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Pastilla

Pastilla, also known as bastilla or b'stilla, is a traditional Maghrebi savory-sweet pie particularly associated with Morocco, characterized by its intricate layers of thin, flaky warqa (or ouarka) pastry enveloping a rich filling of spiced pigeon or chicken meat, scrambled eggs, toasted almonds, onions, and a blend of aromatic spices including cinnamon, ginger, saffron, and cilantro.^[1]^[2] The dish traces its roots to Andalusian cuisine in medieval Spain, where it likely evolved from earlier stews and pastries influenced by Islamic culinary traditions, before being brought to Morocco by Muslim and Jewish refugees fleeing the Reconquista in 1492; it became particularly prominent in cities like Fez and Tetouan, with documentation of its preparation in Tetouan dating back to 1889 among palace cooks.^[1]^[2] Pastilla holds significant cultural importance as a centerpiece for celebratory events such as weddings, naming ceremonies, circumcisions, and religious holidays primarily in Moroccan Berber communities, symbolizing hospitality and communal feasting; its preparation, often a labor-intensive process involving handmade warqa dough, underscores its status as a high-value delicacy that blends salty proteins with sweet elements for a harmonious flavor balance. It is also prepared in Algerian and Tunisian contexts for similar occasions.^[2]^[1]^[3] Regional variations extend beyond the classic poultry version to include seafood pastilla with fish, shrimp, or squid—common in coastal areas like Casablanca and Essaouira—and contemporary vegetarian adaptations using vegetables or legumes, reflecting evolving dietary preferences while preserving the dish's core sweet-savory essence.^[2]^[1]

Etymology and History

Etymology

The term "pastilla" for the traditional Maghrebi pie derives from the Spanish word pastilla, which historically referred to a small compressed mass, such as a "pill" or "small pastry," originating from the Latin pastillus meaning a little loaf or tablet. In Arabic, particularly in Maghrebi dialects, the initial /p/ phoneme—absent in native Arabic—is systematically substituted with /b/ in loanwords, leading to variants like b'stilla, bastilla, or bsṭīla.^[4]^[5] This adaptation traces back to linguistic exchanges during the Moorish era in Al-Andalus (Muslim-ruled Iberia), where Spanish culinary terminology influenced North African Arabic through trade, migration, and cultural transmission.^[6] English transliterations often render it as "bisteeya" to approximate the Arabic pronunciation.^[5] Over time, the term has solidified in Maghrebi Arabic dialects as basṭīla (بسطيلة), distinctly tied to the pie's preparation rather than unrelated confections; for instance, it should not be confused with the Italian pastiglia, a small medicated lozenge derived separately from the Latin pastillus via French pastille. This etymological trajectory highlights the migration of Iberian culinary lexicon to North Africa amid the historical expulsion of Muslims and Jews from Spain in the late 15th century.^[6]

Origins and Historical Development

Pastilla, a layered savory-sweet pie, traces its culinary roots to 13th- to 15th-century Andalusia in Islamic Spain, where Moorish courts developed elaborate savory pastries incorporating meat, nuts, and spices, blending Arab, Berber, and Mediterranean influences.^[7]^[8] These early forms, known as "pastillas," featured thin dough encasing fillings like pigeon or game birds, reflecting the sophisticated banquets of the Nasrid dynasty in Granada.^[9] Following the Reconquista and the fall of Granada in 1492, expelled Moors and Sephardi Jews migrated to North Africa, carrying Andalusian recipes to cities like Fez in Morocco, where pastilla emerged as a royal delicacy in the early 16th century.^[10]^[8] In Fez's imperial kitchens, the dish adapted to local ingredients, with warqa dough replacing filo-like sheets and saffron-infused pigeon becoming a hallmark of festive meals for the elite.^[10] During the Saadian dynasty (1549–1659), pastilla gained prominence in Moroccan palaces, evolving from its pigeon-based origins to incorporate chicken as a more accessible protein while retaining its status as a symbol of opulence.^[10] This period marked pastilla's refinement into a structured pie with contrasting sweet almond layers, solidifying its place in Moroccan gastronomy. Parallels exist in Algerian cuisine, where bastila variants appeared later through Ottoman influences in the 16th century, though Moroccan iterations remained distinct in their emphasis on warqa pastry and royal presentation.^[11]

Description and Ingredients

Core Components

The core of the traditional Moroccan pastilla lies in its warqa dough, a delicate, translucent pastry essential for encasing the filling and providing a crisp, flaky texture upon baking. Warqa is prepared from a simple batter of high-gluten flour, water, fine semolina, salt, a touch of cider vinegar or lemon juice, and a small amount of extra virgin olive oil, which is then cooked into thin sheets using a specialized pan called a tobsil or by the traditional hand-clapping method, where oiled dough is stretched between the palms to achieve tissue-paper thinness.^[12] This process results in layers that are more tender and elastic than commercial phyllo dough, which is rolled rather than clapped or poured, allowing warqa to absorb butter without becoming soggy while baking to a golden, shatteringly crisp exterior.^[8] The primary filling centers on slow-cooked poultry, traditionally pigeon—reflecting its historical roots as a delicacy for special occasions—but often substituted with chicken in modern preparations for accessibility. The meat is simmered with finely chopped onions, fresh parsley and cilantro, saffron threads for a subtle floral aroma, ground ginger, and cinnamon to infuse a warm, aromatic depth, resulting in tender, shredded pieces that form the savory base.^[13]^[14] Scrambled eggs, added toward the end of cooking and gently stirred into the mixture, serve as a binding agent, creating a cohesive, custard-like layer that balances the richness of the meat without overpowering its flavors.^[8] Complementing the savory elements are sweet components that define pastilla's signature sweet-savory contrast, primarily blanched almonds that are toasted, ground, and mixed with granulated sugar and a hint of cinnamon to form a fragrant paste layered atop the filling. This almond mixture provides a nutty crunch and subtle sweetness that cuts through the spices, enhancing the overall harmony of textures and tastes.^[13] Upon serving, the baked pastilla is dusted generously with powdered sugar and sifted cinnamon, creating a visually striking lattice pattern that reinforces the dessert-like finish.^[14] A unique blend of spices and aromatics elevates the dish's complexity, with ras el hanout—a North African mix often including over a dozen herbs and spices—providing a foundational earthy warmth, while turmeric contributes a vibrant golden hue and mild bitterness to the broth. Preserved lemon, rind finely chopped and flesh discarded, adds a briny, citrusy tang that brightens the filling and ties the flavors together, distinguishing pastilla from simpler savory pies.^[15]^[16]

Regional Ingredient Variations

In Morocco, the traditional pastilla employs squab (young pigeon) as the primary protein, prized for its tender flavor, though chicken has largely supplanted it in contemporary preparations owing to the latter's lower cost and broader availability. Pigeon remains more expensive than chicken, making the substitution practical for everyday cooking. In Algeria, pastilla similarly favors chicken or pigeon, adapting to local poultry options without altering the dish's foundational structure. The signature almond layer, typically blanched, toasted, and sweetened with cinnamon and sugar, occasionally incorporates substitutions in regional recipes; for instance, pistachios may replace almonds in some Fez-inspired variations for a nuttier profile, while locals traditionally prefer almonds. Coastal Moroccan versions, such as those from Tangier, often integrate orange blossom water into the almond paste to evoke the region's floral notes, enhancing the sweet-savory balance. In coastal areas, poultry is frequently replaced by seafood, including shrimp, calamari, and white fish like cod or sea bass, poached with traditional spices and vermicelli for a briny adaptation suited to abundant marine resources. Core spices such as cinnamon, ginger, and saffron persist uniformly, providing continuity amid these ingredient shifts.

Preparation and Serving

Assembly Techniques

The assembly of pastilla requires careful layering of warqa pastry sheets with cooled fillings to achieve its characteristic crisp exterior and balanced flavors. Warqa, a translucent, tissue-thin dough unique to Moroccan cuisine, is traditionally prepared by daubing a semolina-flour batter onto a hot, oiled surface like a tobsil pan, creating 10 to 15 delicate sheets per pie that are then brushed with melted butter or olive oil for flakiness during assembly.^[13]^[17] Assembly begins on a large round tray or ovenproof dish, often 12 to 14 inches in diameter to accommodate family-sized portions. Several warqa sheets (typically 5 to 7) are overlapped and arranged to line the bottom and sides, with the shiny side facing down and excess dough draping over the edges; each sheet is lightly brushed with butter to prevent sticking and promote crispiness. The cooked meat or poultry filling—shredded and combined with eggs, onions, and spices—is cooled completely before being spread evenly in a thick layer, ensuring it does not steam and sog the pastry during subsequent steps.^[18] A central layer of ground, toasted almonds mixed with sugar and cinnamon follows, providing the pie's sweet core and acting as a barrier between savory elements; this mixture is portioned precisely to maintain flavor harmony without overpowering the savory components. Additional warqa sheets (another 5 to 7) are placed over the almond layer, with the shiny side up, and brushed with butter, followed by folding the overhanging bottom edges inward to seal the fillings securely. The top is finished with 2 to 3 more butter-brushed warqa sheets, tucked gently around the sides to enclose the pie fully, avoiding tears in the fragile dough that could compromise texture.^[18] Tips for success emphasize working quickly with warqa to prevent drying, using clarified butter for its high smoke point and even melting, and portioning fillings meticulously to ensure uniform distribution and prevent leakage during baking.^[18]

Baking and Presentation

The baking process for pastilla begins after the layered assembly is complete, with the pie placed in a preheated oven at 190°C (375°F) on the center rack. It is baked for about 20 minutes until partially set, then carefully flipped to promote even browning and crispness on both sides, followed by an additional 5 minutes to achieve a golden exterior.^[19] Upon removal from the oven, the hot pastilla is dusted liberally with powdered sugar sifted through a fine mesh, then adorned with lines of ground cinnamon arranged in a crisscross pattern to enhance its visual appeal; thin slices of orange may optionally be placed around the perimeter for a fresh, citrusy garnish.^[19] In traditional settings, the intact pastilla is brought to the table whole for dramatic presentation and portioned into wedges just before serving, aligning with Moroccan communal dining practices.^[20] Pastilla is ideally consumed immediately after baking for optimal texture, though leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one week or frozen for one month; to reheat, place in a 175°C (350°F) oven until warmed through, brushing lightly with oil to prevent sogginess.^[19]^[21]

Variations

Poultry Pastilla

Poultry pastilla represents the quintessential savory iteration of this Moroccan pie, centered on pigeon or chicken as the key filling. Traditionally prepared with young pigeons known as squabs, the meat undergoes a slow-simmering process akin to confit, infused with a complex blend of spices to yield tender, flavorful shreds. In contemporary urban Moroccan contexts, chicken serves as a common substitute due to greater availability and cost considerations, maintaining the dish's structural integrity while adapting to modern preferences.^[22]^[23]^[24] The preparation begins with seasoning the poultry—typically 2-3 pounds for a standard pie—with a ras el hanout blend comprising up to 12 spices such as cinnamon, ginger, turmeric, cumin, coriander, black pepper, cardamom, nutmeg, cloves, allspice, fennel, and saffron, alongside onions, garlic, cilantro, and parsley. The meat is browned in olive oil or butter, then simmered in stock or water for 30 minutes to 3 hours until fall-apart tender, with the liquid reduced to concentrate flavors; for chicken, this extended simmering (often 2-3 hours total including reductions) ensures optimal succulence. Eggs are incorporated into the spiced broth, gently scrambled for 3-5 minutes to form a creamy layer that binds the filling. Almonds, blanched and toasted, are ground into a paste with sugar and additional cinnamon, providing a substantial, sweet counterbalance—particularly emphasized in the heavy almond layer of the iconic Fez-style version.^[25]^[24]^[22]^[23] Assembly involves layering the components within delicate warqa sheets—a thin, unleavened pastry similar to but crisper than phyllo—brushed generously with melted butter for flakiness. Traditional recipes call for 10-16 warqa sheets total, arranged to overlap and encase the alternating layers of spiced meat, egg custard, and almond paste in a round or oval mold, often 10-12 inches in diameter. The pie bakes at 350-450°F for 20-50 minutes until golden and crisp. This creates a flavor profile of savory-spicy depth from the poultry and spices, offset by the sweet, nutty almond paste and a final dusting of powdered sugar and cinnamon.^[22]^[24]^[23] In regional practice, the Fez rendition stands out for its opulent almond paste and use of pigeon, reflecting the city's imperial culinary heritage, while urban adaptations favor chicken for everyday preparation. Pastillas vary in scale, from large 12-inch shared versions serving 6-8 to smaller individual portions for intimate gatherings, allowing flexibility in presentation without altering core techniques.^[22]^[23]^[24]

Seafood and Meat Alternatives

In coastal regions of Morocco, pastilla adaptations incorporate seafood such as shrimp, calamari, and white fish like whiting or sole, combined with Chinese vermicelli noodles and fresh cilantro for a lighter, more aromatic filling.^[26] These versions typically employ a chermoula marinade featuring garlic, cumin, paprika, and preserved lemon, eschewing the heavy cinnamon and sweetness characteristic of poultry-based pastilla to highlight the delicate flavors of the sea.^[27] The warqa dough remains a universal element, providing the flaky, layered enclosure.^[26] Preparation for seafood pastilla emphasizes brevity to preserve texture, with the filling cooked for 20 to 30 minutes before assembly, followed by a baking time of 30 to 45 minutes at moderate heat to achieve crispness without overcooking the proteins.^[28] Harissa paste is often added during the sautéing stage to introduce a subtle heat that complements the seafood's brininess, distinguishing these variants from milder inland recipes.^[29] Under Algerian influences, pastilla incorporates lamb or beef with prunes and dried fruits, resulting in a less overtly sweet profile compared to Moroccan counterparts, where the fruit's natural sugars are balanced by savory spices like ginger and cinnamon without excessive honey.^[30] The meat is slow-simmered until tender, then layered with the fruit mixture inside warqa or phyllo sheets, yielding a hearty pie suited to celebratory meals in Algerian cuisine.^[31]

Sweet and Dairy Versions

The milk pastilla, also referred to as jawhara (meaning "jewel" in Arabic) or ktefa, represents a cherished dessert adaptation of the traditional pastilla, prominent in Fez and served at weddings and other celebrations. It features multiple layers of thin warqa pastry, crisped through frying, alternated with a rich, sweetened milk custard and finely chopped roasted almonds, often finished with a drizzle of honey for added indulgence. The custard is prepared by boiling whole milk infused with a cinnamon stick, sugar, and orange blossom water, then thickened with cornstarch to achieve a smooth, creamy consistency that contrasts the pastry's crunch.^[32] This dairy-centric version emphasizes a shorter preparation to preserve the custard's velvety texture, distinguishing it from longer-baked savory counterparts, and is typically assembled without further oven time, allowing it to set at room temperature. Topped with a traditional almond-sugar layer—ground almonds mixed with powdered sugar and cinnamon—it balances subtle floral notes from the orange blossom with warm spices. A single serving provides approximately 375 kcal, underscoring its calorie-dense nature as a luxurious treat.^[32] Vegetarian interpretations of sweet pastilla have emerged in modern Moroccan cuisine, offering lighter alternatives through plant-based fillings like caramelized pumpkin layered with a sweetened almond paste, wrapped in warqa and baked to flaky perfection. These adaptations maintain the dish's signature sweet-savory interplay via spices such as cinnamon and ginger, while incorporating seasonal vegetables for accessibility and reduced richness compared to dairy-heavy versions.^[33] Historically, sweet pastilla variants evolved from opulent presentations at royal banquets in medieval Morocco, where they symbolized culinary extravagance, to more commonplace desserts in contemporary households, adapting to everyday palates while preserving their festive essence. This progression mirrors the broader democratization of pastilla from palace exclusivity to widespread cultural staple.^[10]^[34]

Sephardic Jewish and Other Adaptations

In Sephardic Jewish communities of Morocco, pastilla underwent kosher adaptations after the 1492 expulsion from Spain, incorporating Andalusian culinary influences into North African traditions while adhering to dietary laws. Pigeon, the traditional filling, was replaced with chicken or turkey to ensure kashrut, and butter was substituted with olive oil or margarine to prevent mixing meat and dairy products. This maintained the dish's layered structure of spiced shredded poultry, caramelized onions, eggs, and sweetened almonds dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar, often wrapped in warqa dough or its phyllo equivalent. The result emphasized a stricter separation of flavors by excluding dairy entirely from the meat-based version, preserving the iconic sweet-savory contrast without violating prohibitions.^[35]^[36] For Passover observance among North African Sephardic Jews, pastilla is further modified to avoid leavened grains, substituting warqa or phyllo with matzah sheets soaked in an egg-based mixture to create a binding crust. In one such adaptation, known as Passover bastilla, boneless chicken is simmered with cumin and ginger, then layered with sautéed onions and herbs, a cinnamon-sugared almond paste, and the egg-soaked matzah, baked into a springform pan for a cohesive pie. This version, served as a festive main course, highlights the dish's role in holiday meals while complying with chametz restrictions, often featuring turkey for variety in some diaspora families.^[37] In Tunisian cuisine, a related variation known as tagine malsouka uses thin malsouka pastry sheets layered with spiced chicken, tuna, or ground meat fillings, baked into a savory pie without the sweet almond paste or cinnamon-sugar topping characteristic of Moroccan pastilla, emphasizing aromatic spices like cumin and coriander instead.^[38] Sephardic Jews in the Ottoman Empire and Middle Eastern diaspora drew parallels between pastilla and Turkish börek, adapting the layered pastry into kosher borekas with cheese and potato fillings for dairy meals, using an elastic oil-based dough stretched thin like warqa. These borekas, common in Turkish and Greek Sephardic communities, echo pastilla's flaky encasement and spiced profiles but shift to vegetarian or dairy options to align with meal separations. In contemporary Israel, pastilla evolves with modern conveniences, such as phyllo dough for quicker assembly into handheld cigars or large skillets, blending Moroccan roots with accessible ingredients while retaining almond-cinnamon toppings.^[39]^[40]

Cultural Significance

Role in Moroccan Traditions

Pastilla holds a central place in Moroccan social and ceremonial life, serving as an emblem of hospitality and abundance during key festive events. It is traditionally featured at weddings, circumcisions, and Ramadan iftars, where its elaborate layers of flavors and textures underscore themes of generosity and communal joy.^[41] The dish's preparation and presentation reinforce cultural bonds, often marking transitions such as marriages or religious milestones, and its inclusion in these gatherings highlights Morocco's emphasis on shared feasting as a form of social cohesion.^[41] The creation of pastilla is deeply embedded in family and gender dynamics, typically undertaken by women in collaborative groups that include mothers, aunts, and daughters. This process, which can take 4 to 6 hours or more, involves meticulous steps like slow-cooking fillings and layering thin warqa dough, transforming the kitchen into a space of intergenerational knowledge transmission and bonding.^[41] Pastillas are made in large sizes, often sufficient for 20 or more people, baked in oversized pans to facilitate communal serving and to symbolize prosperity during these events.^[42] Serving practices further reflect traditional Moroccan customs, including gender-segregated arrangements where women may prepare and deliver the dish to separate men's and women's areas, preserving spatial and social norms while ensuring equitable participation in the celebration.^[41] As a luxury item due to its intensive labor and premium ingredients like almonds and spices, pastilla is reserved primarily for special occasions rather than daily meals, underscoring its status as an economic and cultural investment in hospitality.^[43] Historically associated with royal courts, it evokes a legacy of refinement that persists in contemporary traditions.

Global Influence and Modern Adaptations

Pastilla has gained significant popularity beyond Morocco through Moroccan diaspora communities, particularly in France and the United States, where it features prominently on menus at authentic Moroccan restaurants. In France, with its large North African immigrant population, pastilla is a staple at establishments like Le Sirocco and Essaouira in Paris, often served as a celebratory appetizer blending traditional spices with local adaptations.^[44] Similarly, in the U.S., restaurants such as Café Mogador in New York City and Argana in Port Chester, New York, offer pastilla, typically made with chicken or seafood, attracting diners seeking exotic flavors and drawing on the dish's festive heritage.^[45]^[46] This global spread reflects the influence of Moroccan migration since the mid-20th century, introducing the pie's unique sweet-savory profile to diverse culinary scenes. Contemporary reinterpretations of pastilla emphasize accessibility and dietary inclusivity, with vegan fusions emerging prominently in Europe. For instance, UK-based recipes substitute traditional poultry with sweet potatoes, chickpeas, or tofu, wrapped in phyllo dough and spiced similarly, as seen in publications like Sainsbury's Magazine and The Guardian, catering to plant-based trends.^[47]^[48] Quick versions using readily available phyllo dough instead of handmade warqa have simplified preparation, reducing cooking time to under an hour in skillet adaptations popularized by chefs like those at The Mediterranean Dish.^[21] Health-conscious modifications often incorporate olive oil or reduced butter quantities, aligning with broader wellness movements while preserving the dish's layered texture and flavors.^[16] As a cultural export, pastilla has appeared in international media and cookbooks since the 2010s, highlighting Maghrebi cuisine's global appeal and contributing to UNESCO discussions on intangible heritage. Notable examples include simplified recipes in The New York Times Cooking and Gordon Ramsay's Ultimate Cookery Course, which emphasize its adaptability for home cooks.^[24]^[49] The dish features in broader conversations around Moroccan gastronomy's recognition, such as UNESCO's 2020 inscription of couscous traditions and ongoing partnerships for a global food heritage atlas, underscoring pastilla's role in preserving North African culinary practices amid worldwide dissemination.^[50]

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A Chicken Pie That's Well Worth the Wait - The New York Times
Feb 15, 2019 · Though I am by no means an expert in Moroccan cuisine, I have long been an ardent admirer. · The main work is braising the chicken, which is ...Missing: techniques authentic
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Take your sweet time with a Moroccan meat pie | Food | The Guardian
Jun 12, 2015 · But whether you call it pastilla, bastilla, bisteeya, b'stilla, or bstilla, this meat pie is best made slowly, with the radio on and the windows ...Missing: Morocco | Show results with:Morocco
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D-Day diplomacy: A guide to the pitfalls to avoid - BBC News
Jun 6, 2014 · "I remember when the Queen came to Morocco, she was served a traditional dish called pastilla," recalls Abdel-ilah Bennis, a former Moroccan ...
[43]
TOP 10 BEST Pastilla in Paris, France - Updated 2025 - Yelp
Rating 3.9 (797) Top 10 Best pastilla Near Paris, Paris · 1. Le Sirocco · 2. Essaouira · 3. Le Méchoui du Prince · 4. Le Traiteur Marocain · 5. Au P'tit Cahoua · 6. Le Timgad · 7. Le ...
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Moroccan food restaurants in Paris? - Facebook
Jun 30, 2025 · We had the Moroccan chicken pastilla app. This was our favorite Moroccan dish so wherever you are must try this. For the main we had lamb chops ...Moroccan chicken bastilla cuisine - FacebookWe met some folks on board that shared this little tip with us. If you ...More results from www.facebook.com
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TOP 10 BEST Pastilla in New York, NY - Updated 2025 - Yelp
Rating 4.2 (8,405) Top 10 Best Pastilla Near New York, New York ; 1. Cafe Mogador. 4.1 (2.3k reviews) ; 2. Cafe Mogador. 4.4 (1.6k reviews) ; 3. Ayah Restaurant. 3.6 (13 reviews) ; 4.
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Best Moroccan restaurant in Port Chester, NY | Argana Restaurant ...
Step into a world of rich flavors, warm hospitality, and cultural elegance at Argana Restaurant & Bar the only Moroccan restaurant in Westchester and ...
[47]
Tagines and pastilla: a guide to Moroccan food | Insight Guides Blog
Aug 26, 2015 · Moroccan cuisine has influenced top chefs and restaurants all over the world, but you'll never find it as tasty or as subtle as the food ...
[48]
Sweet potato pastilla recipe | Sainsbury`s Magazine
Rating 4.0 (443) · 1 hr 5 minsA Moroccan pastilla is traditionally filled with pigeon and apricots. This colourful vegetarian version uses sweet potato and cinnamon.
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Anna Jones' Moroccan recipes: spiced aubergines and filo pie | Food
1 hr 25 minMar 1, 2019 · Anna Jones' Moroccan recipes: spiced aubergines and filo pie. A spicy aubergine dip with halloumi and a vegetarian take on the country's signature pie.
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Easy chicken pastilla recipe - Eat Your Books
Save this Easy chicken pastilla recipe and more from Gordon Ramsay's Ultimate Cookery Course to your own online collection at EatYourBooks.com.
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UNESCO and Morocco Partner to Create First Global Atlas of Food ...
Apr 24, 2025 · UNESCO partners with Morocco for its global project aimed at publishing for the very first time an international Atlas of food heritage.