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Drawknife

A drawknife, also known as a drawing knife or draw shave, is a traditional woodworking hand tool designed to shape wood by removing thin shavings through a pulling action toward the user. It features a narrow, straight or slightly curved blade, typically 6 to 14 inches (15 to 36 cm) long, with a wooden handle attached tangentially at each end to allow for a secure two-handed grip while the user straddles the workpiece or works at a bench.^[1]^[2] The drawknife traces its origins to the ancient Roman era.^[3] Its design evolved minimally over time, remaining a staple in woodworking inventories by the 17th century, as documented in colonial American records such as the 1709 shop of Virginia carpenter John Crost.^[4] By the 19th century, American manufacturers like E. Mills and Company produced high-quality woodworking tools, earning recognition at the 1876 Centennial Exhibition for their craftsmanship.^[5] In practice, the drawknife excels at rapid material removal for rough shaping, debarking logs, rounding edges, and chamfering, making it essential for tasks like thinning timber or forming complex curves in barrel staves and chair components.^[2]^[6]^[7] Coopers historically relied on it at shaving benches to transform rough wood blocks into uniform staves for watertight containers, while modern woodworkers pair it with a shaving horse or vise for precise control in green wood crafting, spoon carving, and furniture making.^[7]^[8] Despite the rise of power tools, the drawknife persists in traditional and artisanal woodworking for its versatility and the skill it demands.^[8]

History

Origins

The earliest evidence of the drawknife as a woodworking tool dates to Roman times, with archaeological finds including iron blades from sites in Britain and Italy. These artifacts, such as U-shaped iron draw-knives with tangs for attaching handles, have been recovered from Romano-British contexts dating to the 1st century AD, indicating their use for shaping wood in early imperial workshops.^[9]^[3] Some examples appear as handle-less blades due to the perishable nature of wooden grips, but the design suggests they were pulled toward the user to remove shavings from timber.^[9] In the Viking era, more complete handled versions of the drawknife emerged, as evidenced by tools in the Mästermyr chest discovered on the Swedish island of Gotland and dated to around 1000 AD. This Viking Age toolkit, preserved in a bog, included inshaves—a variant of the drawknife with a curved blade for hollowing wood—alongside other iron implements for carpentry and blacksmithing.^[10] Similar early handled drawknives, with blades measuring 30-40 cm, were unearthed in Novgorod excavations in Russia, dating to the 10th century onwards, where they were employed in medieval woodworking tasks like timber preparation.^[11] Pre-European indigenous cultures in North America developed analogous tools that evolved into the crooked knife, a one-handed drawknife variant used by woodland tribes for crafting birchbark canoes and snowshoes. These originated from Stone Age sharpened rocks and animal teeth, such as beaver incisors lashed to handles, which were later adapted with metal blades after European contact but retained their traditional form for precise wood carving.^[12]^[13] The first recorded English term for the tool, "drawing knife," appears in 1583 documentation, reflecting its role in woodworking inventories.^[14] By 1679, detailed descriptions highlighted its application in timber dressing, where the blade was drawn across logs to square and smooth surfaces for construction.^[15]

Historical development

During the medieval period in Europe, particularly from the 12th to 15th centuries, the drawknife was a staple tool for shaping timber in furniture production. Archaeological evidence from sites like 16–22 Coppergate in York indicates drawknife use in medieval woodworking, including possible tool marks on artifacts such as wedges and staves for refining surfaces along the grain.^[16] References to tool kits like the Mästermyr chest (c. 1000 AD) underscore its integration into woodworkers' assemblages for various trades.^[16] In the 17th and 18th centuries, refinements to the drawknife emerged through the introduction of European iron, which transformed indigenous woodworking tools across North America. Among the Cree, the muuhkutaakan—or crooked knife—a one-handed variant used for carving and shaping, evolved significantly after European fishermen traded iron blades, replacing stone and bone materials and enabling more durable, curved tips for precision work.^[17] Hudson’s Bay Company records from 1748 list the "mocotaugan" (a related term) as a trade good, reflecting its adaptation 60 years after their 1688 establishment at Rupert House, where Natives recycled iron from files and pots into custom blades.^[17] This iron integration revolutionized tools like the crooked knife for tasks in canoe rib shaping and snowshoe construction, blending European metallurgy with traditional designs.^[18] The 19th century marked the advent of mass production for drawknives in America and Europe, standardizing sizes for specialized trades like chair-making and cooperage. American edge-tool makers, such as Oliver Sawyer of Bolton, Massachusetts (active 1784–1836), produced cast-steel drawknives, including curved variants with 9⅜-inch blades for tapering barrel staves in cooperage.^[19] In chair-making, particularly in the Appalachian South, craftsmen employed drawknives to refine hatchet-roughed posts, rungs, and slats into tapered, ergonomic forms, with standardized lengths (e.g., 8–12 inches) facilitating efficient production in workshops.^[20] European manufacturers followed suit, supplying consistent sizes for barrel chamfering and stave edging, as evidenced by tool catalogs and guild-influenced designs that supported industrial-scale woodworking.^[21] By the early 20th century, the drawknife declined in mainstream use due to the rise of power tools and industrialized lumber processing, which favored kiln-dried wood and mechanized shaping over hand-riven green timber.^[22] However, a revival occurred in the mid-20th century among folk craftsmen and green woodworkers, who rediscovered its utility in traditional techniques like chair bodging and bowl turning, preserving coppice-based methods amid a broader interest in sustainable, hand-tool crafts.^[23]

Design

Blade

The blade of a drawknife serves as the primary cutting element, typically forged from high-carbon steel such as O1 tool steel and hardened to a Rockwell scale of 60-62 for durability and edge retention.^[24] Standard blade lengths range from 4 to 14 inches, accommodating various scales of work from fine shaping to rough stock removal on logs, while widths generally measure 1 to 2 inches to balance control and cutting capacity.^[25]^[26] These dimensions allow the blade to feature straight or slightly curved profiles along its length, with straight edges enabling even planing on flat surfaces and subtle curves facilitating deeper cuts or contouring.^[27] Most drawknives employ a single-bevel design, with the bevel ground on one side at an angle of 25 to 30 degrees to promote efficient wood removal while the opposite flat side glides smoothly against the workpiece, reducing tear-out and aiding precision.^[24]^[27] This asymmetric bevel configuration enhances the tool's versatility for pull strokes, where the user draws the blade toward themselves. Edge geometry varies to suit specific tasks: straight edges excel in flat planing and dimensioning, convex edges support rounding and shaping cylindrical forms like tool handles, and concave or gouge-like edges are ideal for hollowing bowls, seats, or other interior curves.^[27]^[28] The blade integrates with the handles via a tang construction, where the ends of the blade extend as tapered or straight tangs into the handle material, providing essential rigidity to withstand the lateral forces encountered during aggressive pull cuts.^[29] This extension ensures the blade remains stable, contributing to the overall balance when paired with ergonomically shaped handles.^[24]

Handles

The handles of a drawknife consist of two wooden components, typically crafted from durable hardwoods such as ash, maple, or beech, and measuring about 5 to 6 inches in length each to provide a comfortable reach during operation.^[30]^[24]^[31] These handles are mounted at angles ranging from 90 to 120 degrees relative to the blade, enabling an ergonomic pulling action that aligns the user's body with the cutting motion and reduces strain on the wrists and arms.^[28]^[32]^[24] The angle facilitates control over the blade's depth and direction, with narrower angles (around 90 degrees) common in traditional designs for straight pulls and wider spreads (up to 120 degrees) in some modern configurations to accommodate varied workpiece contours.^[28]^[33] Handle shapes vary to suit different tasks, with flat profiles offering enhanced precision for fine shaping and control, while bulbous or mushroom-like forms provide greater leverage and power for coarse operations like debarking logs.^[28]^[34] Flat handles, often octagonal or rectangular in cross-section, allow for a more neutral grip that minimizes slippage during detailed work, whereas bulbous designs, such as those in French-pattern drawknives, distribute force more evenly for heavy removal tasks.^[35]^[28] The choice of shape influences user interaction, as bulbous ends can reduce hand fatigue in prolonged rough cutting by allowing a looser, more relaxed hold.^[34] Attachment of the handles occurs through full tangs extending from the blade ends, which are heated and driven into pre-drilled or burned holes in the handle wood for a secure, friction-based fit.^[29]^[35] Traditional methods involve burning the tang into the wood with a torch to create a custom fit, followed by hammering the tang flush and often peening it over a washer or ferrule to lock it in place, ensuring durability under repeated stress.^[29] Wedges may be inserted at the tang's base to expand the wood and tighten the connection, promoting replaceability if the handles wear or break.^[35] Modern attachments sometimes use stainless steel nuts, ferrules, or screws for adjustability and easier maintenance, allowing users to reposition handles without reforging.^[24] In traditional "hock-style" designs, handles are fixed perpendicular to the blade for straightforward, high-torque pulls suited to historical woodworking practices, whereas contemporary versions often feature adjustable orientations to optimize grip angles for specific bevel-up or bevel-down techniques.^[33]^[24] This evolution enhances versatility, as users can fine-tune the setup based on task demands, such as tighter angles for precision carving or wider spreads for broad surfacing.^[33] The spacing between handles is generally matched to the blade length to preserve tool balance and prevent interference with the workpiece.^[36]

Usage

Basic operation

The drawknife is operated through a pull-stroke technique, in which the user grips the handles firmly and draws the blade toward the body in a controlled slicing motion, allowing for precise material removal from the wood.^[37] For optimal body position, the user typically stands straddling the workpiece or sits while using a shaving horse, enabling the engagement of arm, shoulder, back, and leg muscles to guide the tool effectively.^[37] ^[38] The handles are grasped with both hands, often with thumbs placed on the back of the blade near the handles for added control during the pull, though grip orientation can vary slightly based on the task and user preference.^[28] To execute the stroke, the blade is positioned at a slight angle to the wood surface—starting steeper for initial entry and leveling out as it progresses—to ensure clean cuts without binding, with the motion beginning near one hand and sweeping across the blade's length before lifting for the next pass.^[37] ^[27] The workpiece must be securely held in a shaving horse, vise, or clamp to prevent movement and rebound, which enhances control and safety during operation.^[38] ^[28] Cutting always proceeds with the grain direction to minimize tear-out and achieve smooth results, beginning with light, shallow passes to establish control before increasing depth.^[38] ^[28] Force is applied through the user's body weight and a steady pull rather than isolated arm strength, distributing the effort along the blade to avoid fatigue and ensure even shaving removal.^[37] This fundamental approach allows progression to more intricate shaping once basic control is mastered.

Shaping techniques

Shaping techniques with a drawknife involve specialized pull strokes tailored to the desired wood profile, building on fundamental pulling mechanics to achieve precise material removal. These methods allow woodworkers to create flat surfaces, rounded edges, hollowed interiors, or separated fibers, often resulting in finishes that require little additional refinement.^[27] For straight cuts, woodworkers employ long, even pulls with the bevel side up to flatten surfaces or dress timber, starting the stroke about 1 inch from the edge and sliding the blade sideways at a slight diagonal for cleaner shearing action. This technique produces thin shavings and a near-planed surface finish, minimizing the need for subsequent sanding, particularly when working with the grain on straight-grained woods like oak or ash. Bevel-down orientation can refine these cuts further with lighter, controlled strokes for smoother results.^[27] Convex shaping uses rolling, downhill pulls with a convex-edged blade to round edges, such as on chair legs or tool handles, beginning at the highest point of the curve and working toward the bottom to avoid uneven removal. Heavy cuts target corners first with a steep blade entry angle, transitioning to shallower pulls in the middle for balanced rounding; this method excels on green wood, where the blade can hog off material efficiently while maintaining the curve's flow. Skewing the blade during the pull enhances slicing control, preventing tear-out on figured grains.^[27] Concave hollowing employs short, scooping pulls with a gouge-style blade, bevel down, to form interiors like chair seats, bowls, or spoon cavities, lifting the handles slightly to pry out chips while pulling from both sides toward the curve's low point. This approach provides depth control and prevents over-removal, with lower entry angles for finer shavings in the final passes; it is particularly effective for hardwoods, yielding smooth hollows that follow the wood's natural contours.^[27] Splitting utilizes wedging actions by driving the blade into end grain with short, heavy yanking strokes, bevel down, and prying upward to separate wood fibers, ideal for rough stock preparation or creating kindling from logs. Tilting or flipping the tool adjusts the angle for controlled fiber separation, performing best on green wood where the blade can penetrate deeply without binding; this technique reduces waste compared to axes by allowing precise billet sizing.^[39]

Applications

Traditional uses

In traditional woodworking trades from the 17th to 19th centuries, the drawknife played a central role in preparing materials for construction and craftsmanship, particularly in rural and pre-industrial settings where hand tools were essential for shaping wood without machinery.^[40] One primary application was in shingle and clapboard production, where craftsmen used the drawknife to trim and taper wooden pieces split from logs, creating uniform roofing and siding materials for buildings. This process involved drawing the blade along the riven wood to smooth surfaces and achieve the desired thickness, a labor-intensive method common in colonial American and European construction before mechanized sawmills became widespread in the early 19th century.^[41] In chair and furniture making, especially within Windsor chair traditions originating in 18th-century England and America, the drawknife was employed to shape legs, seats, and rungs from green wood, allowing makers to quickly remove excess material and refine curves while the wood was still pliable. Similarly, in cooperage—the craft of barrel-making—coopers relied on the drawknife at a shaving horse to hollow and taper staves from oak or other hardwoods, ensuring the curved profiles needed for watertight assembly, a technique documented in 19th-century workshops.^[42]^[43] The tool was also vital for producing handles in rural workshops, where it rounded and tapered wooden blanks for axes, hammers, and agricultural implements like hoes and rakes, transforming rough-hewn stock into ergonomic grips suitable for lathe finishing or direct use. This application supported local economies by enabling small-scale manufacturing of essential farm tools throughout the 18th and 19th centuries.^[40] For bark removal and pole dressing, foresters and woodworkers applied the drawknife to strip bark from logs destined for fence posts, mast timbers for ships, and frames in indigenous crafts such as snowshoes, preventing rot and revealing clean heartwood for durability. In Native American traditions, variants like the one-handed crooked knife—a specialized drawknife—were used to shape ash or birch for snowshoe frames, a practice rooted in pre-colonial woodland cultures and continuing into the 19th century.^[44]^[45]

Modern uses

In the late 20th century, the drawknife experienced a resurgence through the green woodworking revival, particularly in chairmaking workshops inspired by the 1970s folk craft movement. This movement emphasized sustainable, hand-tool-based techniques using freshly cut timber, where the drawknife plays a key role in debarking logs and rough-shaping components like chair legs and spindles to prepare them for steam-bending and assembly. Jennie Alexander's influential 1978 book, Make a Chair from a Tree, documented these methods, highlighting the tool's efficiency in removing bark and initial stock from green wood while preserving the material's natural moisture for easier working.^[46] Workshops adopting this approach, such as those focused on Windsor-style chairs, continue to rely on the drawknife for its control in creating tapered and curved forms without power tools.^[47] Modern carvers employ specialized drawknives for one-handed pulls in producing culinary utensils, particularly spoons and bowls, allowing precise roughing out of concave shapes from green wood blanks. These smaller, often 4- to 6-inch bladed variants enable efficient material removal while seated at a shaving horse, transitioning smoothly to finer carving tools for detailing. For instance, the Gramercy Tools Spoonmaker's Drawknife, designed for such tasks, facilitates quick and accurate shaping of spoon bowls and handles, reducing fatigue in repetitive production.^[48] This application has gained popularity among hobbyists and professional utensil makers, who value the tool's ability to follow wood grain for clean cuts in hardwoods like cherry or maple. In artistic and sculptural woodworking, the drawknife enables the creation of fluid, curved forms in pieces like garden furniture and musical instrument bodies. Artisans use it to shape organic contours, such as arched backs for benches or violin plates, by pulling the blade across held workpieces to achieve smooth transitions from rough stock. Curved-blade models, like those from Fuchs, are favored in luthiery for refining arched surfaces on instrument tops and backs, providing leverage for subtle bevel adjustments.^[49] For garden furniture, the tool excels in debarking and profiling branches into ergonomic armrests or seat supports, as seen in permaculture-inspired designs that repurpose local timber.^[50] The drawknife's portability makes it a staple in survival and bushcraft scenarios, where it serves for field-processing firewood by stripping bark and squaring logs, or crafting shelters and tools in off-grid environments. Compact models, such as the Packable Drawknife, allow users to shape tent pegs, traps, or utensils from foraged materials without fixed benches, emphasizing its role in self-reliant woodland skills.^[51] In these contexts, the tool's pull-stroke design enhances safety and control when working handheld branches, supporting extended expeditions.^[52]

Drawknife variations

Drawknives exhibit a range of variations tailored to specific woodworking tasks, primarily differing in blade size, shape, and bevel configuration to enhance precision or efficiency.^[53]^[37] Size variations allow for adaptation to the scale of work, with shorter blades typically measuring 6 to 10 inches suited for fine carving and detailed shaping, such as crafting small components or refining contours where control is paramount.^[54]^[37] In contrast, longer blades from 18 to 24 inches are designed for heavy debarking and rough stock removal, providing greater leverage and material coverage on larger logs or beams.^[28]^[37] Blade shape further diversifies the tool's application, with straight blades facilitating flat, even work like planing surfaces or straightening edges, while curved blades enable deeper hollows and scooping actions optimized for concave profiles.^[55]^[56] Specialized forms include the spoonmaker's drawknife, featuring a compact hooked blade ideal for carving bowl interiors and spoon cavities, offering enhanced maneuverability in tight spaces.^[48] The inshave, another variant, employs an inward-curved blade to address inside curves on barrels or similar cylindrical objects, allowing precise hollowing without marring adjacent surfaces.^[53]^[56] Bevel adaptations enhance versatility, such as reversible double-bevel designs that support ambidextrous use by allowing sharpening and operation from either side, reducing the need for multiple tools.^[57] Additionally, scorped edges with radiused bevels promote smoother rounding operations, minimizing chatter and producing more uniform curves on rounded stock.^[53]^[57]

Similar tools

The spokeshave is a smaller hand tool used for refining curved surfaces in woodworking, often employed after initial shaping with larger tools like the drawknife. Unlike the drawknife's broad blade and two-handed pull for aggressive stock removal, the spokeshave features a compact blade—typically 2 to 3 inches long—bedded in a sole that can be pushed or pulled, allowing for greater precision in finishing contours such as chair legs or bow staves. Many spokeshaves include an adjustable mouth to control shaving thickness, enabling fine adjustments for smooth, even results on irregular shapes, which contrasts with the drawknife's fixed bevel and reliance on user technique for depth control.^[37]^[58] The crooked knife, also known as the mocotaugan, is a traditional one-handed carving tool originating from Indigenous North American and Inuit cultures, designed for detailed woodwork such as hollowing and shaping birch bark canoes, snowshoes, and utensils. Its hooked or bent blade—often 2 to 4 inches long—allows pulling strokes toward the user for intricate cuts in tight spaces, differing from the drawknife's straight, two-handed blade that provides greater leverage and power for broader material removal. This makes the crooked knife ideal for precision tasks like relief carving or spoon hollowing, where the drawknife's size would be unwieldy.^[18]^[59] A splitting froe, or simply froe, is an L-shaped cleaving tool used to rive (split) wood along the grain into planks or shingles, typically by inserting the blade into the log end and striking the handle with a mallet to drive the split. In contrast to the drawknife's slicing pull action for shaping surfaces, the froe acts as a wedge for controlled separation without cutting across fibers, preserving wood strength for applications like basketry or timber framing; it lacks a sharpened edge for shaving and requires a separate tool, often a drawknife, for subsequent smoothing.^[60]^[61] The draw rasp or Surform tool serves as a coarse filing alternative for rapid roughing out of wood shapes, featuring perforated or toothed blades that shave material in a push or pull motion similar to the drawknife but with less cutting aggression. While the drawknife produces clean, sliced shavings for precise contours, the Surform removes smaller amounts of stock more controllably, making it suitable for beginners or quick prototyping on irregular forms like furniture components, though it leaves a rougher surface requiring further refinement.^[62]

Safety and maintenance

Safe handling

Proper handling of a drawknife begins with a secure two-handed grip and stable stance to maintain control and minimize injury risk. The tool should be held firmly by the handles with both hands, typically positioning the non-dominant hand on the leading (control) handle to guide the blade while the dominant hand provides pulling power, allowing for precise adjustments during the draw.^[37]^[63] Feet should be positioned shoulder-width apart for balance, with knees slightly bent to brace against potential kickback from the blade catching in the wood, engaging the core and back muscles to distribute force safely rather than relying solely on arm strength.^[64]^[28] Securing the workpiece is essential to prevent slips that could lead to loss of control. The wood must always be firmly clamped in a shaving horse, vise, or similar device to hold it steady during operation, avoiding freehand use on unstable surfaces which increases the danger of the material shifting unexpectedly.^[64]^[28]^[65] Common hazards include blade rebound when encountering knots or dense grain, which can cause the tool to jerk unexpectedly, and finger lacerations from maintaining an improper blade angle that allows slippage toward the hands. To mitigate these, users should wear cut-resistant gloves and eye protection to guard against flying chips and debris, and beginners are advised to practice on soft, straight-grained wood to build familiarity before tackling harder materials.^[64]^[28]^[63] In case of injury, apply immediate direct pressure to any cuts to control bleeding and seek medical attention if the wound is deep or shows signs of infection. For prevention beyond use, store the drawknife with the blade sheathed in leather or covered to avoid accidental contact with the edge, preferably hanging by the handles in a dry location away from pathways.^[64]^[28]^[37]

Sharpening and care

Maintaining the sharpness of a drawknife's blade is essential for effective performance and longevity, beginning with flattening the back of the blade on a coarse stone to ensure a smooth, even surface that supports clean cuts. This step removes any high spots or imperfections, typically using a diamond stone or waterstone with light pressure while keeping the blade flat against the abrasive surface. Once the back is prepared, the bevel is honed at an angle of 25-30 degrees, which provides durability for woodworking tasks; for bevel-down drawknives, experts recommend 28 degrees to balance edge retention and cutting efficiency. Honing can be achieved with a whetstone, starting coarse and progressing to finer grits, or a belt sander for initial shaping, followed by a leather strop charged with polishing compound to refine the edge to a razor-like finish. Sharpening should occur regularly to prevent edge damage, ideally after 30-60 minutes of continuous use or whenever the blade begins to roll or produce tearing rather than clean shavings; a simple test for readiness is to gently draw the edge across arm hair, which should shave it cleanly without pulling if properly honed. Frequent light touch-ups with a fine stone or strop during sessions maintain performance without excessive material removal, saving time compared to infrequent heavy grinding. Wooden handles require periodic inspection for loose tangs, as wood shrinkage can cause play over time; if detected, the handle can be removed and re-secured by inserting an oak wedge into the tang slot to expand the fit snugly, ensuring stability during pulls. To prevent cracking from dryness, apply boiled linseed oil or mineral oil to the handles every few months, rubbing it in thoroughly and allowing it to soak before wiping off excess, which preserves the wood's moisture balance and grip. For storage, hang the drawknife by its handles in a dry area to avoid pressure on the blade, or use a leather sheath to protect the edge; after each use, wipe the blade dry with a cloth and coat it lightly with machine oil or camellia oil to repel moisture and inhibit rust formation, particularly important for carbon steel blades in humid environments.

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[38]
Making Roof Shingles With Hand Tools - Traditional Crafts of Romania
At that stage, the carpenter uses the draw knife to smooth the shingles and straighten out any irregularities to ensure that they would lie flat. An inclined ...
[39]
Video series: How to make a continuous arm Windsor chair
It covers splitting the parts with a froe, shaping the parts with a drawknife and spokeshave, bending the arm, turning the legs, carving the seat and boring the ...
[40]
Cooper's Tools - Madison County Historical Society
After riving the staves from a plank with a froe, the cooper sat at the shaving horse and used his drawknife to shape the staves. froe and drawknife Left: Froe ...
[41]
Bark Spuds - 0523-2810-MTDC: Handtools for Trail Work
Drawknives work best to peel dry logs. A standard drawknife has an 8- to 10-inch blade with perpendicular handles at each end and is 4 to 5 inches long.
[42]
The Crooked Knife - EarthSea Interpretations
The crooked knife is a one handed draw-knife designed aeons ago, originally using flint instead of steel, by aboriginal people in what is now Canada.
[43]
https://madcohistory.org/online-exhibits/farming-in-madison-county-before-1900-introduction/coopers-tools/
[44]
Green woodworking - Heritage Crafts
Not until the 1980s did green woodworking experience a revival in the UK, inspiring the process of relearning this largely forgotten skill. Jennie Alexander's ...
[45]
Gramercy Tools Spoonmaker's Drawknife
180-day returnsEach handle is attached and detached from the draw knife with a single screw. For more information and instruction on making the handles please download the PDF ...
[46]
Drawknife, Fuchs brand, curved model ($50+shipping) - Maestronet
May 1, 2022 · Some items are not exclusive to lutherie, but all are high quality tools from a professional violin shop that operated during the 1990s. Edge ...
[47]
https://www.heritagecrafts.org.uk/craft/green-woodworking/
[48]
https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/GT-SDK.XX
[49]
Improvising a Drawknife from your Bushcraft knife.
Use a tick-shaped branch, trim the fork, carve a groove through the handle, and clamp the knife in the groove to use it as a drawknife.
[50]
Drawknife & Spokeshave Basics for Woodworking
Mar 19, 2024 · An 8″ to 10″ knife is the right size for most work. When choosing a knife, don't be tempted by the ones with folding handles. They look nice, ...These Once-Standard Tools... · Get A Grip On Your Drawknife · Spokeshave
[51]
The Drawknife | Andy Glenn - Highland Woodworking
8" and 10" are the most common, and more versatile for furniture related work. There are larger or smaller ones, but those typically have a more specialized use ...
[52]
Difference Between Straight and Curved Draw Knives? - Rockler
1–2 day delivery 90-day returnsFeb 1, 2021 · Generally, a curved knife for me will do deeper cuts or bark removal easier than a straight blade. Both will work.
[53]
Best Drawknife for Woodworking: Reviews and Guide
Jul 26, 2023 · Inshave Drawknife: An inshave drawknife has a curved blade with the bevel on the inside of the curve. This design makes it ideal for ...
[54]
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/handtools/the-drawknife-hand-tool.html
[55]
https://www.rockler.com/learn/difference-between-straight-curved-draw-knives
[56]
Fine & Fancy Pierced & Chip Carved Native American Crooked Knife
The crooked knife was used in the wilderness as a lightweight one handed drawknife. A tool that could accomplish almost any woodworking need. These knives were ...Missing: traditional indigenous
[57]
Meet the Froe! - Forgotten Skillz
May 24, 2023 · Dating back at least five thousand years, the froe's origins can be traced to ancient Egypt, where it was called a “fres.” Over time, it evolved ...
[58]
Guildenstern the broken drawknife - The Company of the Staple
Oct 9, 2018 · The moral of this tale is an important one: A froe is not a drawknife and, in its turn, a drawknife is not a froe. It seems an obvious lesson, ...
[59]
Surform tools - AFT Fasteners
4.7 1.2K · Free delivery over $200In woodworking surforms rapidly remove wood, but remove less wood than a draw knife and are easier to control. Surform are used in automobile repair shops to ...
[60]
How To Use Drawknives - BLADE Magazine
May 25, 2022 · In the case of the drawknife, it is designed for woodworking. ... For safety's sake, keep your elbows in tight. As you draw the knife back ...Drawknives Are A... · What Is A Drawknife? · Types Of Drawknifes
[61]
https://companyofthestaple.org.au/guildenstern-the-broken-drawknife/
[62]
Draw_knife – Jimmie Hinze: Construction Safety
Draw_knife (Download). Draw knife safety 1 Draw knife T raditional woodworking hand tool used to shape wood by removing shavings.<|control11|><|separator|>