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Assos

Assos is an city located on a steep volcanic hill overlooking the in northwestern Turkey's , renowned for its well-preserved archaeological remains and as a center of early where established a school in the . Founded by Aeolian Greek colonists from Methymna on the nearby island of in the , Assos built upon earlier settlements and quickly developed into a prosperous port city and major in . The city reached its peak prominence in the under the rule of Hermias, a former student of , who invited the philosopher Aristotle to Assos in 347 BC; there, Aristotle founded an academy, conducted biological research, and married Hermias's niece before departing for in 344 BC. Throughout its history, Assos aligned with the after the Persian Wars in 478 BC, later falling under Persian, Macedonian, Pergamene, and Roman control following Alexander the Great's conquests, while maintaining its cultural character as a trade hub with an estimated population of around 30,000 at its height. Key architectural features include the Doric Temple of (built ca. 530 BC) on the , one of the best-preserved temples in ; a 3.1 km-long fortification wall from the rising up to 12 meters high; a Hellenistic theater seating over 4,000; and an flanked by stoas, a , and a . The site also served as an early Christian center, visited by St. Paul around 56–57 AD, and remained inhabited continuously for over 3,000 years through Byzantine, Seljuk, , and modern eras until its decline as a major settlement by the 18th century. Excavations began in 1881 under the Archaeological Institute of America, uncovering artifacts now in museums like Boston's Museum of Fine Arts, with ongoing work since by Turkish teams focusing on preservation, including the replacement of earlier concrete reconstructions with authentic stone to protect structures like the temple. Today, Assos is a first-degree and since 1982, integrated with the modern village of Behramkale, and recognized on 's Tentative List for its outstanding universal value as a testimony to Greek , philosophical heritage, and continuous human occupation.

Geography

Location and Topography

Assos is situated at 39°29′16″N 26°20′13″E in the Ayvacık district of , northwestern , on the southwestern part of the Biga Peninsula in the historical region. The site occupies a steep volcanic hill, an extinct plug rising to 238 meters above , which dominates the local terrain and provided a naturally defensible . This hilltop overlooks the ancient Gulf of Adramyttium—now known as the Gulf of Edremit—to the east, while the Aegean Sea lies to the west and Mount Ida (modern Kaz Dağı) rises prominently to the east, framing the eastern horizon. The surrounding landscape includes rugged volcanic rock formations, the fertile Tuzla River valley to the north, and terraced slopes supporting olive groves, with the island of Lesbos visible approximately 10 kilometers across the Strait of Mytilene to the south, enhancing the site's strategic vantage for panoramic views across the Aegean.

Harbor and Coastal Environment

The harbor of Assos is a natural sheltered on the north of the Adramyttian Gulf (modern Edremit Körfezi), serving as the only reliable anchorage along an approximately 80 km stretch of rugged, cliff-lined shoreline in the region. This strategic position made it a vital hub, facilitating and navigation for ancient vessels rounding Cape Lecton (modern Baba Burnu) and connecting the Aegean mainland with nearby and other Greek settlements across the strait. The bay's calm waters, protected from prevailing northerly winds, supported commerce in goods like timber, stone, and agricultural products until at least the 18th century, when it remained active for exporting Valonea oak cortices used in . The coastal environment of Assos is shaped by a classic , characterized by mild, wet winters with average temperatures around 10°C and of 600–800 mm annually, transitioning to hot, dry summers exceeding 30°C with minimal rainfall. This regime supports a diverse local , including red pine () forests on the lower slopes and surrounding hills, interspersed with dominated by evergreen such as and , adapted to fire-prone conditions and poor soils. In the gulf waters, thrives in the nutrient-rich shallows, featuring meadows, diverse worms, and fish like groupers and , contributing to the region's status. Geologically, the Assos promontory formed through tectonic activity in the , a seismically dynamic zone at the convergence of the Aegean and Anatolian plates, where volcanic processes during the period created an extinct . The site's durability stems from its and compositions, dark brown volcanic rocks that weather slowly and provided abundant local material for ancient constructions, enhancing the harbor's long-term viability amid regional uplift and .

History

Foundation and Aeolian Settlement

Assos was established as an Aeolian by settlers from Methymna on the nearby island of , contributing to the broader Aeolian expansion along the Anatolian coastline during the period. Ancient literary traditions, such as those preserved in Strabo's , attribute the founding to Aeolian migrants from Methymna, emphasizing the city's ethnic ties to . However, archaeological evidence indicates occupation at the site, with the Aeolian founded in the late , as evidenced by the earliest imported gray ware dating to the second half of that century, aligning Assos with other Archaic-era foundations rather than earlier migrations. The initial economy of Assos centered on in the fertile plains of the , supplemented by and maritime trade enabled by its strategic coastal position on the Gulf of . The natural harbor provided access to Aegean shipping routes, facilitating exchange with and the Anatolian interior, while the volcanic soil and surrounding valleys supported cultivation of grains, olives, and vines. Early inhabitants likely organized around these resources under local leadership, with aristocratic families or dynasties managing communal affairs in the absence of documented formal institutions. By the early , Assos had emerged as a recognized , marked by the construction of basic fortifications to defend the and lower town against regional threats. Religious life focused on sites, particularly the worship of , whose sanctuary on the —later formalized with a Doric around 530 BC—underscored the city's protective and intellectual identity from its formative years.

Classical and Hellenistic Periods

During the , Assos underwent significant fortification efforts, including the construction of extensive city walls that encircled the settlement and , providing defense against regional threats and enduring as a key feature of the urban landscape through later periods. These defenses were likely bolstered in response to the shifting powers in western Asia Minor, as the city transitioned from Lydian influence to domination following the Great's conquest of around 546 BC. Under Achaemenid control from this time onward, Assos served as a coastal in the satrapy of , contributing to imperial administration and tribute systems while maintaining a degree of local Greek autonomy in cultural and religious affairs. The marked a dynamic phase of political flux for Assos, beginning with a brief era of independence under Hermias of Atarneus, who ruled from circa 348 to 341 BC after expanding his authority from nearby Atarneus. Hermias, a former associate of Plato's Academy, actively promoted philosophical discourse by inviting to establish a school in Assos around 348 BC, where the philosopher resided for several years and married Hermias's niece, . This period of local rule ended abruptly when Persian satraps captured and executed Hermias in 341 BC for suspected alliances with Macedonian interests, reimposing direct imperial oversight. Assos remained under Persian sway until 334 BC, when Alexander the Great's campaigns through Asia Minor liberated the city during his decisive victory over the Achaemenid forces, integrating it into the emerging Hellenistic world and ending centuries of Persian hegemony. In the Hellenistic era, Assos flourished as part of the Kingdom of under the Attalid dynasty from 241 to 133 BC, benefiting from the kingdom's patronage and strategic position in regional networks. The city's harbor supported vibrant maritime trade in goods such as timber, ceramics, and agricultural products across the Aegean, contributing to and urban development during this prosperous phase. Assos also minted its own coinage, including rare issues of tetradrachms in the early , which facilitated local commerce and underscored the city's integration into broader monetary systems. This era represented the zenith of Assos's classical and Hellenistic influence, blending Greek cultural traditions with the dynamic politics of successor kingdoms.

Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman Eras

Following the bequest of the Kingdom of to in 133 BC, Assos was incorporated into the of , marking the city's integration into the imperial administrative and economic framework of the empire. As a typical provincial center in western Asia Minor, Assos experienced a period of prosperity through the AD, benefiting from enhanced trade networks and urban development. The apostle visited Assos around 53–57 AD during his third missionary journey, where he rejoined his companions by ship after traveling overland from Troas, as recorded in Acts 20:13–14; this stop underscores the city's role along early Christian travel routes. infrastructure improvements, including the construction of an aqueduct by a provincial and integration into broader systems connecting coastal sites, supported local agriculture and commerce until the 4th century AD. The transition to the Byzantine era saw Assos Christianized, emerging as an from the 5th century onward, with the construction of at least five churches and two chapels in the 6th century, often repurposing structures like the and bathhouse for religious use. The city maintained economic vitality into the early 7th century, evidenced by luxury imports and coinage from Emperor Heraclius's reign (610–641 AD), while serving a defensive function against raids that plagued western Asia Minor from the mid-7th century. Major earthquakes in 447, 460, and 477/479 AD, followed by seismic activity in the 6th and 7th centuries, prompted urban rebuilding with and shifted the toward residential functions, contributing to gradual decline amid invasions and environmental pressures by the 13th century. In the late Byzantine period, the was fortified as a castrum to bolster defenses. Assos fell to Ottoman forces in the early , integrating into the expanding Islamic sultanate and transitioning from Byzantine Christian to Ottoman governance. The conquest facilitated the repurposing of ancient structures, including the use of from the Temple of Athena area in new constructions. In the late , during the reign of Sultan , the Hüdavendigar Mosque was commissioned on the northern edge of the , symbolizing the Ottoman overlay on the classical landscape. The city retained its harbor as a for like valonia oak until the , reflecting continued regional significance under Ottoman rule.

Modern Developments

In the 19th century, Assos experienced a revival through the interest of European travelers exploring Ottoman lands, who documented the site's ancient ruins and contributed to its rediscovery amid broader antiquarian pursuits in Anatolia. This period marked the site's entry into Western scholarship, with early systematic mappings and surveys conducted by British and American scholars as part of emerging archaeological efforts. Notably, the Archaeological Institute of America led excavations from 1881 to 1883 under directors J.T. Clarke and Francis H. Bacon, producing detailed reports, architectural drawings, and photographs that cataloged the acropolis, temple, and civic structures, establishing a foundational record of the site's layout and condition. Following the founding of the Turkish Republic in , Assos integrated into the new nation-state as part of the province of , transitioning from oversight to republican administration without significant disruption to its rural character. Excavations halted after the early 20th-century efforts, leading to periods of neglect, while post-World War II grew modestly due to economic recovery and infrastructure improvements, though Assos saw limited development as a destination compared to coastal hotspots like . Visitor access remained constrained by poor roads and political instability until the 1970s, when national tourism policies began promoting cultural sites, yet Assos functioned primarily as a local retreat rather than a major attraction. In the , Assos gained recognition with its inscription on UNESCO's Tentative List of World Heritage Sites in 2017, highlighting its architectural and philosophical significance and prompting enhanced preservation measures. Tourism has since surged, transforming the site into a sought-after holiday retreat with boutique hotels, seaside cafes, and guided tours drawing thousands annually, bolstered by its scenic Aegean views and proximity to . Recent conservation projects, including the restoration of the 2,200-year-old theater under Türkiye's "Legacy for the Future" initiative and ongoing monitoring by Turkish and teams, address structural decay while adapting to climate challenges such as and risks that threaten Anatolian archaeological sites. Recent excavations as of 2025 have uncovered historic ceramics from October 2024 and a well-preserved 2,200-year-old along with a monumental in early 2025, enhancing knowledge of Hellenistic and periods.

Archaeology

Early Explorations

The early explorations of Assos in the 19th century marked the site's introduction to Western scholarly attention, beginning with brief visits and surveys amid the broader European interest in Ottoman territories. In 1838, British diplomat and explorer Charles Fellows visited Assos (then known locally as Behram) during his excursion through Asia Minor, approaching the site from the north and documenting its impressive ruins under the guidance of a local Turkish escort. He described the dramatic topography, including the high cliffs and the Via Sacra lined with ancient tombs, while noting the Cyclopean-style Greek walls rising up to 30 feet without mortar, the richly ornamented theater, and the Temple of Athena perched on the acropolis with panoramic views toward Mytilene and Mount Ida. Fellows copied Greek inscriptions from temple friezes and tombs, sketched decorative elements such as bulls, sphinxes, and animal motifs on the structures, and highlighted the site's conglomerate and volcanic stone construction, publishing these observations in his 1839 journal that sparked initial academic curiosity about Assos's classical heritage. Building on such preliminary accounts, more structured surveys occurred in the 1880s under the auspices of the newly founded Archaeological Institute of America (AIA), which selected Assos for its inaugural classical excavation. American architect Francis H. Bacon, collaborating with Joseph Thacher Clarke, led fieldwork from 1881 to 1883, focusing on topographic mapping and architectural documentation rather than large-scale digging. Their efforts included detailed measurements and plans of the , the Street of Tombs, the theater, and , alongside rubbings of inscriptions and drawings of structural features like doorways in Graeco-Egyptian style. Key early finds documented during these surveys encompassed fragments of the Temple of Athena's friezes, sections of the city walls, a , sarcophagi, stelae, coins, , and a marble portrait head resembling , with Bacon emphasizing the site's Aeolian and its state of preservation despite local reuse of materials. These results were disseminated through sketches, photographs, and reports in AIA bulletins, further fueling interest in Assos among European and American scholars. These explorations faced significant hurdles, including restricted permissions via firmans that delayed operations and limited scope, chronic underfunding from sponsors, and rampant by locals and officials that threatened artifacts even before export attempts. Efforts to ship finds to the often failed due to bureaucratic obstacles and destruction risks, with some pieces lost by the early . Such challenges curtailed the depth of these initial endeavors, paving the way for more systematic excavations in subsequent decades.

Major Excavations and Discoveries

Systematic archaeological excavations at Assos resumed in 1981 under the auspices of the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism, marking the beginning of modern Turkish-led efforts at the site following earlier foreign initiatives. These excavations, initially directed by Ümit Serdaroğlu of Istanbul University, have focused extensively on key civic structures such as the agora and the theater, uncovering layers of urban development from the Hellenistic through Byzantine periods. Work in the agora has revealed commercial and public spaces integral to daily life, while theater excavations have exposed architectural enhancements from the Roman era, including seating and stage elements that highlight the site's cultural prominence. Significant discoveries from these 20th- and 21st-century digs have enriched understandings of Assos's and . In 2018, excavators unearthed a 2,300-year-old Hellenistic family inscribed with the name "Aristios," containing the remains of 21 individuals, some accompanied by strigils—curved scrapers used by athletes for oil removal during grooming rituals—suggesting connections to athletic or within the . A 2,200-year-old stone , dating to the 2nd century B.C. , was discovered in near the site's western , interpreted as a possible marker or symbolic guardian reflecting artistic influences from nearby centers. More recently, in 2023, a 1,700-year-old iron , likely a implement from the era, emerged from the (public fountain) area, providing evidence of activities in the ancient harbor . Additionally, a 1,500-year-old stone from the early Byzantine period, found in during residential area probes, offers insights into cooking practices during the site's phase. In 2024, excavations in residential areas uncovered historic ceramics, including fired-clay toilet vessels still usable today. In 2025, significant finds included a 2,200-year-old Hellenistic in , an 1,800-year-old Roman-period heroon (monumental tomb) dedicated to an influential family, a 14th-century early bathhouse, and a two-story Hellenistic exemplifying royal architectural influences. Excavation methodologies at Assos emphasize stratigraphic analysis to establish chronological sequences, for organic materials, and techniques to preserve fragile artifacts like mosaics and metals. These efforts have been bolstered by ongoing Turkish-German collaborations, particularly from 2010 to 2016, which integrated interdisciplinary approaches such as geophysical surveys and epigraphic studies to map subsurface features and interpret inscriptions. Such partnerships continue to guide current work, ensuring comprehensive documentation and protection of the site's multilayered heritage.

Cultural and Intellectual Legacy

Philosophical Associations

Assos emerged as a significant center for philosophical inquiry in the ancient world, particularly during the fourth century BCE, when it served as a hub for Platonic and early empirical studies under the patronage of local rulers. Following the death of in 347 BCE, , a prominent student of the , relocated to Assos at the invitation of Hermias, the tyrant of Atarneus and Assos, who had himself studied under . There, established a philosophical school, often regarded as a branch of the , in collaboration with fellow scholars such as and , fostering discussions on metaphysics, ethics, and natural sciences. This institution marked an early iteration of what would later evolve into the Peripatetic tradition, emphasizing ambulatory teaching and systematic inquiry. During his approximately three-year tenure in Assos from 348 to 345 BCE, conducted extensive biological research, leveraging the region's rich marine environment to study zoology and , which informed his later works such as . He married , Hermias's adopted daughter or niece, and the couple had a daughter named after her mother. 's time in Assos ended abruptly following Hermias's execution by Persian forces in 345 BCE, after which fled to to continue his studies with . This period not only solidified 's empirical approach to but also positioned Assos as a vital outpost for intellectual exchange between the Greek mainland and Asia Minor. Later, Assos contributed to the development of Stoicism through Cleanthes, born in the city around 331 BCE, before moving to Athens. As a boxer-turned-philosopher, Cleanthes studied under Zeno of Citium and eventually succeeded him as head of the Stoic school in 262 BCE, authoring numerous works that expanded Stoic cosmology and ethics with a strong emphasis on divine providence. His origins in Assos underscore the city's role in nurturing proto-Stoic ideas, bridging Platonic rationalism with emerging doctrines of resilience and natural law. Overall, Assos functioned as a key node for and proto-Stoic thought, hosting academies that facilitated interdisciplinary dialogue and empirical observation, though physical remnants of libraries or dedicated structures have not been conclusively identified in archaeological records. This legacy highlights the city's influence in transitioning from speculative toward integrated scientific and ethical frameworks.

Religious and Literary References

Assos holds a notable place in early Christian texts due to its association with the Apostle during his third missionary journey around 57 AD. According to the , Paul traveled on foot from Troas to Assos, a distance of approximately 30 kilometers, while his companions, including Luke, sailed ahead on a ship; the group reunited in Assos before continuing by sea to Mitylene on the island of . This stopover underscores Assos's role as a coastal waypoint in the across the . In , served as the primary deity of Assos, with her centered on the Doric temple constructed around 530 BCE atop the , the only such temple in Asia Minor. The temple housed a cult statue in its , accessible only to priests, while surrounding lands facilitated rituals and ceremonies honoring the goddess as protector of the city. As an Aeolian settlement founded by colonists from Methymna on nearby in the BCE, Assos shared cultural and religious ties with , where mystery cults flourished, potentially influencing local practices through regional exchanges. Literary references to Assos appear in classical and later works, highlighting its historical and geographical significance. The geographer , in his (Book 13.1.11), describes Assos as a well-fortified Aeolian city opposite , praising its walls, harbor, and the temple's prominence, while noting its foundation by Methymnaean settlers. Earlier allusions may contextualize Assos within broader narratives of Aeolian resistance during the Persian Wars, though direct mentions are sparse. During the Byzantine era, Assos transitioned to , evidenced by the construction of at least five basilicas and chapels in the AD, signaling a period of ecclesiastical growth and conversions amid the city's prosperity. Late antique inscriptions from the site further attest to Christian communities, reflecting the integration of the region into the Byzantine religious framework.

Monuments and Sites

Acropolis and Temple of Athena

The of Assos crowns the city's highest point at an elevation of 238 meters above sea level, forming a fortified sacred precinct that dominated the landscape and overlooked the toward the island of . This elevated platform, hewn from local , encompassed key ritual elements including monumental gates serving as the ceremonial entrance and a prominent altar positioned to the east of the temple, facilitating offerings to the patron deity. Symbolically, the acropolis embodied 's protective oversight of Assos, its commanding position ensuring visibility from approaching ships and reinforcing the goddess's role in safeguarding the . At the heart of the stands the , constructed around 530 BC in the —the only known example of this style in . The structure follows a peripteral plan, encircled by a of 34 Doric columns arranged in a 6-by-13 configuration, with six columns remaining upright today following restorations. Carved from local blocks quarried directly from the , the temple's measures 30.3 meters in length by 14.3 meters in width, blending strict Doric proportions with innovative Ionic influences in its sculpted friezes and architraves. Oriented along a northwest-southeast axis with its entrance facing east, the aligned with Anatolian traditions to greet the sunrise, while its perch provided sweeping vistas westward across the strait to , enhancing its visual prominence from the sea. The interior housed the cult statue of , though no traces remain, and the surrounding precinct allowed for communal rituals centered on the adjacent . Preservation efforts have focused on stabilizing the temple's core elements, including the replacement of deteriorated concrete drums in the columns with authentic between 2008 and 2011, ensuring the monument's legibility for visitors without compromising its ancient form. Scattered architectural fragments, such as reliefs and metopes, are displayed in museums including those in , , and , underscoring the temple's artistic significance. These initiatives contribute to the site's recognition on UNESCO's Tentative List of World Heritage Sites since 2017, highlighting its value as a testament to early architectural fusion in Asia Minor.

Theater and Civic Structures

The theater of Assos, constructed in the late BCE on a steep hillside overlooking the , exemplifies Hellenistic architectural ingenuity with its horseshoe-shaped cavea designed to seat approximately 5,000 spectators. As of 2025, the theater is undergoing , with the project nearing completion to restore its functionality for modern events. Built into the natural slope, the structure featured a wide of about 20.5 meters in diameter and a cavea spanning 68 meters, allowing for optimal acoustics and views of performances ranging from dramatic plays to civic assemblies. During the , minor adjustments enhanced its functionality, but significant Roman-era modifications in the late 1st century BCE and times included the addition of protective railings in the lower seating rows to safeguard audiences from gladiatorial combats and wild animal hunts, adapting the venue for more violent spectacles while preserving its role in public gatherings. Assos's civic structures, centered around the agora and supporting buildings from the 4th to 2nd centuries BCE, formed the heart of communal and political life in the Hellenistic city. The bouleuterion, a square council house founded at the end of the 4th century BCE, stands as one of the earliest examples in Asia Minor, featuring wooden benches along three walls and a main facade with five Doric pillars facing the agora, where city officials deliberated on governance matters. Adjacent to it, the agora—a terraced marketplace developed primarily in the 3rd to 2nd centuries BCE—comprised stoas on multiple levels for commercial exchange and social interaction, occasionally hosting philosophical discussions that echoed the city's intellectual vibrancy. Further northeast, the 2nd-century BCE gymnasium, measuring roughly 52 by 52 meters, served as a key institution for physical training and education, with open courtyards and porticoes facilitating athletic exercises and intellectual pursuits among the youth. Under influence, these civic spaces evolved to incorporate administrative functions, though the core Hellenistic layouts endured, reflecting Assos's adaptation to broader Mediterranean cultural shifts without major overhauls.

City Walls and Defenses

The fortifications of Assos, constructed primarily between the 6th and 3rd centuries BC, encompassed a circuit wall approximately 3.1 kilometers in length, encircling the city on its steep volcanic hill overlooking the . These walls were built using local stone in polygonal for the earliest phases, transitioning to more regular techniques in later Hellenistic periods, which allowed for a robust defense integrated with the natural terrain. The circuit featured around eight towers, some reaching heights of up to 14 meters while the walls rise to 12 meters, strategically placed to protect key approaches, including gates that facilitated access to the harbor below. Defensive design emphasized the site's , with the walls following the contours of the 238-meter-high and sheer cliffs, rendering much of the perimeter naturally impregnable and reducing the need for extensive man-made barriers on the seaward side. The was positioned outside the walls along the main eastern and western roads leading to the gates, containing graves dating back to the mid-7th century BC and serving as a that highlighted the separation between the living city and burial grounds. Repairs and reinforcements occurred under influence following a in 365 BC by combined and Carian forces, which the walls successfully withstood, and later during the Augustan period, when sections were restored to maintain the city's strategic port defenses. These fortifications exemplified Aeolian engineering prowess, blending local volcanic materials with Hellenistic to create a symbolically impregnable stronghold that supported Assos's role as a thriving coastal amid regional conflicts. The walls' endurance through sieges underscored their effectiveness, contributing to the city's cultural and economic resilience until .

Other Notable Remains

Beyond the primary civic and defensive structures, Assos features several utilitarian and later-era remains that highlight its evolving infrastructure and cultural layers. The Ottoman-era bridge spanning the Satnioeis River, constructed in the early following the , stands as a well-preserved example of medieval engineering, facilitating connectivity across the rugged terrain near the ancient site. The Hüdavendigar Mosque, built around 1380 during the reign of on the northern edge of the , exemplifies architectural adaptation through extensive use of from earlier Byzantine and classical structures. This single-domed, square-planned edifice incorporates repurposed columns, capitals, and an entrance door bearing an inscription from the ancient Cornelius Church, blending Islamic, Byzantine, and Hellenistic elements to symbolize and ; andesite stone and dominate its facades, with brick alone in the dome transitions. The , particularly the western sector, remains well-preserved and attests to continuous practices from the mid-7th century BCE through times, renowned for its production of high-quality sarcophagi that supplied regional markets. Within this area, rock-cut and monuments from Hellenistic and periods are scattered, alongside later overlays such as a middle Byzantine church erected atop a 5th-6th century baptismal structure, featuring early Byzantine floors in repurposed porticos. Scattered remnants of Hellenistic houses, including late Classical terraced residences, contribute to the site's uniform early Hellenistic urban fabric, reflecting planned domestic layouts integrated into the steep volcanic landscape. These structures, often built with local , underscore Assos's adaptation to its during the period of philosophical prominence.

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