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Gabriela Hearst

Gabriela Hearst is a Uruguayan-born luxury fashion designer and founder of her eponymous womenswear and accessories brand, launched in in 2015 with an emphasis on durable, responsibly sourced materials inspired by her ranch upbringing. Raised on her family's 17,000-acre Santa Isabel ranch in , , where she learned traditions amid and horsemanship from a seventh-generation ranching , Hearst attended the British School in before studying abroad and entering the fashion industry. Her designs draw from this heritage, prioritizing natural fibers like from regenerative farms and avoiding synthetics to extend garment lifespans, as evidenced by initiatives such as carbon-neutral shows and plastic-free flagship stores. In 2020, Hearst received the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award, recognizing her brand's commercial success and material innovation, followed by her appointment as of , the first such role for a at a major Paris house, which she held until 2023. Married to , a principal at the Hearst Corporation, she has maintained operational independence for her label while supporting in education and environmental conservation through traceable investments.

Background

Early life

Gabriela Hearst was born Gabriela Perezutti in 1976 in to a family of ranchers spanning six generations. Her family's operations centered on the ranch, a 17,000-acre property in the region dedicated to sheep, cattle, and horse breeding. This heritage involved traditional land stewardship practices, including production from sheep, which her family had managed for over a century. Hearst spent her childhood immersed in the ranch's daily operations, developing practical skills through direct involvement in rural activities. She engaged in gaucho traditions, including horsemanship from an early age—recalling no distinct memory of learning to ride, as it was integral to life on the property—and assisted in herding cattle alongside ranch hands. These experiences fostered a foundational emphasis on self-reliance and functionality, shaped by the demands of maintaining livestock and land in a remote, resource-constrained environment. The ranch's focus on durable, purpose-built tools and materials contrasted sharply with transient urban influences, embedding an appreciation for longevity and utility in her formative years.

Education and initial influences

Hearst attended the British School in during her early education. She subsequently studied communications at the Universidad ORT , completing her formal academic training there without pursuing specialized degrees in art, design, or fashion. Lacking extensive institutional schooling, Hearst developed her creative foundations through self-directed immersion in her family's ranching heritage, particularly the handling of merino wool from their 17,000-acre Santa Isabel estate in , , where her lineage spanned six generations of livestock management. This hands-on exposure to production and instilled practical skills in material durability and craftsmanship, driven by the ranch's remote, resource-constrained rather than elite academic pipelines. Early travels, including modeling stints in Paris and Milan following her studies, introduced global market dynamics and international aesthetics, blending Uruguay's vernacular wool traditions with broader influences on form and utility. These experiences underscored economic imperatives—such as maximizing limited materials for longevity—over abstract ideation, fostering a design ethos rooted in tangible utility amid familial trade necessities.

Professional career

Founding of the Gabriela Hearst label

Gabriela Hearst established her eponymous label in Fall 2015 in , introducing a and accessories collection for women and men that drew directly from her Uruguayan upbringing on the family's 17,000-acre Santa Isabel ranch in . The launch followed over a decade of experience in the city and reflected a deliberate shift toward honoring her heritage of ranch-based craftsmanship, with initial offerings centered on timeless garments prioritizing durability and detail over seasonal trends. Early collections featured high-quality, limited-production pieces, including suiting and knits made from traceable shorn from the family's sheep, which had previously been wholesaled but was integrated into the upon her husband Austin Hearst's suggestion to align with its ethos. This sourcing from the sixth-generation , managed under responsible practices overseen by Gabriela Hearst and ranch Sebastián Forti, emphasized ethical and , enabling profitability through rather than high-volume output in a fashion industry prone to rapid cycles. The label secured the International Woolmark Prize in 2016/17 for its innovative use of such materials in original designs. Funded initially through seed investment from Austin Hearst, who served as co-founder, the brand pursued controlled scaling as a niche player, focusing on uncompromising quality to attract discerning buyers amid market volatility, while avoiding hype-driven expansion tactics. This approach tied early revenue to the inherent appeal of its "honest " positioning, fostering steady growth through craftsmanship and material integrity.

Creative directorship at Chloé

Gabriela Hearst was appointed of on December 7, 2020, succeeding Natacha Ramsay-Levi, with her tenure emphasizing a shift toward purpose-driven through integration. Her debut Fall/Winter 2021 collection, presented digitally on March 3, 2021, eliminated and viscose in favor of recycled , organic materials, and other sustainable alternatives, which the brand claimed rendered it four times more sustainable than the prior year. Under Hearst's leadership, Chloé pursued rigorous supply chain transparency, conducting audits aligned with SMETA standards and the Richemont Supplier Code of Conduct, while substituting materials such as replacing cotton handbag linings with lower-impact linen and prioritizing natural fibers like wool and cashmere. These efforts culminated in Chloé achieving B Corporation certification in October 2021, marking it as the first European luxury fashion house to attain this standard, which evaluates social and environmental performance. By early 2023, the brand reported using 60 percent low-impact materials across its collections. Hearst's sustainability focus correlated with commercial growth, as Chloé's revenues increased 60 percent within two years of her arrival, reaching an estimated €660 million for the fiscal year ending March 2023, driven in part by marketing that highlighted eco-certifications and purpose-led positioning. Overall, sales rose approximately 65 percent during her three-year tenure, reducing prior losses while advancing the brand's identity as a in luxury. Hearst's departure was confirmed on July 6, , after transforming into a more accountable, eco-oriented entity, though reports indicated tensions from corporate oversight under parent , which constrained her vision amid profitability demands. Her final Spring/Summer 2024 collection was shown on September 28, , during , concluding an amicable exit that allowed her to refocus on her eponymous label; while revenue gains underscored strategic successes, the role highlighted inherent conflicts between creative autonomy and the fiscal imperatives of ownership.

Post-Chloé focus on the eponymous brand

Following her departure from in July 2023, Gabriela Hearst recommitted to her eponymous label, emphasizing greater autonomy in creative and operational decisions. The brand leveraged insights from her tenure at the larger to enhance production scalability while prioritizing and runs to avoid . This included expanding sales channels, such as through the official website offering and accessories, alongside physical growth with a third store opening in in November 2023 and plans for two additional locations to support a goal of doubling overall sales within three years. Hearst presented the Fall 2025 ready-to-wear collection during in March 2025, featuring items like the Cantwell Coat in ivory silk fur and new handbag introductions such as the folded tote in , , and nappa . Production remained focused on low-volume batches, aligning with economic constraints in the sector by minimizing inventory risks rather than pursuing aggressive expansion. This approach, developed under a three-year strategic plan with chief executive Colin, built on the label's foundational principles established since its 2008 inception. To foster amid the industry's post-pandemic slowdown and shifting consumer patterns, the brand diversified revenue streams through accessories, particularly limited-edition handbags produced in controlled quantities to . These efforts emphasized direct sales and selective wholesale partnerships, reflecting a pragmatic adaptation to reduced demand for high-volume while sustaining the label's artisanal scale.

Design philosophy

Sustainability practices

Gabriela Hearst's eponymous label has utilized deadstock fabrics in approximately 30% of its collections, beginning with the debut presentation in February 2017, which aimed to minimize new material production by surplus textiles. This approach extended to later seasons, such as Spring 2022, where one-third of pieces incorporated deadstock to reduce . By April 2019, the brand transitioned to fully compostable TIPA across front-of-house and back-of-house operations, eliminating conventional plastics in favor of bio-based alternatives that decompose within six months in industrial composting facilities. Supply chain traceability features prominently in material sourcing, particularly for from Hearst's family-owned 17,000-acre sheep ranch in Uruguay's region, where farming spans six generations. This was spun and woven for items like piqué and suits in the 2019 collection, enabling end-to-end tracking from farm shearing to finished garments processed in . Uruguayan exhibits a comparatively lower environmental footprint than counterparts, with certifications for production supporting reduced impacts in farming and processing phases. Under Hearst's creative directorship at Chloé from 2017 to 2023, the maison secured B Corporation certification in October 2021—the first for a major luxury brand—following third-party audits verifying improvements in labor standards, emissions tracking, and supply chain ethics. Her independent brand complements this by prioritizing durable, long-lifespan pieces crafted from traceable, low-impact materials, countering disposability in fast fashion through scalable practices like regional wool sourcing over global offsets. Empirical gains include wool processing efficiencies, such as 60% lower energy use in merino-derived items compared to synthetics, alongside inherent water savings from natural fibers over water-intensive alternatives like cotton.

Fusion concept and material innovations

Gabriela Hearst's fusion concept draws inspiration from energy, positioning it as a symbol of clean, limitless power to address fashion's environmental impact, integrated into her designs starting in Fall 2022 collections. This approach reflects a pragmatic emphasis on scalable, low-carbon innovation over transient trends, with motifs like tokamak-inspired runways in the Spring/Summer 2023 show and fabrics dyed to mimic reaction hues, such as fuchsia swatches evoking states. Hearst visited research sites, including in and , to inform this theme, advocating for its potential to power manufacturing without fossil fuels. In material innovations, Hearst blends heritage Uruguayan from her family's Santa Isabel ranch—sourced from sheep on 17,000 acres—with deadstock to create durable, trend-resistant garments, as seen in collections from onward. The Autumn/Winter lineup incorporated 49% deadstock and recycled materials, including reworked from surplus sweaters, prioritizing structural integrity for extended wear over novelty. Subsequent seasons escalated this, with Spring/Summer 2026 utilizing 97% deadstock wovens from prior collections, engineered via techniques like hand-braiding to simulate cable knits for enhanced resilience. These hybrids of traditional ranch-sourced fibers and upcycled textiles aim for products with verifiable longevity, tested through iterative audits rather than aesthetic experimentation. Specific experiments include spaghetti loop constructions in partially deadstock silk chiffon for Resort 2025, adding layered depth while maintaining fabric stability for repeated use, and collaborations echoing Uruguayan artisanal from cooperatives like Manos del Uruguay to fuse rural craftsmanship with modern repurposing. This method contrasts with fast-fashion disposability, focusing on causal durability—fabrics selected for and resistance based on empirical properties from her an heritage—ensuring pieces endure beyond seasonal cycles.

Criticisms of sustainability claims

Gabriela Hearst's initiatives, including the use of deadstock fabrics in approximately 30% of early collections, have not faced major accusations of greenwashing from organizations or independent audits. However, partial reliance on deadstock materials fails to mitigate emissions across the entire , as virgin fibers and still contribute to the brand's , mirroring broader industry patterns where such practices address only upstream waste without resolving downstream production impacts. In the context of the fashion sector's 10% share of carbon emissions—which rose 7.5% to 944 million metric tons in 2023 despite widespread pledges—Hearst's efforts, such as 's B Corp certification under her tenure, raise questions about measurable systemic influence. B Corp standards in have drawn criticism for insufficient rigor, with some certified brands, including , receiving lower ratings in independent assessments like Good On You for gaps in supplier oversight and lifecycle management, potentially allowing certifications to support premium pricing rather than drive consumer behavioral shifts toward reduced consumption. The pricing of Hearst's offerings, often exceeding $1,000 per garment, inherently limits accessibility, confining benefits to affluent buyers and undermining in an where durable, high-quality items could theoretically reduce overall disposability without relying on virtue-signaling metrics. This model aligns with Hearst's ranch-derived emphasis on over volume, yet it echoes critiques of as niche rather than transformative, where high margins may prioritize over empirical reductions in sector-wide environmental harm.

Business operations

Retail expansion and market strategy

Gabriela Hearst established her initial presence with the opening of a 1,900-square-foot flagship store at 985 in in 2018, featuring the complete women's , , and accessory collections in a space designed without synthetic materials. Expansions followed, including a boutique in the in and a pop-up shop at Le Bristol hotel in in March 2025, alongside the launch of an exclusive store in in partnership with Handsome Corp in 2023. The brand aims to double its global store network within three years, emphasizing controlled physical footprints. Complementing owned stores, distribution occurs selectively through luxury retailers like and Mr. Porter, favoring limited availability to sustain elevated margins over mass-market volume. This exclusivity-driven model supports production in constrained quantities, such as made-to-order handbags, prioritizing demand alignment to avoid excess inventory. E-commerce via the brand's website gained prominence after , integrating digital tools for inventory precision to curb , while metrics of viability center on product evidenced by resale retention—such as the Nina bag's investment-grade performance—fostering repeat clientele rather than transient trends.

Notable clients and collaborations

Gabriela Hearst's clientele includes prominent figures such as , who popularized the designer's Nina bag; ; and , reflecting the brand's draw among discerning elites prioritizing enduring craftsmanship over fleeting trends. Other notable wearers encompass , , , and , whose public appearances in Hearst pieces have amplified the label's visibility in luxury circles. These associations underscore the brand's market viability, evidenced by selective retail presence and channels that sustain demand without mass-market dilution. Key collaborations have fortified supply chain integrity and introduced limited-edition offerings, such as partnerships with Bolivian artisans from y Artesanas for handcrafted elements and Uruguayan collective Manos del Uruguay for empowered initiatives. In 2022, Hearst teamed with Clergerie on exclusive for the spring/summer collection and textile artists Naiomi Glasses and TahNibaa Naataanii for woven motifs, integrating techniques into . Further alliances include a 2023 fragrance line with Fueguia 1833, yielding scents like and ; a capsule with Tricker's for luxury boots; and a 2024 Grateful Dead-inspired collection blending archival motifs with contemporary tailoring. Such ties enhance narrative depth and material authenticity, though they invite scrutiny for potentially reinforcing exclusivity amid critiques of luxury fashion's accessibility barriers, offset by entry-level accessories like the bag starting under $2,000.

Recognition and impact

Awards and industry honors

In 2020, Gabriela Hearst was awarded the Council of Fashion Designers of (CFDA) Womenswear of the Year, recognizing her eponymous label's commercial traction and design influence amid a competitive market. This accolade, determined by industry peers and voters, correlated with her brand's expanding retail presence and sales momentum prior to her appointment later that year. Hearst's sustainability-focused honors during her Chloé tenure, such as the British Fashion Council's (BFC) 2021 Leaders of Change award in the category, highlighted efforts like B Corp certification and reduced use in collections, though these recognitions primarily validated narrative alignment with industry trends rather than independently audited long-term environmental metrics. Similarly, the Fashion Group International's 2021 Night of Stars award for underscored peer endorsement of her initiatives, coinciding with Chloé's reported revenue growth to approximately €400 million annually under her direction. Earlier accolades include the International Woolmark Prize for Womenswear in 2017, following her 2016 U.S. win, which signaled viability through material innovation judging by global wool industry experts and boosted her brand's international wholesale partnerships. In 2018, she received the Pratt 's Fashion Visionary Award for sustainability commitments, and in 2023, the of Technology's Couture Award for Artistry of Fashion, reflecting sustained industry validation. More recently, the 2024 TIME Earth Award acknowledged her advocacy for clean energy in design, presented amid broader scrutiny of fashion's environmental claims. These honors, while conferring prestige and market signals for investor and consumer appeal, often prioritize contemporaneous peer consensus and thematic narratives—such as —over rigorous, longitudinal assessments of design durability or economic impact, as evidenced by the sector's of awarding brands with short-term hype cycles.

Philanthropy and public engagement

Charitable initiatives

Hearst has channeled philanthropic efforts toward , prioritizing initiatives that sustain rural communities and reflect her family's multigenerational ranching ethos in . She supports ReachingU, a U.S.-based nonprofit delivering to underprivileged children and teenagers across the country, fostering educational and developmental opportunities in line with traditional family-oriented giving. A key focus involves artisan preservation through partnerships with Manos del Uruguay, a 1968-founded cooperative that employs rural women in crafting textiles and goods, providing economic stability amid agricultural challenges. For her Fall 2016 collection, Hearst incorporated their hand-knitted pieces, extending to later projects like cashmere accessories from surplus yarns, which bolster local craftsmanship rooted in her homeland's pastoral traditions rather than transient global trends. Globally, Hearst contributes to , an organization aligned with her household's long-standing commitments—her husband has served on its board for over two decades—via product-sale proceeds funding family aid programs. In 2017, sales enabled approximately $55 monthly cash grants to more than 1,000 families in Kenya's Turkana region, emphasizing practical support for child welfare over ideological campaigns. These endeavors highlight a preference for grounded, heritage-driven , informed by ranch-life realism, contrasting with performative by targeting skills and youth in underserved locales.

Effectiveness and scrutiny

Hearst's philanthropic engagements, particularly through annual donations to via brand proceeds, have supported emergency preparedness and hunger response efforts, with the organization reporting over $8.5 million deployed preemptively for predictable crises as of recent partnerships. However, independent evaluations of these specific contributions' long-term scalability—such as sustained improvements in affected communities' self-sufficiency or reductions in dependency—are absent from , limiting causal assessment of outcomes beyond immediate aid distribution. Save the Children's broader operations reached 121 emergencies across 63 countries in , but no disaggregated data ties Hearst's inputs to verifiable metrics like replicated projects or cost-effectiveness ratios. In the luxury fashion sector, where frequently intersects with branding, such initiatives risk prioritizing symbolic gestures over systemic , as critiques highlight how donations often yield tax deductions and reputational gains without tackling underlying incentives like or cultural reliance on external . This aligns with broader of celebrity-aligned giving, which empirical analyses question for inflating perceived impact through while underdelivering on scalable, self-reinforcing models akin to family-based traditions. outlets' coverage, often PR-influenced rather than rigorously analytical, amplifies announcements but seldom scrutinizes , reflecting the industry's self-interested . Empirical prioritization reveals a gap: verifiable delivery trumps narrative, yet Hearst's board role at and repeated holiday campaigns—donating 100% net proceeds for the sixth year in 2024—lack third-party audits confirming outsized influence relative to total organizational funding. Absent such data, these efforts appear more aligned with sector norms of visible alignment than with causal mechanisms fostering independence, underscoring the need for outcome-focused over assumed benevolence.

Personal life

Family and marriage

Gabriela Hearst married , an executive at the Hearst Corporation and grandson of media magnate , in 2013. The couple exchanged vows at in April of that year, followed by a reception at the in June. The Hearsts have three children together, in addition to Hearst's husband's two children from a prior . Hearst has emphasized the role of her family in providing stability amid the high-pressure , noting that her husband's adaptation of his professional responsibilities has involved mutual sacrifices to accommodate her career demands. This traditional family structure, centered on residency with her husband and children, supports her focus on enduring professional commitments over ephemeral fluctuations.

Lifestyle and Uruguayan roots

Gabriela Hearst maintains strong personal connections to her family's 17,000-acre ranch, Santa Isabel, in the region of , where she was raised amid gaucho traditions, horses, , and sheep. This upbringing in relative isolation, involving off-grid living and annual food planning due to seasonal floods, instilled a practical self-sufficiency and resourcefulness that she continues to embody. After inheriting the ranch following her father's death in 2011, she oversees its operations remotely, including management of approximately 5,000 head of and 9,000 sheep, with periodic visits to handle tasks such as . These ties reflect a commitment to localized land stewardship, grounded in verifiable rural practices rather than abstract ideals. While based in a townhouse in for professional reasons, Hearst rejects the excesses of urban consumerism, prioritizing disciplined habits such as retiring to bed by 9:30 p.m. for at least eight hours of , regular exercise, and a generally with occasional indulgences like . Her ranch roots foster an aversion to superfluous gifting and a for durable, functional items honed by necessity, contrasting with detached elite detachment. This balance—splitting time between continents via arduous 24-hour journeys—underscores a of intentional over . Hearst's enduring interest in equestrian pursuits stems from her childhood immersion in the symbiotic relationship between gauchos and , with the ranch sustaining around 110 today. This manifests in personal appreciation for equine heritage, echoing her mother's of criollo , and reinforces a of self-reliant over performative gestures. Her approach favors empirical oversight of tangible resources, such as breeding healthy adapted to natural conditions, prioritizing verifiable outcomes from direct engagement with the land.

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