140 garments from haute couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear collections juxtaposed with Chinese artworks, including costumes, paintings, porcelain, and carpets, to illustrate historical cross-cultural exchanges.^[17]^[18] The core focus examined the influence of Chinese aesthetics, particularly through the lens of Western interpretations and cinematic depictions, on international fashion designers such as Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent, spanning from the 18th century to contemporary pieces.^[15]^[17] Rather than presenting an authentic survey of Chinese fashion, the display emphasized the "collective fantasy of China" as perceived and reimagined in Western culture, drawing on Orientalist tropes from films and art to highlight how these distorted representations shaped design motifs like dragons, floral patterns, and silk draping.^[19] Installed across three floors of the Met's galleries, it incorporated multimedia elements evoking cinematic sequences to underscore film's role in perpetuating these aesthetic ideals.^[20] Attendance reached 815,992 visitors, marking it the fifth most-visited exhibition in the Met's history and surpassing the prior record holder, the 2011 Alexander McQueen retrospective, with over 670,000 attendees by mid-August alone.^[16]^[21] This surge contributed to the museum's overall record-breaking fiscal year, with 358,381 visitors to the exhibition by June 30, reflecting broad public interest in the fusion of Eastern motifs and Western luxury.^[22] The show was accompanied by a catalog published by the Met, which further analyzed these influences through essays on specific designers and historical contexts.^[17]

Key Figures and Roles

Andrew Rossi directed The First Monday in May, also serving as cinematographer and editor, capturing the behind-the-scenes process of the 2015 Met Gala and exhibition.^[1] The film was produced by Fabiola Beracasa Beckman, Sylvana Ward Durrett—who also acted as Anna Wintour's executive assistant—Dawn Ostroff, Matthew Weaver, and Skot Bright, under production companies including Condé Nast Entertainment.^[2] Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue and artistic director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute, chaired the 2015 Met Gala, overseeing its organization and fundraising efforts that generated significant revenue for the museum's costume collection.^[23] As a central figure in the documentary, Wintour is depicted coordinating high-profile attendees and aligning the event with the exhibition's theme, drawing on her role established since 1995 in transforming the gala into a major cultural and commercial event.^[24] Andrew Bolton, curator of the Costume Institute, organized the "China: Through the Looking Glass" exhibition, selecting over 140 garments and artifacts to explore Western interpretations of Chinese aesthetics in fashion from the 18th century onward.^[15] In the film, Bolton appears as the meticulous planner navigating curatorial challenges, including loans from designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior, while collaborating with Asian art experts to ensure historical accuracy.^[25] Wong Kar-wai, the Hong Kong filmmaker, served as artistic director for the exhibition, contributing film clips from his works and others to illustrate cinematic influences on fashion's perception of China, integrating media elements that enhanced the display's narrative depth.^[15] His involvement, highlighted in the documentary, bridged Eastern cinematic traditions with Western design fantasies, advising on thematic cohesion amid logistical pressures.^[26] The 2015 gala's honorary co-chairs included Jennifer Lawrence, Gong Li, Marissa Mayer, Wendi Murdoch, and Silas Chou, selected for their prominence in entertainment, technology, and business to amplify the event's global appeal and draw celebrity participation aligned with the China theme.^[24] Designers such as John Galliano and Karl Lagerfeld feature prominently in the film, providing insights into garment loans and the intersection of couture with cultural appropriation debates.^[1]

Central Themes Explored

The documentary examines the contentious boundary between fashion and fine art, portraying curator Andrew Bolton's curation of the "China: Through the Looking Glass" exhibition as an argument for fashion's artistic merit through historical and aesthetic analysis of Chinese influences on Western designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Valentino.^[3]^[27] This perspective challenges traditional hierarchies in museums, where clothing is juxtaposed with paintings and sculptures to underscore shared themes of surrealism and exoticism drawn from Chinese silk motifs and imperial robes dating back to the 18th century.^[28] A parallel theme addresses the fusion of commerce and culture, revealing how the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute relies on the annual benefit gala—attended by over 600 guests on May 4, 2015—to generate funds exceeding $12 million, with Anna Wintour's editorial influence from Vogue driving corporate sponsorships and celebrity participation.^[29]^[30] The film illustrates tensions between artistic integrity and market demands, as Bolton navigates pressures to incorporate high-profile loans and event-ready displays, critiquing the "unholy alliance" of nonprofit institutions, luxury brands, and Hollywood that sustains such spectacles.^[27]^[31] Cultural representation emerges as a focal point, particularly the Western lens on Chinese aesthetics, which the exhibition framed as a dialogue between Eastern traditions and European modernism but sparked debates on orientalism amid selections emphasizing surreal reinterpretations over authentic historical context.^[32] Bolton's approach, influenced by scholars like Harold Koda, prioritizes aesthetic synthesis—pairing 19th-century Qing dynasty embroidery with 20th-century couture—yet the film captures curatorial anxieties over sensitivity to Chinese perceptions, especially post-announcement criticisms in 2014.^[33]^[14] This theme underscores broader questions of cross-cultural borrowing in fashion, where admiration for motifs like dragon embroidery risks reductive exoticization without rigorous historical grounding.^[28]

Release

Premiere and Distribution

The documentary The First Monday in May had its world premiere as the opening night film of the 2016 Tribeca Film Festival on April 13, 2016, at the Tribeca Performing Arts Center in New York City.^[28]^[34] The event featured appearances by key figures from the film, including director Andrew Rossi and subjects like Anna Wintour, highlighting the intersection of fashion and film.^[35] Following the festival premiere, Magnolia Pictures handled theatrical distribution, releasing the film in limited theaters across the United States on April 15, 2016.^[2]^[36] The initial rollout targeted major markets with an emphasis on art-house cinemas, aligning with the documentary's focus on high fashion and cultural institutions.^[37] No wide international theatrical distribution was immediately pursued, though the film later became available on streaming platforms and home video through Magnolia and associated partners.^[38]

Marketing and Promotion

Magnolia Pictures acquired distribution rights and released the documentary theatrically in the United States on April 15, 2016, following its world premiere as the opening-night film at the Tribeca Film Festival on April 13, 2016.^[28]^[37] The festival premiere generated initial buzz among film and fashion audiences, leveraging the event's prestige to highlight exclusive access to the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute preparations.^[39] Promotional efforts included the release of an official trailer in February 2016, distributed via YouTube and fashion media outlets, which teased behind-the-scenes footage of key figures like Anna Wintour and Rihanna preparing for the 2015 Met Gala.^[40]^[41] Vogue, through its association with Wintour, promoted the film by sharing trailer previews and framing it as an extension of the magazine's coverage of the annual event.^[41] Additional clips, such as those focusing on Wintour's role in the gala, were released to build anticipation and emphasize the documentary's voyeuristic appeal into high-fashion event planning.^[42] The marketing strategy targeted fashion enthusiasts and documentary viewers by capitalizing on the Met Gala's cultural cachet, with coverage in outlets like The Hollywood Reporter and WWD amplifying the film's themes of fashion, art, and celebrity influence during the release window.^[37]^[9] This approach contributed to a modest box office performance, grossing over $1 million domestically.^[43]

Reception

Critical Response

The documentary received mixed reviews from critics, with praise for its unprecedented access to the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute and the glamor of the Met Gala, but criticism for lacking depth and critical scrutiny of its subjects. On Rotten Tomatoes, it holds a 77% approval rating based on 60 reviews, with the consensus noting its entertaining glimpse into high fashion despite superficial elements.^[2] Metacritic aggregates a score of 57 out of 100 from 19 critics, classified as mixed or average, with 42% positive, 53% mixed, and 5% negative ratings.^[44] Positive responses highlighted the film's visual appeal and behind-the-scenes insights into curator Andrew Bolton's process and the exhibition's curation. RogerEbert.com's Mark Dujsik acknowledged the film's engagement with the debate over fashion's status as art, appreciating its opening exploration of that tension, though rating it 2 out of 4 stars overall.^[4] IndieWire praised its attempt to address fashion's vapidity by tackling issues like cultural representation and artistic merit, crediting director Andrew Rossi for balancing spectacle with substantive themes.^[31] Some outlets, such as The Film Pie, described it as a "superb documentary" for illuminating the labor behind the 2015 "China: Through the Looking Glass" exhibit.^[45] Critics frequently faulted the film for insufficient critical distance, portraying figures like Anna Wintour and Bolton in an overly reverential light without probing ethical or cultural implications. The New York Times' Ben Kenigsberg called it "sloppy," criticizing its handling of Asian stereotypes—such as including vintage footage of Anna May Wong alongside unrelated clips—as indiscriminate and lacking rigor.^[3] The Guardian's reviewer found it induced a "woozy trance" through star power but was marred by irritation at its uncritical tone toward the event's excesses.^[30] High-Def Digest deemed it "ultimately vapid," arguing that while intriguing moments existed, the film prioritized glamour over meaningful analysis of fashion's societal role.^[46] These critiques reflect a broader sentiment that the documentary functioned more as promotional material than investigative journalism, prioritizing aesthetic allure over substantive examination.^[47]

Commercial Performance

"The First Monday in May" grossed $527,474 at the North American box office following its limited theatrical release on April 15, 2016, by Magnolia Pictures.^[48]^[49] The documentary opened in four locations, generating $99,242 over its debut weekend and averaging $24,810 per screen.^[50] It later expanded to a maximum of 45 theaters, contributing to its total domestic earnings amid competition in the specialty market for documentaries.^[48] International box office figures remain limited and not prominently reported, reflecting the film's niche appeal primarily to fashion enthusiasts and limited global distribution.^[51] No public data on production budget or ancillary revenue streams, such as home video or streaming, has been disclosed, precluding assessment of overall profitability.^[1]

Audience and Industry Feedback

The documentary received a 7.1 out of 10 rating on IMDb from over 2,000 user votes, reflecting generally favorable audience sentiment among viewers interested in fashion and high-society events.^[1] Audience members frequently praised the film for its unprecedented access to the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute, the planning of the 2015 China: Through the Looking Glass exhibition, and the Met Gala itself, describing it as an entertaining glimpse into the "glamorous chaos" of elite fashion production.^[52] However, some viewers critiqued it as superficial, noting a lack of deeper analysis on cultural or artistic substance beyond surface-level spectacle.^[52] On Rotten Tomatoes, the audience score stands at 69% based on nearly 1,900 ratings, with fans highlighting the star power of figures like Anna Wintour and Rihanna, and the film's ability to humanize the exhaustive preparations for the annual fundraiser.^[2] Common positive feedback emphasized its role as a "fashion lover's dream," offering behind-the-scenes details such as costume curator Andrew Bolton's curatorial decisions and the logistical challenges of mounting the exhibition.^[53] Detractors among audiences pointed to repetitive sequences and an overemphasis on celebrity without sufficient critique of the event's exclusivity or commercial underpinnings.^[2] Within the fashion industry, the film garnered supportive responses for elevating the visibility of the Costume Institute's work and the Met Gala's fusion of art, commerce, and celebrity.^[54] Curator Andrew Bolton, a central figure in the documentary, expressed in interviews that it effectively demonstrated fashion's artistic validity, countering ongoing debates by showcasing historical influences like Chinese motifs in Western design without needing to justify the medium's merit further.^[54] Industry outlets such as Vogue celebrated its premiere at the 2016 Tribeca Film Festival as a fitting tribute to the event's prestige, with attendees including Wintour affirming its authentic portrayal of collaborative tensions and triumphs in exhibition planning.^[55] No widespread industry backlash emerged, though some insiders noted privately that the film's promotional tone aligned closely with Vogue's interests, potentially limiting critical distance from the subjects.^[44]

Controversies

Debates on Fashion as Art

The documentary The First Monday in May, directed by Andrew Rossi and released in 2016, opens by explicitly engaging the longstanding question of whether fashion qualifies as art, framing the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute exhibitions as a battleground for this discourse.^[4] Curator Andrew Bolton, a central figure in the film, argues that persistent inquiries into fashion's artistic legitimacy are outdated, emphasizing instead its capacity for aesthetic innovation and cultural narrative akin to fine art traditions.^[54] The film illustrates this through the meticulous curation of the 2015 "China: Through the Looking Glass" exhibition, where designers like Yves Saint Laurent and John Galliano are presented alongside historical artifacts, suggesting fashion's elevation via museum context transforms utilitarian garments into enduring aesthetic objects.^[14] Proponents of fashion's artistic status, as highlighted in the documentary, point to its interdisciplinary creativity—blending sculpture, performance, and historical allusion—evident in the Costume Institute's approach since its integration into the Met in 1937, which positioned clothing as a medium for scholarly analysis comparable to painting or sculpture. Bolton has noted that exhibition themes are intentionally provocative to spark debate, as seen in the 2015 show's juxtaposition of Western interpretations of Chinese motifs, underscoring fashion's role in cultural dialogue.^[56] This view aligns with the Institute's mission to recognize fashion's seven-century evolution as a legitimate artistic domain, with over 33,000 objects in its collection treated as primary sources for aesthetic and social history.^[23] Critics, however, contend that fashion's inherent commercial imperatives—driven by seasonal trends, mass production, and celebrity endorsement—undermine its claim to art's autonomy, rendering exhibitions like those in the film more akin to promotional spectacles than rigorous aesthetic inquiry.^[57] The Met's displays, including the 2015 event, have faced accusations of classist gatekeeping, where recent haute couture is aestheticized in museum spaces historically reserved for non-commercial fine arts, potentially diluting curatorial standards by prioritizing spectacle over substance.^[58] Reviewers of the documentary have observed that while it showcases the exhibition's glamour, it sidesteps deeper scrutiny of fashion's ephemerality and profit motives, which distinguish it from traditional art forms unbound by market cycles.^[4] This tension reflects broader institutional debates at the Met, where fashion's museum enshrinement since the 1960s has blurred disciplinary boundaries but invited skepticism about equating wearable commodities with singular, non-functional masterpieces.

Orientalism and Cultural Representation Criticisms

The exhibition "China: Through the Looking Glass," central to the documentary, was curated by Andrew Bolton to explore Western fashion designers' appropriations of Chinese aesthetics, drawing heavily from historical chinoiserie influences on figures like Yves Saint Laurent, with over 140 garments and accessories displayed from brands such as Dior and Valentino alongside Qing dynasty robes.^[19] Critics contended this framework perpetuated Edward Said's concept of orientalism by framing China as an exotic, timeless fantasy through a predominantly Western lens, emphasizing romanticized motifs like dragons and silk without substantial representation of modern Chinese designers or political context.^[6] ^[59] For instance, the exhibit included fewer than 10 pieces from Chinese designers amid hundreds from European houses, which reviewers argued reinforced reductive stereotypes of China as a decorative muse rather than a dynamic cultural producer.^[7] Cultural representation concerns extended to the exhibition's narrative, which Bolton described as a "love letter" to China's influence on fashion but was faulted for lacking self-reflexivity about power imbalances in global design, such as the historical opium trade's role in accessing Chinese textiles—referenced obliquely through displayed artifacts without critique.^[59] Chinese-American commentators highlighted how the display's dim lighting and ethereal presentation evoked a mystical "Orient," sidelining contemporary realities like China's booming domestic fashion sector, valued at over $300 billion by 2015, and contributing to perceptions of cultural erasure. ^[60] The documentary amplified these debates by foregrounding the event's production glamour—featuring Anna Wintour's involvement and celebrity preparations—while minimally interrogating representational flaws, leading some analysts to view it as complicit in normalizing an uncritical Western gaze on non-Western cultures.^[61] Attendees at the May 4, 2015, Met Gala, themed accordingly, faced backlash for outfits incorporating stereotypical elements like chopsticks as hair accessories or mismatched qipaos, interpreted as superficial appropriations detached from cultural specificity.^[62] Despite defenses framing the exhibit as an intentional homage to fantasy rather than historical accuracy, these critiques underscored broader institutional tendencies in Western museums to commodify Eastern heritage for aesthetic appeal, with attendance exceeding 750,000 visitors signaling commercial success amid the controversy.^[63]^[19]

Responses to Appropriation Allegations

Curator Andrew Bolton, who organized the "China: Through the Looking Glass" exhibition featured in the documentary, addressed appropriation concerns by stating that the show was not a depiction of real China but an examination of the Western "collective fantasy" of it, shaped by fashion and cinema.^[64]^[19] He explained that many designers derive inspiration from a fictionalized version of China as a Western construct, noting, "I think a lot of designers are not inspired by the real China—they’re inspired by this fictional China that just really exists as a Western fantasy."^[65] Bolton defended the inclusion of stereotypical elements by arguing that the exhibition confronted them head-on, such as through displays of racial tropes in films like Daughter of the Dragon and Shanghai Express, rather than concealing historical influences.^[65] In response to criticism from Chinese media, Bolton upheld designers' right to draw from cultural motifs, describing it as their "prerogative," and emphasized fashion's traditional function to "provoke and confront," which he viewed as diminished in modern Western practice.^[54] The exhibition incorporated signage acknowledging designers' focus on aesthetics over cultural or political context, as well as inherent power dynamics in Western interpretations of Eastern elements.^[19] Co-curator Wong Kar-wai supported this by asserting that the show embraced historic depictions without evasion, as they constituted verifiable facts of past representations.^[19] The Metropolitan Museum framed the exhibit as an overt study of Orientalism, explicitly stating that the portrayed China involved "invention and imagination" rather than authenticity, with stylistic elements tied to Western practices of misrepresentation.^[66] Bolton's process, as depicted in The First Monday in May, demonstrated efforts to navigate sensitivities, including consultations to align Western fantasy with respectful curation amid expected controversy.^[54] These responses positioned the project as analytical homage to cross-cultural influences, prioritizing historical critique over literal replication.^[65]

Impact and Legacy

Influence on Fashion and Museums

The documentary illuminated the collaborative dynamics between curators, designers, and institutions in mounting blockbuster fashion exhibitions, exemplified by the 2015 "China: Through the Looking Glass" show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute, which attracted over 800,000 visitors and established a record for attendance in the institute's history.^[67]^[1] This portrayal of meticulous curation, including loans of rare artifacts like Qing dynasty robes and Yves Saint Laurent gowns inspired by Chinese motifs, underscored the scholarly rigor required to position fashion within an artistic and historical context, prompting museums to refine their approaches to interdisciplinary displays that integrate textiles with fine art.^[68] In the fashion sector, the film highlighted how Met Gala themes serve as trend catalysts, with the 2015 exhibition's emphasis on Chinese aesthetics influencing subsequent collections by designers such as John Galliano and Anna Sui, who drew from Eastern-Western hybrid motifs in their work.^[32] By documenting celebrity consultations and garment selections—featuring figures like Rihanna in Guo Pei—the documentary revealed the event's role in commercializing high fashion, where red-carpet looks often translate to retail adaptations, thereby amplifying the institute's sway over global design directions.^[54] For museums, "The First Monday in May" exposed the economic underpinnings of fashion programming, illustrating how the Costume Institute's annual benefit generates substantial revenue—exceeding $175 million cumulatively for the Met Gala series—to fund acquisitions and operations, a model that has encouraged other institutions, such as the Victoria and Albert Museum, to pursue similar high-profile collaborations with luxury brands.^[56] The film's depiction of tensions between artistic integrity and spectacle further informed curatorial strategies, emphasizing the need for thematic depth to legitimize fashion exhibitions amid critiques of commodification.^[14]

Economic and Cultural Outcomes

The Met Gala, held annually on the first Monday in May, generates substantial revenue for the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute, funding exhibitions, acquisitions, and operations. In 2025, the event raised a record $31 million through individual tickets priced at $75,000 and tables costing over $350,000, surpassing the previous year's $26 million and marking the highest total in the gala's 77-year history.^[69]^[70] This fundraising efficiency yields approximately $4 in proceeds for every dollar spent on the event, aligning with benchmarks for major urban galas, though costs include venue preparation and celebrity logistics borne by the museum.^[70] Beyond direct contributions, the gala stimulates broader economic activity in New York City, boosting sectors like hospitality, retail, and media. It drives tourism and hotel bookings during the event period, while corporate sponsorships from luxury brands such as Chanel and Fendi amplify visibility and sales for fashion houses. In 2024, the gala produced $995 million in media impact value across 115,919 placements within 48 hours, enhancing brand equity and consumer spending on couture and accessories featured on the red carpet.^[71] Small businesses, including stylists, jewelers, and local vendors, benefit from heightened demand, contributing to the event's role as a catalyst for the fashion ecosystem's annual revenue cycles.^[72] Culturally, the first Monday in May has evolved into a global barometer of fashion innovation and societal shifts, blending high art with popular influences to shape trends and discourse. The gala's themed exhibitions, such as the 2025 focus on Black dandyism in "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," highlight underrepresented narratives in tailoring and style, fostering discussions on cultural heritage and identity within fashion.^[73] By convening designers, celebrities, and tastemakers, it democratizes access to elite couture via live broadcasts and social media, influencing consumer behavior and elevating emerging voices in an industry historically dominated by Western perspectives.^[74] This annual ritual also reinforces the Costume Institute's prestige, with proceeds enabling acquisitions like high-value garments that preserve fashion history for public education. Critics note its dual role in philanthropy and spectacle, yet its legacy lies in bridging museum curation with commercial viability, sustaining the intersection of art, commerce, and celebrity without diluting institutional standards.^[56] The event's cultural footprint extends to policy and representation debates, as seen in its adaptation to include diverse influencers, reflecting broader evolutions in gender expression and global aesthetics.^[74]

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Jan 8, 2015 · Wong Kar Wai discussed the role of film in the exhibition and showed a montage of the film clips that will be used in the exhibition to ...
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The First Monday in May: Doc has great access, but its themes are ...
Apr 22, 2016 · A documentary about the unholy alliance between New York's Metropolitan Museum, couturier fashion and Hollywood celebrities, The First ...Missing: central | Show results with:central
[28]
2016 TRIBECA FILM FESTIVAL® TO OPEN WITH ANDREW ...
Feb 22, 2016 · “The First Monday in May illuminates the debate between fine art, fashion, pop culture and captures the creativity, passion and visionaries ...Missing: themes | Show results with:themes
[29]
'The First Monday in May' Goes Behind the Scenes at Met Ball Drama
Apr 13, 2016 · First Monday in May, directed by Andrew Rossi, goes behind the scenes at the Costume Institute during preparations for last year's attendance record-breaking ...Missing: inception | Show results with:inception
[30]
The First Monday in May review – saucer-eyed fashion documentary
Sep 29, 2016 · This film certainly brings the star power, and I have to admit it creates a kind of woozy trance, but broken by irritation with the conceited ...Missing: reception | Show results with:reception
[31]
Tribeca Review: Documentary 'The First Monday in May' Explores ...
Apr 14, 2016 · Accompanied by muses wearing their designs, top-tier designers attend, as well as celebrities as wide-ranging as Miley Cyrus, George and Amal ...
[32]
Andrew Bolton Is The Heart Of 'The First Monday In May' Met Gala ...
Apr 19, 2016 · The film is chock full of Anna Wintour quips, intimate celebrity moments and the surprising drama of mounting a record-breaking exhibit.Missing: development | Show results with:development
[33]
The First Monday in May Review - Sarah G. Vincent Views
Andrew Bolton, the chief curator of the Costume Institute at the Met, works with Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of Vogue, on the gala. The First Monday in ...<|separator|>
[34]
Tribeca Film Festival Opening Night 2016: 'The First Monday in May'
Feb 22, 2016 · “The First Monday in May” will kick off this year's Tribeca Film Festival April 13. Produced by Fabiola Beracasa Beckman, Sylvana Ward Durrett, ...
[35]
The First Monday in May Premiere at the Tribeca Film Festival - Vogue
Apr 14, 2016 · The fashion industry's most revered event gets a star-studded premiere for its debut of The First Monday in May.
[36]
Film Review: 'First Monday in May' - Variety
Apr 13, 2016 · Running time: 91 MIN. Production: (Documentary) A Magnolia Pictures release of a Relativity Studios, Planted Projects presentation, in ...Missing: distribution | Show results with:distribution<|separator|>
[37]
'The First Monday in May': Tribeca Review - The Hollywood Reporter
Apr 13, 2016 · Venue: Tribeca Film Festival Distributor: Magnolia Pictures Production companies: Magnolia Pictures, Relativity Studios, Planned Projects in ...
[38]
First Monday in May | A Magnolia Pictures Film | Directed by Andrew ...
The First Monday in May follows the creation of The Metropolitan Museum of Art's most attended fashion exhibition in history, China: Through The Looking ...Missing: production | Show results with:production
[39]
Anna Wintour Adds to Her Body of Film Work - The New York Times
Apr 14, 2016 · The latest example is “The First Monday in May,” a documentary directed by Andrew Rossi, which opened the Tribeca Film Festival on Wednesday ...<|control11|><|separator|>
[40]
The First Monday in May - Official Trailer - YouTube
Feb 24, 2016 · The First Monday in May Official Trailer 1 (2016) - Documentary HD ... Met Gala Q&A. Star Sessions•13K views · 5:25. Go to channel · Inside ...
[41]
Vogue teases new documentary 'The First Monday In May ...
Vogue teases new documentary 'The First Monday In May' ... Vogue has released the first trailer for its upcoming fashion documentary "The First Monday In May".<|separator|>
[42]
The First Monday in May - Official Clip - Anna Wintour's Mat Gala ...
Jun 26, 2025 · Each year, on the first Monday in May, The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York opens its doors to host the biggest event on the fashion ...
[43]
How Vogue Monetises the Met Gala | BoF - The Business of Fashion
May 2, 2022 · The 2016 documentary, “The First Monday in May,” which covered 2015′s Met Gala, was only a modest success, generating just over $1 million ...
[44]
The First Monday in May Reviews - Metacritic
Rating 57% (19) The First Monday in May. Metascore Mixed or Average Based on 19 Critic Reviews. 57.Missing: Rotten Tomatoes
[45]
Mini Review - The First Monday In May - The Film Pie
The First Monday In May (out May 12) is a superb documentary that follows the creation of a fashion exhibit at the Metropolitan ... Follow Matt on Twitter ...Missing: Metacritic | Show results with:Metacritic
[46]
'The First Monday in May' Review: Intriguing but Ultimately Vapid
Apr 21, 2016 · Ultimately, 'The First Monday in May' is a nice documentary with some genuinely intriguing moments, characters and themes, but the effective ...Missing: positive negative
[47]
The First Monday in May | Reviews - Rotten Tomatoes
Rotten score. The First Monday in May is gorgeous, sumptuous. It's also undercooked. Full Review | Original Score: 6/10 | Dec 28, ...Missing: Metacritic | Show results with:Metacritic
[48]
Domestic Box Office For May 2016
The First Monday in May, -, -, -, $186,030, 45, $527,474, Apr 15, Magnolia Pictures, false. 55, The Lady in the Van, -, -, -, $165,411, 602, $10,021,175, Dec 4 ...
[49]
Domestic Box Office Performance for Documentary Movies in 2016
The First Monday in May · Apr 15, 2016 · Magnolia Pictures · PG-13, $527,474, 60,979. 19, Galapagos · Oct 29, 1999 · IMAX Films · Not Rated, $463,537, 53,588.
[50]
'Green Room' Thrills; 'First Monday In May' Slow: Specialty Box Office
Apr 17, 2016 · Over the weekend the feature grossed $795,600 in 650 theaters, averaging $1,224. The film is nearing $11M. NEW RELEASES. The First Monday In May ...
[51]
The First Monday In May (2016) UK, US and Global Gross
The First Monday In May. 9072. Kadhalikka Neramillai. Not a top US grossing movie. Not a top Global grossing movie. Genres. Documentary. 25thframe.co.uk logo.The First Monday In May · Box Office Quickview · Chart Position History
[52]
The First Monday in May (2016) - User reviews - IMDb
It was really an eye opener into excess, narcissism and a kind of professional, daily misery. I felt a little ill after watching it. The excesses of preening, ...Missing: positive negative
[53]
The First Monday in May | Where to watch streaming and ... - Flicks
The First Monday in May | Ratings & Reviews · 77 %60 reviews. Rotten Tomatoes® rating · 69 %1,853 reviews. Audience score rating.
[54]
Andrew Bolton, Star of The First Monday in May, Thinks It’s Time to Stop Asking If Fashion Is Art
### Summary of Andrew Bolton's Comments and Related Content
[55]
The First Monday in May Opens the Tribeca Film Festival - Vogue
Apr 14, 2016 · The fashion industry's most revered event gets an equally star-studded premiere for its documentary debut ... The First Monday in May, which was ...Missing: reception | Show results with:reception
[56]
Met Gala History and Impact - Fashion Index
Anna Wintour will be one of the Met Gala's hosts for the event. There will be four co-chairs this year: Dua Lipa, Michaela Coel, Penélope Cruz, and Roger ...<|separator|>
[57]
Is Fashion Art? - The Brooklyn Rail
The exhibition of fashion in museums has undoubtedly contributed to blurring the line between art and fashion, especially with regard to haute couture and avant ...
[58]
Fashion in the Space of the Museum: Historical Artefact, Art or ...
May 21, 2020 · This dissertation analyses the underlying causes of developments in museums regarding the display of more recent fashion, exposing classism in art.
[59]
China: Through the Looking Glass - CAA Reviews
Nov 2, 2016 · The lack of self-reflexivity concerning the role of the museum—to consider how China: Through the Looking Glass, with its delivery of reductive ...
[60]
China Through the Looking Glass | 上り口説 Nubui Kuduchi
Aug 25, 2015 · What is China: Through the Looking Glass? What did the museum do right, where did they go wrong, and what could they have done better? Fashions ...<|separator|>
[61]
Orientalism Is Alive And Well In American Cinema - BuzzFeed News
Apr 4, 2018 · ... The First Monday in May, Andrew Rossi's 2016 documentary about the eight-month ramp-up to the exhibit opening and the accompanying Met Gala.
[62]
Chopsticks in Your Hair: Cultural Appropriation at the Met Gala
May 19, 2015 · The Costume Institute was careful to say that “China: Through the Looking Glass” was not an exhibition about Chinese couture, but rather the ...<|separator|>
[63]
The 2015 Met Gala Wasn't An Orientalist Mess — But "China - Bustle
"China: Through the Looking Glass" — reeks of orientalism, ...
[64]
It's fashionable, but does Met Gala's China theme make a fantasy of ...
May 5, 2015 · “The show is not about China, per se,” said Andrew Bolton, curator of the Costume Institute, the branch of the Met for which the gala is an ...
[65]
The Met's Andrew Bolton on Fashion's China Fixation and Fantasy
In an exclusive interview, the Costume Institute's curator talks to Jing Daily about the main ideas behind the Met's new "China: Through the Looking Glass" ...
[66]
Met Gala China Through The Looking Glass Orientalism - Refinery29
May 4, 2015 · But, "China: Through the Looking-Glass" (its vastly improved title) is not about China, Chinese fashion, or Chinese fashion designers, and the ...
[67]
Met Gala Doc 'The First Monday in May': The Juiciest Revelations
Apr 14, 2016 · From Rihanna's exorbitant budget to Anna Wintour's fierce loyalty to H&M, here is 'The First Monday in May's' dishiest details.Missing: campaign | Show results with:campaign
[68]
Review of The First Monday in May, Documentary About the Met Gala
Apr 13, 2016 · This behind-the-scenes procedural is a celebration of the 2015 gala and the smash show, “China: Through the Looking Glass,” that was its inspiration.Missing: reception | Show results with:reception
[69]
Met Gala Breaks Record with $31 Million Raised - WWD
May 5, 2025 · This year's annual fundraiser for the Costume Institute is a record-breaker at $31 million. That was “quite a jump” compared to last year's total of $26 ...
[70]
Met Gala Raises the Bar With a Record Haul of $31 Million
May 6, 2025 · Roughly put, the Met Gala raises $4 for every dollar spent. That ratio is roughly in line with other major city galas, according to tax ...
[71]
The Met Gala Economy Glitters, but Is It Gold? - WWD
May 6, 2024 · Last year the Met Gala generated $995 million in just 48 hours in Media Impact Value over a total of 115,919 placements, according to ...
[72]
The Met Gala & its Effects on the Economy - The Invisible Hand
May 23, 2024 · The economic impact of the Met Gala ranges from fashion, tourism, educational outreach, small businesses, media, amplifying its cultural influence.
[73]
"The Blackest Met Gala Ever": The Cultural Impact & History Behind ...
May 6, 2025 · Fashion insiders know the drill: the first Monday in May is reserved for the Met Gala, when A-listers floods the steps of The Met for the ...
[74]
The Met Gala – From Fundraiser to Fashion's Biggest Night
Jun 4, 2025 · Its original purpose was to support the newly established Costume Institute and champion fashion as an art form worthy of museum recognition.Missing: debate | Show results with:debate