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Coast

A coast is the transitional zone of indefinite width where land interfaces with the sea or ocean, including both the subaerial landforms above the waterline and the shallow submarine areas affected by wave action and sediment transport.^[1]^[2] This region is defined by its dynamic geology, where marine processes such as wave erosion, tidal currents, and longshore drift interact with terrestrial inputs like river sediment to form diverse features including sandy beaches, rocky cliffs, barrier islands, and deltas.^[3]^[4] Coasts are geologically active environments shaped by the balance between erosion, which removes material through hydraulic action and abrasion, and deposition, which builds landforms via sediment accumulation during periods of lower energy.^[5]^[3] Ecologically, they host highly productive systems with elevated biodiversity due to nutrient influx from both land and sea, supporting mangroves, salt marshes, and intertidal zones that serve as nurseries for fisheries and buffers against storms.^[6]^[7] Human settlement concentrates along coasts for access to maritime trade, ports, and resources, though this exposes populations to hazards like coastal erosion and inundation, with empirical observations showing variable rates of shoreline change driven by local tectonics, sea-level fluctuations, and sediment supply rather than uniform global trends.^[8]^[9]

Definition and Characteristics

Delineation from Adjacent Zones

The coast is empirically delineated as the transition zone between terrestrial landforms and marine environments, where marine processes such as tidal inundation and wave action directly influence land surface morphology and sediment dynamics. Landward, this boundary is marked by the inland limit of regular tidal exchange, which distinguishes coastal areas from adjacent non-tidal inland zones and can extend several kilometers in deltas or estuaries with pronounced tidal ranges.^[10] Seawater salinity gradients, typically exceeding 0.5 parts per thousand as a threshold for marine influence, further define this demarcation, as freshwater-dominated systems lack the osmotic and sedimentary signatures of coastal interaction.^[11] Seaward, the coast is bounded from open ocean realms by the shoreface profile, extending to the depth of closure—the offshore limit beyond which wave-induced changes in seabed elevation are negligible, often ranging from 5 to 20 meters depending on local conditions.^[12] Bathymetric gradients, sediment characteristics (e.g., coarser sands resisting erosion versus finer silts promoting deposition), and wave base—the depth at which oscillatory wave motion fails to mobilize bottom sediments—causally determine this extent, as steeper slopes and cohesive sediments confine active zones shallower while dissipative fine-grained seabeds allow broader influence.^[13] ^[14] These geophysical criteria are verified through precise measurements, including multibeam bathymetry for seabed profiling and shoreline positioning via differential GPS, which achieves sub-meter accuracy in mapping dynamic boundaries.^[15] Contemporary delineation integrates satellite altimetry to resolve sea surface elevations near coasts, correcting for land contamination in radar returns to track tidal and wave-influenced extents with resolutions approaching 1-2 km offshore.^[16] Historically, coastal boundaries were first systematically charted in the early 19th century through national hydrographic programs, such as the United States Coast Survey established in 1807, which used lead-line soundings and tidal observations to standardize mappings amid expanding maritime navigation needs.^[17] These efforts supplanted earlier ad hoc recognitions based on visible tidal bores and salt marsh distributions, providing the foundational data for causal understanding of coastal dynamics over purely observational limits.^[10]

Measurement Challenges and Fractal Nature

The coastline paradox, first formalized by mathematician Benoit Mandelbrot in 1967, reveals that coastlines lack a fixed length because they exhibit fractal properties, with self-similar irregularities repeating across scales.^[18] As measurement resolution increases—transitioning from large-scale units like 100 km to finer ones like 1 km—the recorded length grows without bound, reflecting statistical self-similarity rather than a smooth Euclidean line.^[19] This scale-dependence stems from the inherent roughness of natural boundaries, where smaller features (e.g., bays, inlets, and fjords) mimic larger ones, defying traditional dimensional analysis and implying a fractional dimension between one (line-like) and two (area-like).^[18] Empirical measurements illustrate this indeterminacy vividly. For Great Britain's mainland coastline, coarse mapping at a 100 km unit yields approximately 2,800 km, but refining to a 1 km unit extends it beyond 12,000 km, with further subdivision amplifying the figure indefinitely.^[20] Globally, estimates vary from roughly 350,000 km in low-resolution surveys (e.g., 1:10 million scale) to over 500,000 km in higher-detail assessments, as fractal complexity in rocky terrains—prevalent in regions like Norway's fjords—contrasts with smoother sandy shores, exacerbating inconsistencies.^[21] Tidal fluctuations compound these issues, shifting the instantaneous shoreline by meters to kilometers daily, particularly in macrotidal areas exceeding 4 m range, rendering static lengths provisional.^[22] In geographic information systems (GIS), consistency is pursued through standardized protocols, such as fixed-interval transects or baseline approximations at resolutions like 30 m from Landsat-derived data, enabling rate-of-change analyses via tools like the USGS Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS).^[23] ^[24] Recent 2020s satellite advancements, including multispectral imagery at sub-30 m resolution, have refined delineations for global datasets, improving intertidal zone mapping and reducing noise in dynamic monitoring.^[25] Yet, these efforts underscore the paradox's persistence: no universal length exists absent an arbitrary scale choice, informing cautious interpretations in fields from cartography to climate impact modeling.^[26]

Physical Attributes Influencing Dynamics

Coastal dynamics are shaped by substrate composition, which governs resistance to wave and current forces. Hard rock substrates, such as granite and basalt, exhibit low erosion rates, with median cliff recession around 2.9 cm per year globally, reflecting their durability against mechanical abrasion.^[27] In contrast, unconsolidated sandy substrates are highly mobile, prone to rapid transport and reshaping by littoral drift, supplying sediment to downdrift areas while offering minimal structural resistance.^[28] Cohesive clay or soft rock coasts erode more readily, with median rates up to 23 cm per year, amplifying retreat in energetic settings due to slumping and undercutting.^[27] Tidal range exerts control over hydrodynamic regimes, categorized as microtidal (mean spring range <2 m), mesotidal (2–4 m), or macrotidal (>4 m)./04:_Global_wave_and_tidal_environments/4.04:_Large-scale_variation_in_tidal_characteristics/4.4.01:_Global_tidal_environments) Macrotidal coasts feature amplified currents exceeding 1–2 m/s, driving extensive sediment reworking and barrier breaching, whereas microtidal systems experience subdued tidal flows (<0.5 m/s), shifting dominance to wave-driven processes./04:_Global_wave_and_tidal_environments/4.04:_Large-scale_variation_in_tidal_characteristics/4.4.01:_Global_tidal_environments) Wave exposure, determined by fetch length—the unobstructed distance over which wind generates waves—and prevailing wind patterns, quantifies energy input. Longer fetches, as along Atlantic margins, yield higher significant wave heights (typically 2–4 m annually) and power fluxes up to 30–50 kW/m, fostering erosive dominance.^[29] Sheltered coasts, such as those in enclosed seas, encounter reduced fetches (<500 km), resulting in wave energies below 10 kW/m and gentler interactions. Destructive waves, with steep profiles (height-to-wavelength ratio >1/20), high frequency (>12 waves per day), and pronounced backwash, erode substrates efficiently, while constructive waves (ratio <1/40, <8 waves per day) feature stronger swash for sediment buildup.^[30]^[31]

Geological Formation and Processes

Primary Formation Mechanisms

Coasts originate primarily from relative changes in sea level and land elevation, resulting from eustatic variations, tectonic deformation, and isostatic responses to glacial loading. Submergent coasts form when sea levels rise relative to the land, inundating preexisting topography such as river valleys or glacial troughs. This process has been dominant globally since the end of the Last Glacial Maximum approximately 20,000 years ago, when melting ice sheets drove a eustatic sea-level rise exceeding 120 meters.^[32]^[33] Resulting features include rias, which are drowned river mouths with branching estuaries, and fjords, steep-walled inlets carved by glaciers and subsequently flooded.^[34] These landforms characterize passive continental margins where subsidence outpaces minimal tectonic uplift, as seen along much of the U.S. East Coast.^[4] Emergent coasts arise from land uplift exceeding sea-level rise or from eustatic falls in sea level, exposing former submarine features like wave-cut platforms. Tectonic uplift at convergent plate boundaries, such as along the Pacific Ring of Fire, elevates coastal terrains rapidly, while post-glacial isostatic rebound dominates in formerly glaciated regions. In Scandinavia, GPS measurements indicate ongoing uplift rates of 5–10 mm per year, with higher values up to 10 mm per year in the northern Baltic Sea area due to viscoelastic mantle response to ice unloading.^[35]^[36] This rebound, initiated around 15,000 years ago, has raised shorelines by hundreds of meters since deglaciation, producing raised beaches and marine terraces.^[37] Neutral coasts reflect a quasi-equilibrium where relative sea-level changes are minimal over Holocene timescales, often on stable passive margins with low tectonic activity and negligible isostatic adjustment. Sediment core analyses from parts of the U.S. Gulf Coast reveal shoreline stability or progradation over the past few millennia prior to modern subsidence influences, indicating balanced eustatic and local subsidence rates.^[38] These coasts lack pronounced drowned valleys or elevated platforms, maintaining configurations shaped by long-term tectonic quiescence rather than dramatic level shifts.^[34]

Tectonic and Isostatic Influences

Tectonic plate boundary dynamics profoundly shape coastal morphology through vertical crustal movements and faulting. At convergent margins, where oceanic plates subduct beneath continental ones, ongoing compression and uplift generate steep, cliff-dominated coastlines resistant to erosion, as observed along the Pacific Ring of Fire encompassing the western Americas.^[39] Paleoseismological studies document fault slip rates exceeding several millimeters per year in these zones, contributing to episodic coastal deformation via earthquakes that elevate or scar landforms.^[40] In contrast, divergent boundaries facilitate crustal thinning and rifting, producing irregular coastlines with fault-block scarps and elongated basins, such as the East African Rift Zone where continental separation exposes rift valley coasts to marine inundation.^[41] Isostatic adjustments, driven by the redistribution of mass following glacial unloading, induce differential vertical motions that alter relative sea levels and coastal configurations. In regions formerly burdened by the Laurentide Ice Sheet, such as Hudson Bay, post-glacial rebound manifests as land uplift rates of approximately 1 cm per year, as quantified by GRACE satellite gravimetry data from the 2010s and 2020s, which reveal mass loss signals consistent with ongoing crustal recovery.^[42] This uplift locally counteracts eustatic sea-level rise, preserving raised beaches and prograding shorelines, with rates peaking near 11 mm/year in southeastern Hudson Bay based on integrated geodetic models.^[43] Volcanic activity, often linked to tectonic hotspots or arc systems, contributes bold promontories and extended coastal platforms via effusive lava flows that armor shorelines against wave attack. On Hawaii, Holocene eruptions from shield volcanoes like Kilauea have extruded basaltic flows forming resistant headlands, with radiocarbon dating of intercalated organics confirming activity within the past 10,000 years, including flows dated to 1,500–2,000 years ago that directly impinge on existing coastlines.^[44]^[45] These endogenous processes underscore the dominance of lithospheric forces in dictating long-term coastal architecture over shorter-term surficial dynamics.

Sedimentary and Erosional Cycles

Coastal sedimentary and erosional cycles involve the continuous transport, deposition, and removal of sediments driven primarily by wave action and currents, maintaining dynamic equilibrium in littoral zones. Longshore drift, the dominant mechanism of sediment movement parallel to the shore, redistributes sand and gravel within defined littoral cells, where inputs from rivers and headland erosion balance outputs via offshore losses and alongshore export.^[46] Human interventions, such as jetties at harbor entrances, disrupt this balance by trapping sediment updrift while causing downdrift erosion through reduced transport rates, as observed in numerous inlet-stabilized systems where net longshore flux decreases substantially during storms.^[47] Sediment budget models quantify these imbalances, revealing deficits in cells interrupted by such structures, with downdrift beaches experiencing accelerated retreat due to insufficient replenishment.^[48] Erosion rates along coasts vary significantly with substrate lithology and exposure, with empirical data indicating medians of 0.029 m/year for hard rocks, 0.10 m/year for medium rocks, and 0.23 m/year for weak rocks based on global cliff recession analyses.^[49] In unconsolidated sediments like glacial boulder clay, rates escalate; the Holderness coast in the United Kingdom erodes at an average of 2 m/year, releasing approximately 2 million tonnes of material annually due to the soft, easily weathered nature of these deposits under wave attack.^[50] Tracer studies and volumetric assessments confirm that such erosion supplies sediment to adjacent depositional zones, but chronic deficits arise when artificial barriers prevent redistribution, leading to net losses in affected cells.^[46] These processes exhibit cyclic patterns, with intense storm events driving rapid offshore sediment removal and cliff undercutting, followed by gradual fair-weather accretion that rebuilds beaches through onshore transport.^[51] Sediment cores from saltmarshes and barriers preserve layered evidence of these alternations, showing coarse storm deposits overlain by finer fair-weather laminations, spanning multiple centuries and linking episodic erosion to prevailing wave climates.^[52] Dendrochronological records from coastal trees further corroborate this cyclicity, revealing growth anomalies tied to burial during accretional phases or exposure from erosional cutbacks, thus providing proxy data for reconstructing long-term budget fluctuations independent of direct instrumental measurements.^[53] Overall, these cycles underscore the resilience of coastal systems to natural variability, though anthropogenic alterations amplify erosional dominance in many locales.^[54]

Classifications and Types

Morphological and Genetic Categories

Coasts are morphologically classified according to the degree of concordance between the coastline orientation and the underlying geological structures, a criterion that empirically delineates patterns of exposure to marine forces. Concordant coasts exhibit rock strata, folds, or other structures aligned parallel to the shoreline, producing relatively uniform and linear profiles with limited embayments, as observed in tectonically controlled straight coasts.^[55]^[56] Discordant coasts, conversely, feature geological structures transverse or perpendicular to the coast, yielding irregular morphologies where resistant and weaker materials alternate, such as in settings with dipping strata intersecting the shore at angles.^[56]^[57] Genetic classification distinguishes coasts based on dominant formative agents, originating from Eduard Suess's late 19th-century framework that separates primary coasts—shaped chiefly by terrestrial or non-marine processes like tectonic movements, subaerial erosion, volcanism, or fluvial deposition—from secondary coasts, which have been substantially reworked by marine erosion, sedimentation, or biological activity.^[58] Primary coasts retain youthful terrestrial signatures, including fault-line scarps from recent tectonic activity or volcanic landforms unmodified by waves, comprising approximately 30-40% of global coastlines according to mid-20th-century assessments refined by later mapping.^[59] Secondary coasts, predominant worldwide, reflect overlay of marine modifications on prior landforms, such as smoothed erosional cliffs or accumulated barriers, with transitions evident in regions like the U.S. Atlantic margin where glacial deposits have been reshaped.^[60] This dichotomy, while simplified, accommodates empirical updates from remote sensing, highlighting causal primacy of non-marine origins in primary types versus superimposed marine dominance in secondary ones.^[58] Within morphological subtypes, rivieras denote steep, rocky coasts where elevated terrain abuts the sea with minimal alluvial plains, typically arising from tectonic uplift and subdued sedimentation, as exemplified by Mediterranean segments with abrupt descents from coastal ranges.^[61] These contrast with low-relief depositional shores, featuring resistant bedrock exposures and narrow shelves that limit sediment trapping, fostering profiles resistant to rapid change absent significant subsidence or transgression.^[62]

Emergent, Submergent, and Compound Coasts

Emergent coasts form through tectonic uplift or post-glacial isostatic rebound that elevates former submarine or intertidal features above present sea level, as evidenced by stratigraphic sequences of marine sediments overlain by terrestrial deposits and dated via radiocarbon on shells or OSL on associated sands.^[63] Key indicators include raised beaches—accumulations of gravel and sand from past shorelines—and elevated wave-cut platforms, which are erosional benches incised by waves into bedrock and subsequently stranded inland.^[64] Fossil shorelines, such as shell beds or abrasion notches, further confirm emergence, with relative motion rates inferred from terrace elevations and dated benchmarks; for example, California's Pacific coast exhibits uplifted marine terraces preserving Pliocene-to-Pleistocene wave-cut platforms, reflecting ongoing tectonic compression along the San Andreas Fault system.^[63] These features enable reconstruction of uplift histories, with inner terrace edges tracking fault slip and regional deformation.^[65] Submergent coasts arise from eustatic sea-level rise or tectonic subsidence that floods preexisting coastal plains and valleys, identifiable through drowned fluvial morphology in seismic profiles and core samples containing transgressive ravinement surfaces—erosional unconformities marking the landward migration of the shoreline.^[66] Prominent landforms include estuaries from inundated river mouths and barrier islands, which develop as sand spits or offshore bars migrate landward during transgression and stabilize with reduced accommodation space.^[67] Radiocarbon dating of basal peats or shells in back-barrier marshes dates the onset of flooding; on the U.S. Atlantic coast, Holocene sea-level rise post-~11,000 BP drowned ancestral drainages, forming rias like Delaware Bay, while barrier chains such as the Outer Banks emerged around 7,000–4,000 BP as transgression slowed and sediment supply from rivers and longshore transport built protective spits.^[66] This submergence history contrasts with stable or emergent margins by preserving submerged paleochannels detectable via multibeam bathymetry.^[68] Compound coasts display superimposed evidence of alternating emergence and submergence phases, often from fluctuating glacio-eustatic cycles or localized tectonics, revealed in vertical stratigraphic stacking where emergent terraces cap submergent paleovalleys or relict dunes bury drowned platforms, dated via integrated U/Th, radiocarbon, and OSL chronologies.^[69] These polygenetic margins exhibit hybrid landforms, such as elevated barrier remnants overlying estuarine fills, indicating episodic relative sea-level changes; for instance, southeastern Australian coasts feature Holocene relict foredunes—aeolian sands OSL-dated to ~6,000–2,000 BP—perched atop submerged Pleistocene platforms, reflecting initial postglacial submergence followed by minor emergence or stabilization amid low tectonic rates.^[69] Such sequences inform predictive geomorphology by highlighting inheritance effects, where older emergent features modulate responses to subsequent submergence.^[70]

Energy Regimes and Wave Interactions

Coastal energy regimes are primarily driven by wave action, with secondary contributions from tides and currents, where wave energy is determined by factors such as fetch—the unobstructed distance over which wind generates waves—and refraction, the bending of wave crests due to varying water depths that concentrates energy on promontories and dissipates it in embayments.^[71]^[72] Wave power, proportional to the square of wave height and period, classifies coasts into high-energy regimes on exposed fetch-limited shores subject to persistent strong winds, versus low-energy regimes in sheltered areas with short fetch and reduced wind exposure.^[71] High-energy coasts feature destructive waves characterized by short periods (typically under 10 seconds), steep profiles, and heights exceeding 2 meters, promoting erosion through dominant backwash that exceeds swash on steep beaches; examples include the storm-prone North Sea, where significant wave heights routinely surpass 3 meters in winter under fetch from prevailing westerlies.^[30]^[73] In contrast, low-energy coasts exhibit constructive waves with longer periods (over 10 seconds), lower heights (under 1 meter), and swash dominance that facilitates sediment deposition on wide, dissipative shores. Empirical breaker indices, defined as the ratio of breaking wave height to water depth (γ ≈ 0.5–1.2 depending on beach slope and wave steepness), quantify these dynamics, with lower γ values indicating spilling breakers in dissipative low-energy settings and higher γ for plunging breakers in reflective high-energy ones.^[74]^[75] Tidal modulation amplifies or attenuates wave energy in macrotidal regimes (tidal range >4 meters), where strong currents interact with waves to alter breaker characteristics and energy dissipation; in the Bay of Fundy, tidal ranges reach extremes of 16 meters due to resonant amplification in the funnel-shaped basin, enhancing tidal currents up to 5–6 knots that scour sediments and modulate wave heights during flood and ebb phases.^[76]^[77] Such interactions overlay hydrodynamic variability on morphological classifications, explaining differential erosion rates within similar coastal types, as refraction and tidal phasing redistribute energy spatially.^[71]^[78]

Landforms and Features

Erosional Landforms

Coastal cliffs form through the undercutting action of waves, which erode a notch at the base via hydraulic action, abrasion, and corrosion, leading to gravitational collapse of the overlying material.^[79] This process creates steep faces, with erosion rates varying by rock type and wave energy; for instance, the White Cliffs of Dover have retreated at 22-32 cm per year over the past 150 years, accelerated from earlier rates of 2-6 cm per year.^[80] ^[81] Field measurements using LiDAR and photogrammetry confirm short-term variability, with some cliffs showing monthly rates up to 28.8 cm in high-energy events.^[82] Further erosion of headlands produces sea caves in weaker rock zones, which enlarge and connect through arches; subsequent collapse of the arch roof isolates stacks as isolated pillars.^[79] These features exploit geological joints and bedding planes, with stacks representing advanced stages of subtractive morphology before reduction to stumps.^[83] Wave-cut platforms emerge as abrasion bevels the cliff base at or near mean low water level, forming gently sloping benches of exposed rock during low tide.^[84] In Australia, such platforms in Victoria's Waratah Bay developed across Paleozoic bedrock during Quaternary sea-level fluctuations, with preserved features indicating Pleistocene formation timelines inferred from stratigraphic correlations.^[85] On discordant coastlines, where rock strata are perpendicular to the shore, differential erosion rates sculpt headlands from resistant lithologies and bays from softer materials, as waves refract and concentrate energy on protruding sections.^[86] Softer rocks like clay erode faster than harder chalk or limestone, creating indented bays between protruding headlands aligned with fetch directions.^[57] This pattern is evident in field observations of varying recession, with global cliff datasets reporting average rates of 0.3-0.5 m per year in soft sedimentary coasts.^[49]

Depositional and Sedimentary Features

Depositional coastal features arise from a positive sediment budget, where supply from rivers, waves, and winds exceeds erosional losses, leading to net accumulation and progradation. These landforms, including beaches, spits, barriers, deltas, and dunes, develop through sediment transport processes such as longshore drift and aeolian redistribution, often achieving dynamic equilibrium profiles shaped by wave energy and grain characteristics. Sediment budgets dictate their evolution; for instance, fluvial inputs historically drove deltaic advance, while interruptions like dams induce reversal to erosion.^[87] Beaches represent the primary depositional interface, consisting of unconsolidated sediments sorted zonally by hydrodynamic forces, with coarser grains typically dominating steeper profiles under higher wave energy. Grain size influences permeability and backwash efficiency, where coarser sediments reduce offshore transport, promoting retention on reflective beaches. Spits form as linear accumulations extending from headlands via longshore sediment drift, enclosing bays and stabilizing when vegetation colonizes, as evidenced by historical mapping of river-mouth spits governed by predicted transport rates. Beach cusps, rhythmic scalloped patterns along the swash zone, emerge from interference patterns like standing edge waves, which organize sediment deposition into horns of coarser material separated by finer embayments.^[88]^[87]^[89] Barrier islands and cheniers develop through Holocene progradation, where rising sea levels post-glacial maximum allowed barrier migration and spit elongation across subsiding shelves. These features rely on ample sand supply to maintain lagoons and overwash deposits, with wave reworking promoting cyclical accretion in wave-influenced settings. Deltas exemplify fluvial dominance in deposition, as seen in the Nile Delta, which prograded seaward by approximately 50 km over the past 5,000 years via annual flood sediments before the 1964 Aswan High Dam trapped over 95% of supply, shifting to coastal retreat rates exceeding 100 meters per year in exposed sectors.^[90]^[91]^[92] Aeolian dunes, particularly foredunes, form landward of beaches as wind transports sand inland, with vegetation enhancing trapping efficiency and stabilizing accumulations against deflation. Foredunes capture significant portions of beach-derived sand, fostering blowout prevention and inland migration under onshore winds, as demonstrated in field calibrations of transport dynamics. These features underscore the interplay of sediment budgets, where deficits from upstream damming or overwash disrupt growth, while surpluses enable parabolic or transverse dune fields.^[93]^[94]

Biogenic and Structural Formations

Coral reefs represent prominent biogenic formations, constructed through the calcification of scleractinian corals, coralline algae, and other organisms that secrete calcium carbonate frameworks. These structures manifest as fringing reefs adjacent to shorelines, barrier reefs separated by lagoons, or atolls encircling subsided volcanic remnants, influencing coastal morphology by promoting sediment trapping and vertical growth. In the Great Barrier Reef, uranium-thorium dating of reef cores indicates mixed framework and sediment accretion rates averaging approximately 12.4 mm per year over Holocene timescales.^[95] Such accretion enables reefs to maintain elevation relative to sea-level fluctuations, with mid-Holocene rates in inshore fringing reefs reaching up to 4.6 mm per year based on averaged paleoenvironmental reconstructions.^[96] Mangrove forests contribute to biogenic stabilization in tropical and subtropical intertidal zones, where specialized root systems—such as prop roots of Rhizophora species and pneumatophores of Avicennia—bind sediments and dissipate hydrodynamic forces. These adaptations trap fine suspended particles during tidal inundation, fostering accretion and elevating substrates while reducing shear stress on underlying soils.^[97] Mangroves thereby attenuate wave heights and currents, mitigating shoreline retreat, as evidenced by their role in promoting sediment deposition and limiting erosion in storm-prone areas.^[98] Salt marshes, dominated by halophytic grasses like Spartina alterniflora, exhibit vertical accretion primarily through belowground organic matter accumulation and episodic mineral sediment inputs during floods. In Louisiana's Mississippi River deltaic marshes, marker horizon studies reveal mean accretion rates of 12.8 mm per year, with variations tied to sediment supply; these rates historically outpaced local subsidence before 20th-century levee construction reduced fluvial inputs.^[99] Such biogenic elevation allows marshes to counteract relative sea-level rise, maintaining platform integrity against transgressive tendencies.^[100] Structural formations, distinct in their reliance on inherited sediment bodies rather than ongoing biological construction, include tombolos—narrow depositional bars or isthmuses linking offshore islands to adjacent mainland via longshore transport. These features arise where wave refraction and diffraction concentrate sediment around resistant topographic highs, forming emergent connections. Chesil Beach in Dorset, UK, exemplifies a tombolo comprising 18 km of graded shingle, initiated from sandy Lyme Bay deposits remobilized during post-glacial sea-level rise between 20,000 and 14,000 years ago, with subsequent longshore drift from eroding Jurassic cliffs sustaining its profile.^[101]^[102] Tombolos alter local hydrodynamics by sheltering leeward lagoons, such as the Fleet behind Chesil, while resisting breaching through coarse clast armoring.^[103]

Ecosystems and Biodiversity

Coastal Aquatic Habitats

Coastal aquatic habitats encompass the nearshore waters where oceanic and terrestrial influences converge, creating dynamic transitional ecosystems characterized by steep physicochemical gradients in salinity, temperature, nutrients, and turbidity. These zones exhibit high primary productivity due to nutrient enrichment from riverine inputs and coastal processes, supporting diverse microbial, planktonic, and nektonic communities. Empirical measurements from conductivity-temperature-depth (CTD) casts reveal sharp salinity and temperature stratifications, often forming fronts that concentrate plankton and serve as foraging areas for higher trophic levels.^[104] Estuaries and coastal lagoons function as mixing zones where freshwater inflows meet marine waters, resulting in elevated turbidity from suspended sediments and high nutrient loads that fuel phytoplankton blooms. Estuaries retain a substantial portion of incoming riverine sediments, with northern estuaries trapping the bulk of their inputs alongside additional marine-derived materials, thereby stabilizing benthic environments and enhancing organic matter deposition. Globally, estuaries contribute approximately 16% of non-oceanic fisheries yields through nursery functions for larval and juvenile fish, underscoring their role in secondary production despite covering less than 1% of the ocean surface. Lagoons, often shallow and semi-enclosed, amplify nutrient retention and exhibit seasonal turbidity variations driven by precipitation and tidal mixing, promoting eutrophic conditions that boost algal productivity but also risk hypoxia.^[105]^[106]^[107] Benthic zones in coastal soft sediments host infaunal communities of polychaetes, bivalves, and crustaceans that bioturbate substrates, facilitating nutrient cycling and organic decomposition. These assemblages thrive in muddy or silty deposits, where low oxygen penetration depths limit vertical distribution, and sediment grain size dictates species composition—finer particles supporting deposit feeders. Infauna densities can reach thousands per square meter, contributing to ecosystem engineering by altering porewater chemistry and supporting overlying pelagic food webs.^[104]^[108] Eastern boundary currents, such as the Humboldt (Peru) Current, drive upwelling that elevates productivity across narrow coastal bands, bringing nutrient-rich deep waters to the photic zone. These systems, spanning less than 1% of ocean area, account for up to 20% of global fisheries catches through sustained phytoplankton blooms that underpin anchoveta and sardine populations. The Humboldt Current specifically supports 10-20% of worldwide marine fish landings, with peak productivity during austral winter upwelling favorable winds. Ocean fronts associated with these gradients act as biodiversity hotspots, aggregating zooplankton and micronekton via convergence and enhanced retention.^[109]^[110]^[111]

Terrestrial and Intertidal Biota

Intertidal zones exhibit distinct vertical banding of biota, driven by tidal exposure gradients that impose varying durations of submersion, desiccation, and wave stress. In the upper intertidal, barnacles such as Balanus glandula predominate, with their upper distributional limit set by tolerance to aerial exposure and desiccation, while their lower boundary is influenced by competition and predation.^[112] Algal bands, including Fucus spp. in the mid-intertidal, form conspicuous green and brown zones adapted to periodic inundation, providing substrate for epiphytes and grazers. Gastropods like periwinkle snails (Littorina spp.) occupy the high to mid-intertidal, employing behavioral adaptations such as retreating into shell crevices and physiological osmoregulation to maintain internal salt balance during emersion, enabling survival in fluctuating salinity regimes up to 50% seawater concentration.^[113] Terrestrial coastal vegetation includes halophytic plants specialized for saline, wind-exposed environments. In salt marshes, smooth cordgrass (Spartina alterniflora) thrives as a facultative halophyte, excreting excess salts through glandular structures on leaf blades and tolerating interstitial salinities exceeding 30 ppt via ion exclusion at roots.^[114]^[115] These species form dense stands that trap sediments, with root systems enhancing soil accretion rates by 1-5 mm annually in temperate marshes. On dunes, marram grass (Ammophila arenaria) stabilizes foredunes through extensive rhizomatous growth, binding sand particles and increasing slope shear resistance; experimental comparisons of vegetated versus bare dunes demonstrate that marram reduces erosion susceptibility during storms by reinforcing substrate cohesion.^[116] Coastal areas support migratory shorebirds and select mammals reliant on intertidal foraging. Banding and GPS tracking data reveal that species such as lesser yellowlegs (Tringa flavipes) concentrate along Atlantic and Pacific flyways, with stopover durations averaging 10-20 days at coastal wetlands to replenish fat reserves for non-stop flights exceeding 2,000 km.^[117]^[118] Terrestrial mammals like coyotes (Canis latrans) and raccoons (Procyon lotor) exhibit coastal distributions influenced by prey availability, with adaptations including enlarged nasal glands for salt excretion in diets incorporating marine carrion, though their ranges extend inland without strict coastal endemism.^[119] These biota collectively buffer coastal soils against erosion while depending on zonation-specific tolerances to salinity, desiccation, and nutrient pulses from tides.

Ecological Interactions and Services

Coastal ecosystems mediate critical nutrient cycling processes, retaining terrestrial inputs and exporting organic matter to the open ocean, where continental shelves and margins account for approximately 80% of global marine organic carbon burial despite comprising only about 7-10% of the seafloor area.^[120] This burial, estimated at 248 Tg C yr⁻¹ in margin sediments, enhances long-term carbon storage and regulates atmospheric CO₂ levels through sedimentary processes that outpace remineralization in deeper waters.^[120] Nutrient retention in coastal zones, including nitrogen and phosphorus from riverine sources, supports primary productivity gradients, with shelves facilitating up to 75% of river-supplied nitrogen delivery to offshore ecosystems while minimizing eutrophication hotspots.^[121]^[122] These systems bolster ecological resilience through habitat-mediated services, such as wave energy dissipation by vegetated wetlands, which can reduce storm surge heights by factors of 2-10 meters over distances of several kilometers, thereby preserving sediment stability and habitat integrity.^[123] Mangroves exemplify high-efficiency carbon sequestration, accumulating 2-4 times more carbon per unit area than mature tropical forests, with soil stocks often exceeding 1,000 Mg C ha⁻¹ due to anaerobic conditions that inhibit decomposition.^[124] Such feedbacks contribute to system carrying capacity by maintaining trophic productivity; for instance, oyster reefs in temperate estuaries enhance water clarity via bivalve filtration, with individuals clearing 3-12.5 gallons of water daily under ambient conditions, promoting phytoplankton control and benthic light penetration essential for seagrass persistence.^[125] Coastal biodiversity hotspots amplify these interactions, concentrating productivity and species richness in shelf and nearshore domains that represent roughly 8% of ocean area but sustain elevated rates of endemism and functional diversity. Keystone trophic webs, including predator-prey dynamics in intertidal zones, regulate population carrying capacities; for example, herbivorous fishes and invertebrates in coral-adjacent reefs graze algae, preventing phase shifts to macroalgal dominance and preserving calcification rates that underpin reef accretion at 1-10 mm yr⁻¹. Empirical metrics from resilient systems, such as mangrove-oyster synergies, demonstrate enhanced resilience, with filtration and root stabilization collectively supporting biomass turnover rates 3-5 times higher than adjacent unvegetated sediments.^[126]

Human Engagement and Economic Role

Population Distribution and Settlements

Approximately 40% of the world's population resides within 100 kilometers of a coastline, a figure that has grown from about 2 billion people in 1990 to over 3 billion by the late 2010s due to economic opportunities tied to maritime access.^[127]^[128] This concentration reflects empirical patterns of human preference for coastal zones, driven by reliable access to protein-rich fisheries and efficient overland-water transport interfaces that reduce trade costs compared to inland locations.^[129]^[130] Population densities peak in river deltas and estuaries, where fertile sediments support agriculture alongside marine resources; the Ganges-Brahmaputra delta, for instance, sustains over 400 million people across its basin with average densities exceeding 390 people per square kilometer, making it one of the most densely settled coastal regions globally.^[131]^[132] Similar patterns occur in other deltas like the Nile and Mekong, where alluvial plains enable intensive rice cultivation and fishing, historically drawing settlements despite periodic flooding, as humans adapted through raised structures and canal systems predating modern engineering.^[133] Coastal settlements trace back to the Bronze Age, when Mediterranean ports such as those in the Aegean and Levant emerged as hubs for seafaring and resource exchange, with sites like Aegina and Kommos facilitating trade in metals and goods that underpinned early empires.^[134]^[135] These locations prioritized defensive hilltops near anchorages, balancing vulnerability to raids with advantages in maritime connectivity that inland areas lacked.^[136] In the modern era, coastal megacities exemplify this enduring calculus, with Tokyo's metropolitan area—abutting Tokyo Bay—housing 37 million residents as of the early 2020s, its density sustained by port infrastructure that historically mitigated tidal risks through seawalls and land reclamation.^[137]^[138] Such concentrations persist because the caloric and economic yields from adjacent seas—via fisheries providing up to 20% of global animal protein—outweigh unmanaged hazards, with pre-industrial diking and harbor works demonstrating proactive risk reduction.^[139]^[129]

Resource Extraction and Trade

Coastal fisheries provide a primary resource extraction activity, with global capture production reaching 92.3 million tonnes in 2022, predominantly from marine waters.^[140] Approximately 600 million people worldwide rely on fisheries and aquaculture for their livelihoods, underscoring the sector's role in food security and employment.^[141] These activities concentrate along coastlines, where nearshore stocks support small-scale and industrial operations, contributing to protein needs for over 3 billion individuals globally.^[142] Offshore oil and gas extraction represents another major coastal resource, accounting for about 37% of global oil production and 28% of natural gas output.^[143] In the North Sea, commercial production began in 1975 with fields like Forties, transforming regional economies through sustained yields until peaking around 2000. Such operations rely on coastal infrastructure for drilling platforms, pipelines, and export terminals, highlighting the linkage between marine extraction and land-based logistics. Maritime ports facilitate the bulk of global trade, handling over 80% of goods by volume via containerized and bulk shipments.^[144] The Port of Shanghai, for instance, processed 49 million twenty-foot equivalent units (TEUs) in 2023, exemplifying how coastal hubs serve as arteries for commodities like oil, minerals, and manufactures.^[145] These facilities enable efficient transfer from extraction sites to inland distribution, with dredging and expansion maintaining navigability for supertankers and mega-carriers. Coastal mineral extraction includes solar evaporation of seawater in ponds to produce salt, a method yielding commercial-grade sodium chloride through sequential concentration in shallow basins. Aggregates like sand are dredged from nearshore beds for construction, while phosphate-rich deposits, such as those associated with Morocco's 70% share of global reserves, support fertilizer production via coastal mining and export.^[146] These activities leverage tidal access and natural gradients, contributing to industrial supply chains without overlapping broader ecological or settlement dynamics.

Tourism, Recreation, and Cultural Value

Coastal tourism constitutes a major component of the global tourism industry, with beach tourism valued at approximately $281 billion in 2024 and projected to reach $466.7 billion by 2033.^[147] Coastal and marine tourism accounts for about half of all global tourism expenditures, contributing roughly 10% to world GDP according to World Bank estimates.^[148] In the United States, beaches attract 3.4 billion annual visits, generating around $240 billion in tourist spending.^[147] Florida's beaches alone provide an annual recreational value of about $50 billion, underscoring their outsized economic role in leisure-driven activities.^[149] Recreational pursuits at coasts, such as swimming, sunbathing, and beachcombing, draw the majority of visitors, far exceeding other attractions; U.S. beach visits surpass combined attendance at national parks, theme parks, and zoos by over 225%.^[150] Surfing exemplifies specialized coastal recreation, with events like Hawaii's Triple Crown of Surfing injecting $21 million into Oahu's economy in 2010 through direct spending on lodging, food, and services.^[151] These activities yield intangible benefits, including elevated vitamin D levels from sunlight exposure, which supports bone health, immune function, and mood regulation via endorphin release.^[152] Coasts hold enduring cultural value as sites of leisure and inspiration, with Roman-era infrastructure like villas and roads along the French Riviera laying early foundations for seasonal retreats that evolved into modern resort lifestyles.^[153] From prehistoric settlements onward, coastal zones have symbolized renewal and vitality, fostering traditions of seaside sojourns that persist in contemporary cultural narratives.^[129] This heritage enhances tourism's appeal, blending natural allure with historical resonance to sustain visitor interest across millennia.^[154]

Management and Engineering Practices

Historical Interventions

The use of durable Roman concrete in coastal structures, incorporating volcanic ash and lime, enabled seawalls and harbors to withstand marine exposure for over 2,000 years, as evidenced by intact examples across the Mediterranean and European coasts where self-healing mechanisms involving lime clasts repaired cracks through reaction with seawater.^[155]^[156] This material's longevity contrasted with later formulations, demonstrating early engineering's capacity to counter erosion and tidal forces without modern reinforcements. In the medieval period, the Dutch initiated systematic land reclamation through polders, beginning in the 12th century with drainage of marshes and fenlands via dikes and windmills, ultimately reclaiming approximately 17% of the nation's land area from the sea by the 20th century—totaling over 7,800 square kilometers since the 1300s.^[157]^[158] These interventions transformed flood-prone deltas into arable farmland, sustaining population growth and agriculture despite subsidence risks, with empirical records showing sustained productivity in low-lying areas below sea level. Nineteenth-century advancements in the United States included the construction of jetties to stabilize harbor entrances against sedimentation and wave action; for instance, the Galveston jetties, completed in the 1890s, deepened the channel to accommodate vessels drawing 21 feet by 1896, facilitating trade growth prior to the 1900 hurricane that prompted further seawall enhancements.^[159] These rubble-mound structures reduced inlet shoaling, as verified by navigational records, exemplifying hydraulic engineering's role in securing commercial ports. The Thames Barrier, operational since 1982 following construction in the 1970s, represents a pivotal 20th-century intervention, with gates closed 221 times by 2024 to avert tidal surges, preventing over 100 potential floods in London and upstream areas based on operational logs.^[160] Its movable design has empirically maintained estuarine stability amid rising storm frequencies, underscoring scalable barriers' effectiveness in urban coastal defense.

Contemporary Coastal Protection Techniques

Contemporary coastal protection techniques encompass both hard engineering structures and softer, nature-based methods, with evaluations emphasizing cost-effectiveness, durability, and long-term sediment dynamics. Hard engineering, dominant since the post-1950s era of intensified coastal development, includes seawalls and groynes designed to directly interrupt wave energy and retain beach sediment. Seawalls, rigid barriers typically constructed from concrete or rock, provide short-term protection against erosion and flooding by reflecting or dissipating waves, yet they often exacerbate downdrift or flanking erosion by disrupting natural longshore sediment transport, leading to accelerated beach loss adjacent to the structure.^[161] Groynes, perpendicular barriers extending into the water, trap sand on their updrift side to widen beaches but similarly induce erosion on the downdrift flank, with effectiveness limited to localized areas and requiring ongoing maintenance to mitigate these imbalances.^[162] Meta-analyses of shoreline hardening indicate these structures maintain structural integrity for decades under moderate conditions but incur high lifecycle costs due to repair needs and unintended erosion propagation, often necessitating supplementary interventions.^[163] Soft engineering approaches, gaining prominence from the 1990s onward, prioritize working with natural processes to enhance resilience while minimizing ecological disruption. Beach nourishment, a primary soft technique, entails dredging and placing compatible sand to restore eroded profiles and buffer against storms; in the United States, over 1.2 billion cubic meters of sand have been deployed across 475 communities since 1923, with recent annual volumes supporting extensive renourishment programs at costs averaging under $10 per cubic meter for material alone, though full project expenses per meter of beach length range from $10 to $20 depending on site specifics and frequency.^[164]^[165] This method restores natural beach gradients and habitat value but demands periodic replenishment—typically every 5-10 years—as nourished sand erodes at rates comparable to native material, with durability enhanced by matching grain size to local conditions. Hybrid strategies integrate soft and hard elements; the Netherlands' "Building with Nature" paradigm, formalized in the 2010s, exemplifies this through mega-scale sand suppletions like the 2011 Sand Motor project, a 21.5 million cubic meter peninsula off Delftland that leverages currents for self-sustaining redistribution over 20 kilometers of coast, potentially halving traditional nourishment frequencies and costs while fostering dune accretion and biodiversity.^[166]^[167] Advanced monitoring technologies underpin the efficacy of these techniques by enabling data-driven adjustments and predictive modeling. LiDAR-equipped drones and UAVs facilitate high-resolution topographic surveys of coastal changes, capturing centimeter-level accuracy over kilometers in hours, which surpasses traditional ground-based methods in speed and coverage for erosion hotspot detection.^[168]^[169] Integration of real-time LiDAR data into management reduces maintenance expenditures by optimizing intervention timing and volumes, with studies reporting efficiency gains that lower overall project costs through minimized unnecessary dredging or repairs.^[170] These tools also quantify hard structure performance, such as groyne-induced accretion volumes, allowing cost-benefit analyses that favor hybrids in dynamic environments where pure hard defenses prove less durable against variable wave climates.^[171]

Adaptive Strategies for Resilience

Adaptive strategies for coastal resilience emphasize data-driven risk assessments to guide land-use planning and infrastructure decisions, focusing on long-term viability rather than reactive measures. In the United States, following Hurricane Katrina in 2005, coastal zoning ordinances were strengthened to incorporate setbacks and elevation requirements, limiting development in high-risk flood zones and mandating structures be raised above base flood elevations (BFE). For instance, elevating buildings to or above BFE in New Orleans has been shown to mitigate surge and flooding damages by reducing inundation exposure, with empirical models indicating potential reductions in flood losses exceeding 50% for heights of 2-3 meters in vulnerable low-lying areas.^[172]^[173] These approaches prioritize probabilistic hazard modeling over worst-case projections, enabling cost-effective avoidance of repeated flood-prone investments. Nature-based solutions, such as mangrove restoration, leverage ecological processes for sediment accretion and wave energy dissipation, often proving more sustainable than rigid engineering in tropical settings. Field studies in mangrove systems report average vertical accretion rates of 5-6 mm per year, sufficient to keep pace with observed local sea-level rise in many sites, while root systems and canopies trap sediments and attenuate waves more dynamically than concrete seawalls, which can exacerbate adjacent erosion.^[174] In comparative trials, restored mangroves have demonstrated superior long-term resilience by facilitating natural shoreline progradation, contrasting with hard structures that fail under extreme events without ongoing maintenance.^[175]^[176] Economic mechanisms further support adaptation by aligning incentives with risk realities, such as through insurance premiums reflecting empirical loss probabilities and funds for strategic relocation. The Netherlands' Room for the River program, initiated in 2007 after major floods in 1993 and 1995, exemplifies this by reallocating floodplain areas for water storage via dike relocations and excavations, investing over €2.3 billion across 34 projects to enhance discharge capacity without solely relying on heightening defenses.^[177] Economic analyses confirmed the program's viability, yielding benefits through reduced flood probabilities and preserved development potential in safer zones.^[178] These strategies integrate market signals, like risk-based insurance, to discourage maladaptive buildup in hazard-prone coastal strips.

Dynamics, Changes, and Threats

Natural Fluctuations and Cycles

Coastal systems exhibit inherent variability driven by astronomical forcings such as tidal cycles and orbital parameters, as well as meteorological phenomena like storm sequences and decadal climate oscillations, all predating significant human modification. These natural fluctuations result in periodic erosion, accretion, and sediment redistribution, establishing a dynamic baseline for shoreline positions independent of anthropogenic influences. Decadal-scale oscillations, particularly those associated with the El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO), induce episodic erosion spikes through altered storm tracks and elevated sea levels. During the 1997–1998 El Niño event, southern California beaches experienced substantial shoreline retreat, with average erosion of up to 55 meters in northern sections like Monterey Bay, accompanied by widespread loss of sandy beach areas due to intensified wave action and rainfall.^[179]^[180] Sea surface temperatures in the eastern Pacific reached record anomalies, correlating with 15–20 cm sea-level elevations along the California coast for over six months, enhancing wave energy and sediment transport offshore.^[181] Tidal cycles further modulate sediment flux through asymmetric flood-ebb dynamics, where spring-neap variations drive substantial portions of biogeochemical and particle transport variability, often resulting in net landward or seaward shifts depending on local bathymetry.^[182]^[183] Storm sequences, including hurricanes and extratropical cyclones, temporarily reshape coastlines over scales of 1–10 kilometers by mobilizing large sediment volumes during peak events. For instance, post-Hurricane Irma surveys in 2017 documented extensive barrier island reconfiguration in Florida, with recovery of dune profiles and washover features occurring within 1–1.5 years, as evidenced by repeat topographic lidar and aerial imagery.^[184] Such events fill erosional scars like washout channels in days to weeks via subsequent fair-weather redistribution, though full morphologic restoration can extend to several years based on sediment supply and wave climate.^[185] These cycles highlight the resilience of coastal landforms to recurrent high-energy forcings. On millennial timescales, Milankovitch cycles—variations in Earth's orbital eccentricity, obliquity, and precession—drive Quaternary eustatic sea-level fluctuations through ice-volume changes, causing coastline migrations of tens to hundreds of kilometers. Glacial-interglacial transitions, such as the Last Glacial Maximum around 20,000 years ago when sea levels were approximately 120 meters lower, advanced continental shelves seaward, with subsequent deglaciation prompting rapid transgressions that reshaped low-gradient coasts over 100,000-year periods.^[186] These long-term oscillations provide the stratigraphic template for sequence stratigraphy, linking insolation forcing to global sea-level envelopes without reliance on tectonic or anthropogenic drivers.^[187]

Anthropogenic Modifications

Human interventions, particularly the construction of dams and reservoirs, have substantially reduced sediment delivery to coastal zones worldwide. Large dams trap an estimated 1-2 billion metric tons of sediment annually, representing a significant fraction—often exceeding 50% in heavily regulated basins—of the natural fluvial supply that sustains deltas and beaches.^[188] This sediment starvation manifests as accelerated coastal erosion; for instance, in the Mekong Delta, upstream hydropower dams constructed since the 1990s have contributed to a shift from net land gain to shrinkage, with erosion rates reaching 20-100 meters per year along vulnerable shorelines and cumulative coastline retreat on the order of several kilometers in affected sectors by the 2010s.^[189] Pre-dam sediment fluxes supported delta progradation at rates of several square kilometers per year, but post-intervention data from satellite monitoring show net losses exceeding 0.05 km² annually in recent decades.^[190] Urban development along coastlines amplifies erosional forces through the proliferation of impervious surfaces such as concrete and asphalt. These surfaces inhibit infiltration, elevating surface runoff volumes and peak flows by factors of 2 to 5 times compared to pre-development vegetated landscapes, as quantified in hydrological models from the U.S. Geological Survey and EPA assessments.^[191] ^[192] The resultant concentrated discharges scour coastal soils and dunes, with post-urbanization erosion rates in affected areas like U.S. East Coast estuaries increasing by up to 10 times baseline levels, based on comparative gauging station data before and after suburban expansion in the late 20th century.^[193] Nutrient pollution from anthropogenic sources, including fertilizers applied since the mid-20th century, has induced eutrophication in semi-enclosed coastal seas, fostering hypoxic zones that disrupt benthic habitats and fisheries. In the Black Sea, intensified agricultural runoff from the 1960s onward—peaking in the 1980s—triggered widespread anoxia, collapsing shelf fisheries from annual catches of 850,000 tons in the mid-1980s to 250,000 tons by 1991, as oxygen depletion killed demersal stocks and favored jellyfish blooms.^[194] Economic disruptions in the early 1990s reduced nutrient inputs by over 50%, enabling partial ecosystem recovery with improved oxygenation and fish landings rebounding to pre-eutrophication levels by the 2000s, underscoring the direct causal link between human nutrient loading and coastal ecological collapse.^[195]^[196]

Climate Variability Impacts

Global mean sea level has risen at an average rate of 3.3 mm per year from 1993 to 2023, as measured by satellite altimetry, with the rate accelerating to about 4.2 mm per year in the 2014-2024 period due to thermal expansion and ice melt contributions from atmospheric warming.^[197]^[198] This eustatic rise manifests variably along coasts, where local land subsidence—often unrelated to climate—can comprise 30-70% of relative sea level changes in deltaic systems, amplifying inundation risks beyond the global signal.^[199]^[200] For example, the U.S. Gulf Coast has experienced relative rises of 5-10 mm per year in recent decades, with subsidence rates of 3-6 mm per year in subsiding zones like Louisiana contributing substantially to observed flooding and wetland loss.^[201]^[202] Warmer sea surface temperatures, a direct outcome of ocean heat uptake from greenhouse gas forcings, have increased evaporation rates, fueling higher atmospheric moisture content and intensifying rainfall within tropical cyclones by 10-15% per degree of warming, per IPCC AR6 assessments.^[203]^[204] This has led to more extreme precipitation events during coastal storms, exacerbating erosion and surge impacts, though overall tropical cyclone frequency shows no global trend increase.^[203] In the U.S., historical records from 1851 to the 2020s indicate no rise in hurricane landfall frequency, averaging 1.7-2 per year, with variability tied to multidecadal cycles like the Atlantic Multidecadal Oscillation rather than monotonic intensification.^[205]^[206] Regional empirical data reveal that climate-driven sea level variability interacts with coastal morphology; in stable, sediment-rich areas, heightened evaporation and storm-driven transport have occasionally promoted foredune accretion, offsetting minor rises through aeolian sand deposition, as observed in macrotidal embayments where dunes have maintained or grown despite 2-3 mm/year relative changes.^[207] However, in subsiding or low-sediment coasts, these feedbacks are insufficient, leading to net retreat and heightened vulnerability to episodic inundation during El Niño-enhanced high sea levels.^[208] Such impacts underscore the primacy of local geomorphology in modulating global climate signals, with historical tide gauge records showing relative stability in non-subsiding U.S. Atlantic sectors over the satellite era.^[209]

Controversies and Empirical Debates

Disputes on Erosion Drivers

Empirical analyses of coastal erosion often prioritize sea-level rise (SLR) as the dominant driver, yet studies reveal that anthropogenic interception of fluvial sediments, particularly via dams, accounts for a larger share of observed shoreline retreat in sediment-starved systems. For instance, global river damming has reduced sand delivery to coasts by trapping up to 50% of pre-industrial sediment loads in major basins, exacerbating erosion rates that exceed those attributable to recent SLR increments of approximately 3-4 mm/year. In California, dams have diminished annual sand flux to beaches by 23%, affecting over 20% of the coastline with downstream erosion unrelated to tidal changes. Similarly, post-dam construction in deltas like the Nile and Mekong has induced retreat rates of 50-100 meters per decade, far outpacing localized SLR contributions estimated at less than 10% of total sediment deficit impacts in 2020s modeling.^[210]^[211]^[212] Local geological factors, including subsidence, further complicate attribution, dominating relative sea-level changes in up to 41% of observed trends across subsiding coastal zones, such as the U.S. Gulf and Atlantic margins where anthropogenic groundwater extraction amplifies vertical land motion beyond eustatic SLR. Tide gauge records indicate that subsidence rates exceeding 3 mm/year affect broad swaths of vulnerable low-lying coasts, rendering SLR a secondary modulator in these contexts; for example, in tectonically active or deltaic regions comprising over half of global at-risk shorelines, subsidence drives 60-80% of effective inundation risk per site-specific assessments. This contrasts with narratives emphasizing uniform SLR primacy, as subsidence's role is often underweighted in global models due to sparse vertical datum integration.^[213]^[214]^[213] Disputes intensify over predictive modeling, where alarmist projections frequently overestimate erosion by incorporating extrapolated SLR accelerations not corroborated by long-term tide gauges, particularly in isostatically uplifting regions like Scandinavia. Norwegian and Baltic tide gauge data from 1960-2020 show relative sea-level stability or slight declines (0-1 mm/year rise) due to glacial rebound countering eustatic trends, enabling coastal progradation in areas with adequate sediment flux despite model forecasts of retreat. These discrepancies highlight data gaps in integrating local geodynamics, with empirical observations revealing overprediction factors of 2-5 times in uplifting terrains when tide gauges are benchmarked against satellite altimetry-derived models.^[215]^[216]^[215] Engineering perspectives underscore successful countermeasures against multi-decadal SLR without retreat, as evidenced by the Netherlands, where approximately 25-30 cm of rise since 1900 has been offset by dike reinforcements and land reclamation, maintaining net land gain through systematic sediment management and no widespread abandonment. Proponents argue this validates causal emphasis on controllable factors like sediment bypassing over inexorable SLR, citing historical accretion phases pre-20th-century development in similar temperate coasts. Conversely, retreat advocates, often drawing from consensus-driven IPCC scenarios, downplay such cases by attributing stability to temporary engineering, while overlooking pre-industrial accretion data from sediment cores showing progradational balances disrupted primarily by human interception rather than baseline SLR.^[217]^[218]^[219]

Sea Level Rise Projections and Evidence

Global mean sea level rose by 15–25 cm between 1901 and 2018, equivalent to an average rate of approximately 1.4–2.1 mm per year during the early to mid-20th century, with acceleration evident in later decades to around 3 mm per year since the 1990s based on tide gauge reconstructions.^[209]^[220] This historical rise shows regional variability, influenced by factors such as vertical land motion and ocean dynamics; for instance, some Pacific tide gauge records indicate rates below the global average or even stability in specific locales when adjusted for local subsidence, though broader regional trends in the Southwest Pacific exceed the global mean at 4–5 mm per year since 1993.^[221]^[222] Projections for future sea level rise under IPCC Representative Concentration Pathway (RCP) scenarios estimate global mean increases of 0.28–0.55 m by 2100 for low-emissions paths (RCP2.6) and 0.63–1.01 m for high-emissions paths (RCP8.5), with median values around 0.4–0.8 m depending on ice sheet response assumptions.^[223] These forecasts incorporate semi-empirical models and process-based simulations, but uncertainties remain high due to nonlinear ice sheet dynamics; for example, Greenland ice sheet mass loss models from the 2010s projected higher contributions than subsequently observed in gravity satellite data, with actual losses averaging 250–280 Gt per year during 2010–2018 falling within projected ranges but toward the lower end after accounting for variability in surface melt.^[224] Empirical indicators, such as salt marsh accretion rates, suggest ecosystems can adapt to rises up to 5–10 mm per year through sediment trapping and belowground production, challenging assumptions of widespread drowning under moderate scenarios, though accelerated inundation beyond 10 mm per year may exceed limits in low-sediment environments.^[225]^[226] Debates persist over measurement methodologies and attribution, with tide gauge networks recording historical rates of 1.5–2 mm per year globally since 1900, contrasted against satellite altimetry's 3.3–3.9 mm per year since 1993, a discrepancy partly attributed to improved global coverage and glacial isostatic adjustment corrections but potentially amplified by altimetry biases exceeding 10–15% in volume change estimates from incomplete sampling of near-coast and polar regions.^[227]^[221] Natural variability complicates anthropogenic attribution, as proxy records indicate Holocene rates reached 10–20 mm per year during deglacial phases, while Medieval Warm Period reconstructions show regional sea level stability or slight rises of 0.2–0.5 m over centuries in some North Atlantic sites, rates comparable to or exceeding early 20th-century observations without modern CO2 forcing.^[228] These empirical discrepancies underscore the need for integrated gauge-satellite validation and highlight how model sensitivities to ice-ocean interactions have led to past overestimates in high-end scenarios, emphasizing epistemic caution in policy-relevant forecasts.^[229]

Policy Efficacy and Overregulation Critiques

The Netherlands has demonstrated the efficacy of robust coastal defense policies through its dike and levee system, which safeguards approximately 26% of its land situated below sea level, preventing widespread flooding despite vulnerability to storm surges.^[230] This approach, refined after the 1953 North Sea flood that prompted the Delta Works program, has protected densely populated areas where over 60% of the population resides in flood-prone zones, with maintenance costs offset by avoided damages estimated in the trillions of euros.^[230] Empirical outcomes underscore causal factors like sediment management and engineering resilience over retreat, yielding net economic benefits through sustained land use and agricultural productivity.^[157] In contrast, the United States National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP), established in 1968, has been critiqued for subsidizing development in high-risk coastal zones, creating moral hazard and escalating taxpayer burdens. Post-Hurricane Katrina in 2005, the NFIP incurred over $16 billion in claims, contributing to program deficits averaging $1.4 billion annually as premiums fail to cover losses, with total interest payments exceeding $5.7 billion by 2025.^[231]^[232]^[233] This structure incentivizes building in vulnerable areas via below-actuarial-rate insurance, amplifying exposure rather than promoting risk reduction, as evidenced by repeated claims on the same properties totaling billions since inception.^[233] Coastal policies often overemphasize sea-level rise (SLR) projections while underaddressing subsidence, a dominant local driver of relative sea-level change in regions like Louisiana, where subsidence rates exceed global SLR by factors of five due to groundwater extraction, oil production, and sediment starvation.^[234]^[235] In Louisiana's $50 billion Coastal Master Plan, sediment diversions—intended to mimic natural delta-building—have faced scrutiny for underperformance, with projects like the Mid-Barataria diversion halted in 2025 amid concerns over high costs ($3 billion initial, plus ongoing ecosystem disruptions like hypoxia exacerbating fisheries losses) and lower land-building efficiency compared to dredging alternatives.^[236] Cost-benefit analyses indicate dredging via pipelines can achieve faster wetland restoration at reduced per-acre expenses in select cases, prioritizing direct sediment delivery over ecologically uncertain diversions.^[237]^[238] Managed retreat policies, such as voluntary buyouts, encounter empirical barriers including low uptake (e.g., New Jersey's program covering under 1% of at-risk properties) and conflicts with rising property values that signal market resilience rather than inevitable abandonment.^[239] Critics argue regulatory mandates for retreat overlook data-driven defenses, imposing overregulation that stifles local adaptation; market-based insurance, adjusting premiums to reflect risks without subsidies, better incentivizes prudent siting than government interventions.^[240] Recent legislation like the Resilient Coasts and Estuaries Act of 2025 (H.R. 2786) seeks to fund restoration for SLR and flooding resilience but risks bureaucratic expansion without rigorous cost-efficacy mandates, potentially mirroring NFIP's fiscal shortfalls.^[241] Pragmatic policies favoring empirical outcomes—such as subsidence mitigation via extraction controls—over ideologically driven retreat would enhance causal effectiveness in coastal governance.^[234]

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The wave energy resources were assessed along the European Atlantic coast from ten-year hindcast, using the state-of-the-art spectral wave models WaveWatch3 and ...
[30]
Wave types - constructive and destructive - Coastal processes - AQA
There are two types of waves: destructive, with weak swash and strong backwash, and constructive, with strong swash and weak backwash.
[31]
A classification system for global wave energy resources based on ...
Mar 15, 2020 · Two classes were low energy, found in enclosed seas and sheltered regions. Two classes were moderate wave energy classes; one swell dominated ...
[32]
Executive Summary
Since the Last Glacial Maximum about 20,000 years ago, sea level has risen by over 120 m at locations far from present and former ice sheets, as a result of ...
[33]
How does present glacier extent and sea level compare ... - USGS.gov
Beginning about 15,000 years ago, continental glaciers retreated and sea level began to rise. Sea level reached its current height about 8,000 years ago and has ...
[34]
12.6: Emergent and Submergent Coasts - Geosciences LibreTexts
Feb 14, 2021 · Estuaries are associated with submergent coastlines formed when sea level rises and floods existing river valleys. Active margins can have both ...
[35]
Continuous GPS measurements of postglacial adjustment in ...
We present an analysis of data collected between August 1993 and May 2000. We compare the GPS determinations of three-dimensional crustal motion to predictions ...
[36]
[PDF] The glacial isostatic adjustment signal at present day in northern ...
Jun 15, 2018 · K. M. Simon et al.: The glacial isostatic adjustment signal at present day. Figure 3. GPS-measured rates of vertical land motion before and ...
[37]
Glacial isostatic adjustment of Scandinavia and northwestern ...
3: The Scandinavian RSL data cover a broad range from present-day sea level to more than 250 m height, while reaching back to around 15 000 yr, with isolated ...Summary · Introduction · Observational Data · Results
[38]
[PDF] Unprecedented Historical Erosion of US Gulf Coast
This study provides documentation of a regime shift in coastal barrier evolution from stability or growth over the previous few thousand years to nearly ...
[39]
Coastal and Marine Geohazards of the U.S. West Coast and Alaska
The tectonically active west coast of the Americas is prone to such hazards, as it lies along the boundaries of major tectonic plates that make up the Earth's ...Missing: cliffed | Show results with:cliffed
[40]
[PDF] (PALEO)-EARTHQUAKE AND -TSUNAMI SCIENCE
Faults with high slip rates of several millimeters, or even centimeters, per ... convergent boundary where the Nazca plate subducts below the South ...
[41]
2.4: Divergent Boundaries - Geosciences LibreTexts
Aug 25, 2025 · The East African Rift Zone, where the horn of Africa is pulling away from the mainland, is an excellent example of an active narrow rift. Lake ...
[42]
GIA & Trends | Data Portal – GRACE Tellus - NASA
... isostatic rebound of the crust and which may exceed 10 mm/yr (in the southeast Hudson Bay region of Canada, this rate is near 11 mm/yr). In regions that ...Missing: cm/ 2020s
[43]
Ontario: The Geology of Isostatic Rebound - Rising Land
That land along the southern coast of Hudson Bay coast is rising at about 1 to 1.3 meters (3.4 to 4.3 feet) per hundred years. Farther south along James Bay, ...Missing: cm/ 2020s
[44]
[PDF] Chapter 3 Growth and Degradation of Hawaiian Volcanoes
Hawaiian volcanoes form from a hot spot, grow rapidly initially, then subside and erode, with rapid erosion carving canyons and landslides causing megatsunamis.
[45]
Radiocarbon dates from the Hawaiian Islands: A compilation
This report compiles radiocarbon dates for geologic and archaeological studies, including volcanology, sea-level changes, and plant material from Mauna Loa and ...
[46]
Sediment Transport in Coastal Environments | U.S. Geological Survey
These engineered structures form artificial boundaries to littoral cells by reducing wave-driven longshore sediment transport across inlet entrances.Missing: m³/ | Show results with:m³/
[47]
Sediment transport and budget influenced by harbor jetties in storm ...
Our results indicate that during storm events, the presence of a pair of jetties consistently leads to a substantial decrease in longshore sediment transport.
[48]
[PDF] Longshore Sediment Transport - Barnstable County
Shore-perpendicular structures (e.g., groins and jetties) tend to get a buildup of sediment on the updrift side of the structure and erosion downdrift (Figure 3) ...
[49]
[PDF] GlobR2C2 (Global Recession Rates of Coastal Cliffs) - ESurf
Aug 9, 2018 · Median erosion rates are 2.9 cm yr−1 for hard rocks, 10 cmyr−1 for medium rocks and 23 cmyr−1 for weak rocks.
[50]
[PDF] HOLDERNESS COAST (UNITED KINGDOM)
On average, the coastline of Holderness erodes at about 2 m per year. However rates fluctuate enormously, both over time and from place to place, so accurate ...
[51]
Cycles of coastal erosion and accretion caused by alternation of ...
The paper presents an approach to assessing potential risks for coastal areas, where the foredune acts as the first and main line of defense against storm ...Missing: dendrochronology | Show results with:dendrochronology<|separator|>
[52]
Sedimentological archives of coastal storms in South-West Wales, UK
Sep 5, 2022 · This study analyses sedimentological evidence from south-west Wales to assess the impacts of high magnitude coastal storms in vulnerable coastal saltmarshes.Missing: driven fair- dendrochronology
[53]
Geomorphic and Sedimentary Effects of Modern Climate Change ...
Oct 23, 2020 · We review existing literature to investigate the nature and extent of sedimentary and geomorphic responses to modern climate change, focusing on the western ...Missing: fair- dendrochronology
[54]
Storm response and beach rotation on a gravel beach, Slapton ...
Southerly storms cause accretion of the supratidal zone and erosion of the intertidal zone, and a significant loss in overall beach volume.Missing: fair- weather dendrochronology
[55]
2B.2A Concordant and Discordant
Concordant coasts usually form where rock strata or folds run parallel to the coast. · Some concordant coasts have long, narrow islands running parallel to the ...
[56]
Geology and Coastlines A Level Geography - Revision Notes
Oct 7, 2024 · Discordant coastlines · A discordant coastline is one where the rock structures meet the coast at an angle - run perpendicular to oncoming waves.
[57]
Bays and Headlands - Internet Geography
A concordant coastline is one where the same rock type runs along the entire length of the coast. Concordant coastlines tend to have fewer bays and headlands.Missing: morphological | Show results with:morphological
[58]
[PDF] Chapter 3 Coastal Classification and Morphology - PDH Online
Jan 31, 1995 · It divides the world's coasts into primary coasts - formed mostly by non-marine agents - and sec- ondary coasts - shaped primarily by marine ...
[59]
Classification | SpringerLink
Jul 8, 2014 · The primary coasts, which Shepard recognizes as youthful, include four major subdivisions: those shaped by land erosion, those shaped by ...
[60]
Coastal Classification: Systematic Approaches to Consider in the ...
The basis (highest-level distinction) in this classification is the differentiation between coasts shaped mainly by terrestrial agencies (Primary Coasts) and ...
[61]
Natural and Artificial Shores of the French Riviera
Jan 20, 1994 · The 132 km-Iong French Riviera exhibits 21.5% of man-made shorelines comprising yachting harbours or marinas, reclamation fill, and artificial beaches.Missing: definition | Show results with:definition
[62]
[PDF] Chapter 7 The rock coast of the Mediterranean and Black seas
Rock coasts are conspicuous landforms along the Mediterranean and Black Sea, formed by sea level changes, and are related to the geological history of the ...<|control11|><|separator|>
[63]
[PDF] Formation, Evolution, and Stability of Coastal Cliffs–Status and Trends
Coastal cliffs are steep escarpments at the coastline, forming during rising sea levels as the shoreline advances and erodes landmass.<|separator|>
[64]
[PDF] Coastal and Submarine Geomorphology - Find People
On actively uplifting coasts, wave-cut platforms that become elevated above the surf zone provide long-term records of coastal uplift in the form of marine ...<|separator|>
[65]
[PDF] Geomorphological indicators of past sea levels
Tracking the elevation variation of uplifted inner edges of marine terraces is an effective means to detect faults, regional tectonic tilts, and long-wavelength.
[66]
[PDF] Quaternary sea-level history of the United States
About 7000–8000 cal yr B.P., flooding of the Florida continental shelf would have brought about soil erosion and increased turbidity that may have terminated ...
[67]
CH 10 Coasts Flashcards | Quizlet
What are the characteristics of the US Atlantic coasts? -Mainly submergent -Barrier islands (fewer inlets)
[68]
[PDF] USGS Open-File Report 2010-1118
Along the Mid-Atlantic coast, areas experienced subsidence related to isostatic rebound as the ice sheet was removed (Peltier, 1997), resulting in different ...Missing: submergent | Show results with:submergent
[69]
Optically stimulated luminescence dating of Holocene relict ...
Aug 6, 2025 · This follows on more than a decade of prior application of OSL dating to progradational coastal systems throughout the world (Murray-Wallace et ...Missing: compound | Show results with:compound
[70]
Coastal classification: Systematic approaches to consider in the ...
Aug 6, 2025 · The proposed approach employs differentiating criteria for hard rock (automorphic) and soft rock (allomorphic) coasts which are divided by ...
[71]
Waves - Coastal Wiki
Feb 14, 2024 · Sea waves can be classified in different ways, depending on the parameters considered. Considering the parameter r=h/L, the ratio of water depth ...
[72]
17.1 Waves – Physical Geology - BC Open Textbooks
Waves form on the ocean and on lakes because energy from the wind is transferred to the water. The stronger the wind, the longer it blows.
[73]
Constructive Waves vs Destructive Waves:What You Should Know
Apr 20, 2025 · Constructive waves are low-energy and build up beaches, while destructive waves are high-energy, causing coastal erosion by removing sediment from the shore.Missing: regimes | Show results with:regimes
[74]
Breaker index - Coastal Wiki
Jan 11, 2025 · The breaker index concept has been introduced to estimate the location on the shoreface where wave breaking occurs based on empirical formulas.
[75]
Simple Breaker Index Formula Using Linear Model - MDPI
Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions.
[76]
Tidal Modulation of Surface Gravity Waves in the Gulf of Maine in
Oct 1, 2018 · Abstract This study examines the tidal modulation of surface gravity waves in the Gulf of Maine (GoM) by using in situ observations and ...
[77]
Tidal Energy Project in the Bay of Fundy - Natural Resources Canada
Dec 23, 2024 · The project, led by FORCE, aims to harness the Bay of Fundy's high tides for energy, with a demonstration facility and research program. It has ...
[78]
Distribution of subtidal sedimentary bedforms in a macrotidal setting
The Bay of Fundy, Canada, a large macrotidal embayment with the World's highest recorded tides, was mapped using multibeam sonar systems.Missing: modulation | Show results with:modulation
[79]
13.3 Landforms of Coastal Erosion – Introduction to Oceanography
Arches and sea caves form as a result of the erosion of relatively non-resistant rock. Wave action and strong longshore currents can carve a cave into a ...
[80]
Study reveals huge acceleration in erosion of England's white cliffs
Nov 7, 2016 · But the erosion rate over the past 150 years has been much higher at 22-32cm a year.
[81]
England's white cliffs found to be eroding ten times faster over the ...
Nov 8, 2016 · Their study suggested that prior to a century and a half ago, the pace of erosion was approximately two to six centimeters a year, going back ...
[82]
Reconciling short- and long-term measurements of coastal cliff ...
Results show that the average cliff recession rate over the past decade has been 41 ± 2 mm/year, and monthly scans show a range in erosion rates of 30 to 288 mm ...
[83]
21.2: Coastal Landforms and Processes - Geosciences LibreTexts
Feb 19, 2022 · Wave erosion undercuts steep shorelines creating coastal cliffs. A sea cliff is a vertical precipice created by waves crashing directly on a ...
[84]
Marine Landforms and Cycle of Erosion | Coastlines - PMF IAS
Ria. When a region is dissected by streams into a system of valleys and divides, submergence produces a highly irregular shoreline called ria coastline. The ...
[85]
[PDF] Quaternary Marine Terraces Of Waratah Bay, Victoria
Wave-cut platforms developed across Paleozoic marine sedimentary bedrock are covered by Quaternary deposits of silicic beach and dune sands, angular quartz ...
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https://www.tutor2u.net/geography/reference/gcse-geography-landforms-of-erosion-bays-and-headlands-coastal-landscapes-4
[87]
Processes controlling the development of a river mouth spit
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[88]
Effects of Grain Size and Slope (U.S. National Park Service)
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[90]
Wave‐Influenced Deltas: Growth Through Cyclical Accretion of ...
Aug 23, 2025 · Barrier-spits are the primary constructional elements of wave-influenced deltas and leave distinct signatures (lagoons) on the delta plain ...
[91]
The Nile delta in the anthropocene: drivers of coastal change and ...
This resulted in seaward progradation of the delta over the past 5,000 years by as much as 50 km north of the present coastline (Stanley Reference Stanley1988, ...
[92]
Nile Delta exhibited a spatial reversal in the rates of shoreline retreat ...
The coastline of the Nile Delta experienced accelerated erosion since the construction of the Aswan High Dam in 1964 and, consequently, the entrapment of a ...
[93]
Wind and Sand Transport Across a Vegetated Foredune Slope
Nov 26, 2020 · Our study thus highlights the importance of wind direction and vegetation cover to foredune growth and recovery.
[94]
Wind tunnel and field calibration of five aeolian sand traps
The absolute efficiencies of the BSNE, MWAC and POLCA are more or less comparable and vary between 70% and 120%, depending on sediment size and wind speed. For ...
[95]
A U-Th Dating Approach to Understanding Past Coral Reef ...
Feb 5, 2020 · U-Th dates and CT imagery from the distal reef flat cores reveal a mixed framework/sediment vertical accretion rate of ~12.4 ± 2.6 mm year−1 ...
[96]
[PDF] Rapid accretion of inshore reef slopes from the central Great Barrier ...
Mid-Holocene optimum accretion rate of 4.6 mm/yr based on published average accretion rates from inshore fringing reefs from the Great Barrier Reef (Smithers ...
[97]
Assessing the role of mangroves in shoreline stabilisation through a ...
Aug 25, 2025 · The thick vegetation not only prevents erosion by stabilising the soil but also promotes sediment deposition. The roots trap and hold sediment ...
[98]
Mangroves' role in supporting ecosystem-based techniques to ...
In this context, key attributes of mangrove forests were found to be in reducing coastal flood risk, sheltering coastal regions during storms and stabilizing ...
[99]
Vulnerability of Louisiana's coastal wetlands to present-day rates of ...
Mar 14, 2017 · VA rates also vary widely (s.d.=7.8 mm per year; Table 1). Mean (12.8 mm per year) and median (11.3 mm per year) VA rates in the Mississippi ...
[100]
Modeling long‐term salt marsh response to sea level rise in ... - ASLO
Apr 14, 2020 · The mean initial vertical accretion rate from 300 model runs was 3.45 ± 0.83 mm yr−1, with higher rates reaching 9.28 ± 1.11 mm yr−1 at lower ...
[101]
Formation - Chesil Beach
Nov 1, 2024 · Chesil Beach initially formed from predominantly sandy deposits in Lyme Bay as water levels rose rapidly at the end of the last ice age 20,000- ...Missing: tombolo till UK
[102]
Tombolo - Coastal Wiki
Sep 7, 2020 · Definition of Tombolo: (1) Coastal formation of beach material developed by refraction, diffraction and longshore drift to form a 'neck' ...
[103]
[PDF] GCR site account 1800: CHESIL BEACH - JNCC
The geological evidence indicates that there have been various potential sources of the pebbles and cobbles, including fluvial as well as marine deposits, and ...Missing: till | Show results with:till
[104]
Benthos - Coastal Wiki
Nov 26, 2024 · Benthic infauna. Benthic infauna is the assemblage of organisms that live within or partly within the sediments of the seafloor. These ...
[105]
"Storage Efficiency of Estuaries" by Maynard M. Nichols
Northern estuaries trap and store the bulk or their river input In addition to large amounts or sediment supplied from other sources. Southern estuaries ...Missing: global percentage
[106]
[PDF] CHAPTER 17 Estuarine Fisheries and Aquaculture - Amazon S3
Aug 8, 2022 · Estuaries are the source of an estimated 16 percent of non- oceanic, global fisheries yield (Houde and Rutherford 1993), and aqua- culture is ...
[107]
Seasonal and Spatial Variability of Phytoplankton Primary ...
Dec 14, 2022 · Coastal lagoons are among the most productive ecosystems in the world, and they provide a wide range of ecosystem services and resources.
[108]
Influence of sediment characteristics on the composition of soft ...
Jun 16, 2015 · Benthic infauna are responsible for a significant amount of sediment bioturbation, secondary productivity, and nutrient cycling (Graf & ...Missing: zones | Show results with:zones
[109]
Revisiting historical trends in the Eastern Boundary Upwelling ...
The Eastern Boundary Upwelling Systems (EBUS) span less than 1% of the ocean surface, yet they account for up to 20% of global fisheries catches (FAO, 2022).
[110]
The Humboldt Current, a fish-rich system under threat - Le Monde
Aug 22, 2023 · But the productivity of the Humboldt system is unrivaled: It provides 10% of the world's total catch, in just 0.1% of its surface area. The ...<|separator|>
[111]
[PDF] Ocean Fronts - ARC Centre of Excellence for Climate Extremes
Ocean fronts act as hotspots for marine biodiversity, attracting fishes and various other marine animals, making them significant areas for fisheries.<|separator|>
[112]
Marine Bio Ch. 11 Between the Tides Flashcards | Quizlet
Acorn barnacles usually occupy the top of the middle intertidal zone. Their upper limit is determined by how high they can live without drying out. Their lower ...
[113]
[PDF] INTERTIDAL ZONATION Introduction to Oceanography Spring 2017
Avoiding Desiccation. 1. Periwinkle snail (Littorina) commonly lives in the Upper Intertidal Zone. The species. Littorina scutulata lives at the top of the ...Missing: osmoregulation | Show results with:osmoregulation
[114]
[PDF] Smooth cordgrass (Spartina alterniflora Loisel.) Plant Guide
Smooth cordgrass is described as a facultative halophyte; that is, it will tolerate salt, but salt is not a requirement for its growth.
[115]
Ecological Setting - Salt Marsh Guide
These adaptations include: (1) glands along the grass blades that excrete salt, making it possible for Spartina to consistently be exposed to saltwater; and (2) ...
[116]
Vegetation stabilisation and slope failure of eroding sand dunes
This study compared stability of vegetated (previously planted with marram grass Ammophila arenaria) and non-vegetated dune slopes at Portrush, County Antrim ( ...Missing: stabilization | Show results with:stabilization
[117]
Flyway‐scale GPS tracking reveals migratory routes and key ...
Nov 9, 2022 · Flyway-scale GPS tracking reveals migratory routes and key stopover and non-breeding locations of lesser yellowlegs.Missing: percentage | Show results with:percentage
[118]
Shorebird Migration Tracking | U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service
Mar 30, 2023 · Recent updates in tracking technology have made it possible to study small-bodied wildlife, like shorebirds, as they move throughout the year.
[119]
Global distribution and richness of terrestrial mammals in tidal ...
Feb 14, 2023 · To explain this bimodal distribution, it has been proposed that species evolved through adaptation to temperature at the edge of the tropics ...
[120]
Organic carbon densities and accumulation rates in surface ... - BG
Mar 24, 2021 · Burdige (2007) estimated that 80 % (248 Tg C yr−1) of all OC buried in marine sediments is occurring in continental margin sediments.
[121]
Importance of coastal nutrient supply for global ocean biogeochemistry
Jun 17, 2008 · The coastal ocean provides nutrients to the open ocean in accounts that are poorly quantified. We use an ocean biogeochemistry model to ...
[122]
Do rivers supply nutrients to the open ocean?
May 24, 2017 · The results indicate that, on a global scale, 75% (80%) of the nitrogen (phosphorus) supplied by rivers reaches the open ocean, whereas 25% (20 ...
[123]
The Global Flood Protection Benefits of Mangroves | Scientific Reports
Mar 10, 2020 · Many (>45) 20-km coastal stretches particularly those near cities receive more than $US 250 million annually in flood protection benefits from ...
[124]
What is Blue Carbon?
These rates are about two to four times greater than global rates observed in mature tropical forests *. Mangroves provide at least US $1.6 billion each year in ...
[125]
Pumped-up performance: Oysters' filtering feat overstated | Fisheries
May 20, 2020 · In reality, Gray said, under average conditions in the wild, an oyster will more likely siphon 3.0–12.5 gallons of water per day.Missing: individual | Show results with:individual
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Coastal habitats extend to the margins of the continental shelves, occupying about 7 percent of the ocean surface area. Marine coastal ecosystems include ...Overview · Coastal habitats · Coastal ecology · Coastal biogeochemistry
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Full article: Carbon sequestration in mangrove forests
Apr 10, 2014 · Compared with other coastal ecosystems, mangroves contribute an average of 14% to carbon sequestration in the world's oceans, although ...
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Presently about 40% of the world's population lives within. 100 kilometers of the coast. As population density and economic activity in the coastal zone ...Missing: 2020s | Show results with:2020s
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Accelerating growth of human coastal populations at the global and ...
Sep 28, 2024 · We updated these estimates for 2018: the coastal regions had grown to 2.86 billion (38.1% of global population) at 100 km and 3.34 billion (44.6 ...Missing: 2020s | Show results with:2020s
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Coastal functions - World Ocean Review
From the earliest times, coastal waters supplied such resources as fish, algae or salt. As simple fishing boats were developed, coastal inhabitants became ...
[131]
Human Settlements on the Coast - UN Atlas of the Oceans: Subtopic
Fish stocks, fresh water, soils and beach sands are often overexploited, at great economic and ecological cost. Increasing volumes of waste, particularly sewage ...
[132]
The Ganges river basin - GRID-Arendal
Today, the Ganges river basin is the most populated river basin in the world with 400 million people. It has a population density of about 390 people per km2.
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[PDF] THE GANGES–BRAHMAPUTRA DELTA
Most of the Ganges– Brahmaputra delta is contained within, or seaward, of Bangladesh, a country of some 140 million inhabitants with a population density ...
[134]
Perilous Future for River Deltas - Geological Society of America
Since the completion of the High Aswan Dam, however, the lack of water, replenishing sediments, and high subsidence has led to greater shoreline erosion and ...<|separator|>
[135]
[PDF] Late Bronze Age Harbours in the Aegean
The term in this case includes principally coastal sites in locations favourable for maritime activities, with massive imported items or products to be exported ...
[136]
Historical coastal evolution of the ancient harbor of Aegina in ...
Settlement of the island continued during the Early Bronze Age (2500–2000 BC). By the Middle Bronze Age (2000–1600 BC) Aegina was involved in seafaring and ...
[137]
THE Catalogue of Ancient Coastal Settlements, Ports and Harbours
Bronze Age peoples often chose a coastal hilltop for their settlement, obviously for defensive reasons, and their boats were left on the nearest beach or creek ...
[138]
The world's 10 biggest megacities and their changing populations
Aug 14, 2023 · 1) Tokyo, Japan – 37.1 million ... Tokyo is the world's largest city – with a population size four times larger than London – but its population ...
[139]
Tokyo Is The Biggest City In The World... Or Is It? - IFLScience
May 15, 2025 · Tokyo is often called the largest city in the world because of its gigantic population, with over 37 million inhabitants within its grasp ...
[140]
Coastal populations are booming, accelerating human and ...
Dec 14, 2024 · Coastal cities are often economic hubs, meaning job opportunities, access to trade, and exposure to bustling communities. These areas also offer ...
[141]
Capture fisheries production - FAO Knowledge Repository
In 2022, global capture fisheries production reached 92.3 million tonnes, comprising 91.0 million tonnes (live weight equivalent) of aquatic animals and 1.3 ...
[142]
Towards blue transformation
Taking account of dependents, it is estimated that 600 million people rely on the fisheries and aquaculture sector for their livelihoods. The impact of the ...
[143]
Sustainable Seafood for People and Planet | World Wildlife Fund
More than 3 billion people in the world rely on wild-caught and farmed seafood as a significant source of animal protein.
[144]
Sating our energy hunger - World Ocean Review
Offshore oil extraction currently accounts for 37 per cent of global production. At present, 28 per cent of global gas production takes place offshore – and ...
[145]
North Sea oil - Wikipedia
Oil production started from the Argyll & Duncan Oilfields (now the Ardmore) in June 1975 followed by Forties Oil Field in November of that year.History · Licensing · Reserves and production · Peaking and decline
[146]
Shipping data: UNCTAD releases new seaborne trade statistics
Apr 23, 2025 · Maritime transport is the backbone of global trade, moving over 80% of goods traded worldwide by volume. It connects global value chains, ...
[147]
Shanghai remains world's top container port by TEUs
Jan 3, 2024 · The container throughput of Shanghai Port reached 49 million twenty-foot equivalent units (TEUs) in 2023, ranking first globally for 14 consecutive years.
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Salt evaporation pond - Wikipedia
A salt evaporation pond is a shallow artificial salt pan designed to extract salts from sea water or other brines. The salt pans are shallow and expansive, ...
[149]
What is phosphate and how is it used? - OCP Group
Morocco has 70% of the world's phosphate reserves, and OCP is responsible for mining, processing, manufacturing, exporting and maximizing its value.<|separator|>
[150]
30+ Beach Tourism Statistics [2025 Edition] - hotelagio.com
Sep 29, 2025 · The global beach tourism market was worth about USD 281 billion in 2024, with projections reaching USD 466.7 billion by 2033 if current growth ...
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https://www.hawaiibusiness.com/surf-competition-pumps-millions-into-oahu-economy/
[152]
[PDF] healthy beaches drive florida's economy
Florida beaches have an annual recreational value of about $50 billion ... • A 1% decline in spending by Florida beach tourists reduces sales tax revenues by more.
[153]
Comparison of the number of annual visits to beaches with other ...
The number of beach visits annually is over 225% greater than the combined 1.5 billion visits of all of these attractions combined (Figure 3). Beach tourists ...Missing: global | Show results with:global
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Surf Competition Pumps Millions into Oahu Economy
Dec 9, 2017 · An economic study of the 2010 Triple Crown calculated the series pumped $21 million into Oahu's economy.
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Health Benefits of the Beach - UPMC HealthBeat
Jan 1, 2018 · Excellent Source of Vitamin D Sun exposure also increases endorphins and prevents some autoimmune diseases. A deficiency in Vitamin D can lead ...
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History of the Côte d'Azur: Fishing Villages to Resorts - Blog
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Cultural heritage - Coastal Wiki
Sep 6, 2020 · Coastal zones are an important element of Europe's cultural history, as the history of most European and global societies is closely connected ...
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Riddle solved: Why was Roman concrete so durable? - MIT News
Jan 6, 2023 · MIT researchers have discovered that ancient Romans used calcium-rich mineral deposits to build durable infrastructure, reports Daniel Cusick ...Missing: Britain enduring
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Jan 17, 2025 · Around 17% of the country's current land area has been reclaimed from the sea or lakes. You can see a gif of this process below: Netherlands ...1. Historical Land... · A. Polder System · Dike Vs Dam What's The...
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[PDF] HISTORY OF DIKES AND POLDERS IN THE NETHERLANDS
Approximately 27 percent of the Netherlands is actually below sea level. ... Since the 1300s, more than 7800 square kilometers of land has been reclaimed from the ...
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Galveston's Response to the Hurricane of 1900 | TX Almanac
The resulting jetties did their work as planned: In October 1896, the largest cargo ship in the world, drawing 21 feet, docked at Galveston wharves. Imports ...
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The Thames Barrier - GOV.UK
The Thames Barrier has been closed 221 times for flood defence purposes, since it became operational in 1982 - correct as at 16 April 2024. Of these closures:.Forecasting closures · How the Thames Barrier works · Thames Barrier closures
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How Seawalls Make Beach Erosion Worse - OB Rag
Dec 17, 2024 · All the studies have shown that seawalls are not only not the solution, but tend to make the original problem even worse. By thinking long term ...
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Groynes trap sediments from longshore drift to protect the coast behind the sand layer i from erosion. Their effectiveness depends on their extension into the ...Missing: seawalls flanking meta- 2020s
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[PDF] Ecological Consequences of Shoreline Hardening: A Meta-Analysis
As coastal development increases, the type and location of shoreline hardening could greatly affect the habitat value and functioning of nearshore ecosystems.Missing: groynes flanking 2020s
[167]
A century of U.S. beach nourishment - ScienceDirect.com
Jan 1, 2021 · Over 1.2 billion m3 of sand has nourished the beaches of 475 US communities since 1923. · The US states of CA, FL, NJ, NC, NY, and LA have placed ...
[168]
Shoreline retreat and beach nourishment are projected to increase ...
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(PDF) 'Building with nature': The new Dutch approach to coastal and ...
Aug 10, 2025 · The Netherlands has adopted a new, proactive approach to developing its extensive coastal and river works called 'building with nature'.
[170]
[PDF] Development of the Sand Motor - Climate-ADAPT
The Sand Motor on the Delfland Coast was created in 2011 as a peninsula covering 128 hectares. It is an innovative pilot project for coastline management ...
[171]
Unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) for coastal protection assessment
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[172]
Evaluation of UAV LiDAR for Mapping Coastal Environments - MDPI
Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV)-based remote sensing techniques have demonstrated great potential for monitoring rapid shoreline changes.Missing: maintenance | Show results with:maintenance<|separator|>
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Seeing is Saving: How Drone LiDAR is Reducing Costs in ...
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Coastal Erosion Analysis and Monitoring Using UAVs
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Storm Surge & Coastal Flooding - NOLA Ready
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[176]
Quantifiable community resilience solutions for coastal communities ...
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Sediment accretion and organic carbon burial relative to sea-level ...
Accretion rates were 5.9 and 6.5 mm yr−1 within the storm deposit compared to overall rates of 2.5 and 3.6 mm yr−1. These rates were found to be matching or ...Missing: restoration concrete walls field
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Synergetic Roles of Mangrove Vegetation on Sediment Accretion in ...
Our results demonstrate the synergetic roles of mangrove plantations in which the aboveground structures facilitate sediment redeposition and the belowground ...
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[180]
Room for the river | STOWA
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[181]
Making room for the four main rivers | Resilient Watersheds Toolbox
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[182]
Local Research with Global Effects: Coastal Scientists Study El Niño ...
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[PDF] COASTAL FLOODING-POTENTIAL PROJECTIONS: 2000–2100
During great El Niños, such as the 1982––83 and 1997––98 events, sea level along the California coast can be elevated by 15––20 cm for more than 6 months, ...<|separator|>
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template for Plio–Pleistocene sea-level changes and sequence ...
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Why the World's Rivers Are Losing Sediment and Why It Matters
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[192]
Long-term sediment decline causes ongoing shrinkage of ... - Nature
May 15, 2020 · The Mekong River delta has suffered a large decline in sediment supply causing coastal erosion, following catchment disturbance through hydropower dam ...
[193]
(PDF) Long-term sediment decline causes ongoing shrinkage of the ...
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[194]
Impervious Surfaces and Flooding | U.S. Geological Survey
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Data in Action: The rate of global sea level rise doubled ... - PO.DAAC
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Chapter 11: Weather and Climate Extreme Events in a Changing ...
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Coastal dune dynamics in embayed settings with sea-level rise
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Climate Change Indicators: Sea Level | US EPA
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Impact of dams on Yangtze River sediment supply to the sea and ...
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Sand Loss Behind Dams - Division of Boating and Waterways
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Aug 10, 2021 · Our model highlights that the significant reduction in sand supply due to tens of thousands of river dams and its consequences on coastal erosion could be ...<|separator|>
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Coastal subsidence increases vulnerability to sea level rise over ...
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Hidden vulnerability of US Atlantic coast to sea-level rise due to ...
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Sea-level variability and change along the Norwegian coast ... - OS
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The acceleration of sea-level rise along the coast of the Netherlands ...
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World's largest dam removal reverses coastal erosion - Nature
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Climate Change: Global Sea Level
Global average sea level has risen 8-9 inches since 1880, and the rate is accelerating thanks to glacier and ice sheet melt.
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Climate change transforms Pacific Islands
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Chapter 4: Sea Level Rise and Implications for Low-Lying Islands ...
This chapter assesses past and future contributions to global, regional and extreme sea level changes, associated risk to low-lying islands, coasts, cities, ...<|separator|>
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[PDF] Mass balance of the Greenland Ice Sheet from 1992 to 2018 - IMBIE
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[228]
Accelerated sea-level rise is suppressing CO2 stimulation of tidal ...
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Restoration and resilience to sea level rise of a salt marsh affected ...
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[230]
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Greenland ice sheet mass balance from 1840 through next week
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Netherlands Dikes and Levees: Effective Flood Defenses - Asterra
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Facts + Statistics: Flood insurance | III
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The Watermark - National Flood Insurance Program Financial ...
Apr 14, 2025 · With this payment, the NFIP has now paid over $5.7 billion in interest since Hurricane Katrina hit the United States in 2005.
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Budget Basics: The National Flood Insurance Program
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Louisiana Pulls Plug on $3B Sediment Diversion Project
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Trajectory economics: Assessing the flow of ecosystem services ...
For this analysis, acreage trajectories and cost functions are developed for dredge- and diversion-based land reclamation methods in coastal Louisiana, USA.<|separator|>
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Barriers to Coastal Managed Retreat: Evidence from New Jersey's ...
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Barriers to Coastal Managed Retreat: Evidence from New Jersey's ...
Managed retreat is a climate adaptation strategy involving government buyouts of at-risk properties that is currently underutilized in coastal areas of the ...
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Resilient Coasts and Estuaries Act of 2025 - H.R.2786 - Congress.gov
Apr 9, 2025 · A bill to allow the Secretary of Commerce to establish a Coastal and Estuarine Resilience and Restoration Program, and for other purposes.