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Jointer plane

A jointer plane, also known as a try plane or trying plane, is a specialized hand plane in woodworking, characterized by its extended length—typically 20 to 30 inches (510 to 760 mm)—designed to produce straight, flat edges and surfaces on lumber for accurate joinery and assembly.^[1] This tool features a long sole that ensures even planing over bowed or twisted boards, with a blade often set at a 45-degree common pitch and adjustable mouth to control shavings and tear-out.^[2] Primarily used after rough stock removal with a fore plane and before final smoothing, it excels at jointing board edges for glue-ups, such as creating spring joints or flattening panels up to twice its length.^[1] The jointer plane's origins trace back to at least the 17th century in England, where it was described by Joseph Moxon in his 1677 treatise Mechanick Exercises on the Whole Art of Carpentry as a longer tool than the fore plane, with a perfectly straight sole for truing edges.^[3] Early versions were wooden-bodied, crafted from hardwoods like beech or oak, secured with a wedge and crosspin, reflecting medieval advancements in plane design that evolved from Roman iron-shod tools dating to the 1st century AD.^[4] By the 19th century, metallic iterations emerged through Leonard Bailey's 1867 patent for adjustable bench planes, which standardized components like the frog and cap iron, leading to mass production by companies such as Stanley Rule and Level after 1869.^[4] Jointer planes come in two main types: traditional wooden models, often 24 to 30 inches long for heavy flattening tasks, and metallic ones like the Stanley No. 7 (22 inches, 2-3/8-inch blade) or No. 8 (24 inches, 2-5/8-inch blade), which offer greater durability and precision adjustments.^[1] In practice, the blade may be cambered slightly (e.g., 0.008-inch sweep) to avoid deep central grooves during face planing, and the tool is wielded diagonally across the grain for initial leveling before straight-line passes.^[2] Today, while power jointers have largely supplanted them in production shops, hand jointer planes remain essential for fine woodworking, restoring vintage stock, and achieving superior surface quality without machine marks.^[1]

History

Origins and Early Use

The earliest precursors to the jointer plane emerged in ancient Roman woodworking, with archaeological evidence from Pompeii excavations revealing planes dating to 79 AD. These tools featured simple wooden bodies fitted with iron blades, primarily employed for smoothing and shaping wood surfaces in construction and furniture making. Such implements represent the foundational development of planing technology, transitioning from rudimentary scraping methods to more efficient blade-based smoothing.^[5] In medieval Europe, during the 15th and 16th centuries, planes underwent notable refinements that advanced their functionality. Craftsmen introduced grooved wedges to secure the blade more reliably, supplanting earlier loose wedge or crossbar mechanisms and allowing for precise adjustments under use. Concurrently, tools evolved from versatile smoothing planes to elongated versions optimized for edge straightening, enabling woodworkers to align boards accurately for assembly and reducing the need for secondary truing. This specialization reflected growing demands in joinery and cabinetmaking across regions like France and the Netherlands.^[6] The designation "jointer plane" first appeared in 17th-century English woodworking texts, notably in Joseph Moxon's Mechanick Exercises on the Whole Art of Carpentry (1677), where it denoted a long plane used to create straight edges for seamless joinery in frames and panels. By the 18th century, the synonymous term "try plane" gained prominence in records, emphasizing its function in verifying and refining flatness to ensure "true" alignment in woodworking projects. These names underscored the tool's pivotal role in achieving precision without mechanical aids.^[7]^[8] Within pre-industrial woodworking shops, the jointer plane occupied a key position in the hierarchical sequence of bench planes, succeeding the coarser fore plane—which removed bulk and initial irregularities—and preceding the smoothing plane for final finish. This progression, detailed in period treatises like Moxon's, allowed artisans to methodically prepare lumber for durable joints in everything from household furniture to architectural elements, embodying the labor-intensive craft of hand-planing before widespread mechanization.^[7]

Modern Developments

The transition to cast-iron bodies for jointer planes began in the early 19th century, with American inventor Hazard Knowles patenting the first known cast-iron bench plane in 1827, designed to replicate wooden plane forms at lower cost through mass casting techniques.^[9] This innovation addressed durability issues in wooden planes while enabling standardization, though initial adoption was limited. By the 1860s, Leonard Bailey advanced the design with patents for adjustable metal bench planes, including mechanisms for precise blade positioning and frog adjustments, which facilitated commercial production and consistent performance across longer jointer models.^[10] Bailey's designs, patented between 1858 and 1869, emphasized cast-iron construction for rigidity, leading to widespread standardization in American manufacturing.^[11] In 1869, the Stanley Rule & Level Company acquired Bailey's patents, enabling the mass production of the first widely available metal jointer planes, notably the No. 7 (22 inches long, approximately 8 pounds) and No. 8 (24 inches long, approximately 9 pounds) models by the 1870s.^[12]^[13] These planes featured cast-iron bodies with adjustable frogs and integrated chipbreakers, improving chip ejection and reducing tear-out compared to earlier wooden versions, and they became the benchmark for factory-made tools due to their balance of weight, length, and adjustability.^[14] Throughout the 20th century, refinements included enhanced adjustable mouths—allowing users to narrow the throat opening for finer shavings and better dust control—and improved chipbreakers with tighter blade seating, driven by advances in precision casting and heat-treated steel components.^[15] These updates, implemented by manufacturers like Stanley during the interwar period, optimized jointer planes for industrial woodworking while maintaining compatibility with traditional techniques.^[16] Post-World War II, the rise of powered jointers and planers led to a sharp decline in hand-tool jointer plane usage, as electric machines offered faster processing for large-scale production, reducing demand for manual models by the 1950s.^[17] Quality in remaining hand-plane production also waned, with cost-cutting measures like thinner castings and softer irons affecting durability.^[16] A revival emerged in the late 20th century amid growing interest in artisanal woodworking, exemplified by Lie-Nielsen Toolworks, founded in 1981, which reproduced high-fidelity metal jointer planes based on Bailey and Stanley designs but incorporated modern materials like ductile iron and cryogenically treated high-carbon steel for superior tolerances and longevity.^[18]^[19] This resurgence emphasized precision machining and historical accuracy, restoring the jointer plane's role in fine craftsmanship.^[20]

Design and Components

Body and Sole

The body of a jointer plane is typically rectangular in shape, providing a stable platform for extended strokes across wood surfaces. In traditional wooden models, it is constructed from dense hardwoods such as beech or maple, chosen for their stability and resistance to warping under use.^[21]^[22] These materials allow the body to measure 20 to 30 inches in length, enabling the plane to bridge undulations in rough lumber and establish a straight reference surface. In contrast, modern metal jointer planes feature bodies cast from ductile iron, which are stress-relieved during manufacturing to ensure dimensional stability and flatness over time; for example, the Lie-Nielsen No. 7 model uses ductile iron for its 22-inch body.^[23] The sole forms the elongated bottom surface of the jointer plane, essential for gliding smoothly and imparting flatness to the workpiece. Standard soles measure 22 to 24 inches in length, with the extended reach promoting even pressure distribution and accurate jointing of edges or faces. High-quality soles are machined or ground to precise flatness, often to a tolerance of 0.0015 inches across the toe, heel, and mouth area, ensuring reliable contact points for straight results.^[23]^[24] Handles enhance ergonomics by facilitating two-handed operation, which is crucial for the controlled, diagonal strokes used in jointing. The front knob, often palm- or handle-style and made from contoured wood like cherry, allows precise guidance, while the rear tote provides a comfortable grip for propulsion; these are oiled or waxed for a secure hold during prolonged use. In wooden jointer planes, the blade is secured via a tapered wedge driven into the body, which also integrates with the handles for overall rigidity. Metal versions employ a lever cap mechanism atop the frog to clamp the blade firmly, complementing the ergonomic handles without altering the body's core structure.^[23]^[25] The mouth opening, located at the front of the sole where the blade emerges, is a narrow adjustable aperture typically set to 1/16 to 1/8 inch wide to produce fine shavings and reduce tear-out, particularly on figured woods. Adjustment is achieved by shifting the frog forward or backward in metal planes via screws, or by tapering the escapement in wooden models to fine-tune the gap relative to the blade. This controlled opening supports the plane's role in creating smooth, reference-quality surfaces by directing shavings efficiently while maintaining cutting support.^[26]^[23]

Blade and Iron

The blade, often referred to as the iron, of a jointer plane is typically constructed from high-carbon tool steels such as A2 or O1, which are cryogenically treated and hardened to Rockwell 60-62 for enhanced edge retention and durability.^[23]^[27] These materials resist wear during extended use on hardwoods, providing a balance between sharpness and longevity without excessive brittleness. Standard blade dimensions for jointer planes include a width of 2 to 2.5 inches, allowing for efficient coverage on edges and faces, and a thickness of approximately 0.125 to 0.187 inches to minimize chatter and ensure stability during cuts.^[23]^[28] The bevel angle is commonly ground at 25 degrees, with honing to 25-30 degrees recommended for optimal cutting performance, as this range offers sufficient clearance while maintaining edge strength.^[29]^[30] The blade profile is generally straight across for face planing to produce flat surfaces, but for edge jointing, a slight lateral camber—achieved by rounding the corners with a subtle radius—is preferred to create a shallow hollow in the workpiece, ensuring full edge-to-edge contact during glue-ups without leaving ridges.^[31]^[32] This camber allows the plane to remove high spots incrementally while avoiding over-cutting the corners. A chipbreaker, typically a thin steel plate, is secured directly behind the blade to curl and break wood shavings as they form, preventing clogging in the plane's mouth and reducing tear-out on difficult grains.^[33]^[23] It is set in close proximity to the blade edge, often 1/16 inch or less, to maximize its shearing effect on the chip. In traditional metal jointer planes, the blade is bedded at a 45-degree common pitch within the frog assembly, promoting efficient material removal with bevel-down orientation.^[23]^[30] Some modern metal designs use bevel-up configurations with lower bed angles. Installation involves securing the blade to the chipbreaker and yoke, with depth adjusted via a front knob and lateral alignment fine-tuned using levers to ensure the cutting edge is perfectly square to the sole for precise jointing.^[23]^[28]

Types

Traditional Wooden Jointer Planes

Traditional wooden jointer planes feature a solid hardwood body, commonly crafted from beech or hornbeam for their workability and resistance to wear, with the blade secured by a wooden wedge against a crossbar or groove. In 18th-century designs, these planes could extend up to 30 inches in length to provide a long sole for effective edge jointing, and their construction results in a lighter weight of approximately 4-6 pounds, facilitating easier handling during extended use.^[4]^[34]^[35]^[36] These planes hold significant historical importance as staples in pre-1900 woodworking workshops, valued for their straightforward design and affordability, which made them accessible to a wide range of craftsmen including joiners and cabinetmakers. Their prevalence underscores the reliance on hand tools before widespread industrialization, with examples such as English molding planes often adapted for jointing duties to achieve straight edges on boards.^[4] Key advantages of traditional wooden jointer planes include the natural vibration dampening provided by the hardwood body, leading to quieter operation and reduced chatter during planing compared to metal alternatives; the mouth opening can also be finely adjusted by tapping the wedge, allowing for versatile control over cut depth. Despite these benefits, the wooden construction makes them prone to warping in humid environments, which requires regular truing of the sole to ensure flatness and precision.^[4]^[37] In contemporary settings, these planes remain available through artisans who replicate traditional methods, frequently employing exotic woods like lignum vitae for soles to enhance longevity and performance in demanding conditions.^[34]

Metal Jointer Planes

Metal jointer planes, introduced in the late 19th century, represent a shift toward industrialized woodworking tools with durable, adjustable designs that became industry standards. Leonard Bailey's patents, acquired by Stanley Rule & Level in 1869, established the foundational configuration for these planes, featuring a frog-mounted blade system that allowed for precise adjustments in depth and alignment. The Bailey/Stanley No. 7, measuring 22 inches in length and weighing approximately 8 pounds, and the No. 8, at 24 inches and about 9.75 pounds, emerged as benchmark models in the 1870s, widely adopted for their reliability in jointing edges and flattening surfaces.^[13] These planes typically feature a cast-iron body, providing exceptional rigidity and resistance to deformation under use, with the sole precision-ground for flatness. Key adjustments include a lateral lever for blade alignment and a depth screw on the frog for fine-tuning the cut, enabling users to adapt quickly to different woods or tasks. Vintage models often incorporated nickel plating on components like the lever cap and frog to enhance corrosion resistance and maintain smooth operation over time. The modular design, with interchangeable parts such as blades and frogs, facilitates repairs and customization, making these planes suitable for both professional workshops and hobbyist environments.^[13]^[38] Compared to wooden counterparts, metal jointer planes offer superior flatness retention due to the stable cast-iron construction, which resists warping from humidity or repeated impacts. Their heavier mass generates momentum during cuts, reducing user fatigue on long strokes and improving efficiency on hardwoods or irregular grain. This combination of weight and durability minimizes blade chatter, ensuring smoother finishes.^[39]^[40] Modern reproductions build on this legacy with enhanced materials and precision manufacturing. For instance, Veritas jointer planes use fully stress-relieved ductile cast iron for the body, weighing around 7.5 pounds in 22-inch models, to further improve stability and sole flatness. Clifton variants incorporate thicker blades, up to 0.12 inches, to eliminate chatter and maintain sharp edges longer, often paired with a Bedrock-style frog for seamless adjustments. These high-end options cater to contemporary woodworkers seeking performance upgrades while preserving the classic form.^[28]^[40]

Usage

Basic Techniques

To begin using a jointer plane, secure the workpiece firmly in a bench vise or on a shooting board to prevent movement during planing. Sight along the edge or face to identify high spots, which can be marked with a pencil for targeted removal, and adjust the blade depth to produce light shavings approximately 0.002 to 0.005 inches thick, equivalent to the thickness of note paper, ensuring the throat opening is set slightly wider than this depth for smooth operation without clogging.^[41] For edge jointing, clamp the board upright in a side vise or use a jointer gauge to maintain perpendicularity to the adjacent face, then plane with the grain direction using long, even strokes that start with pressure on the plane's toe and shift to the heel as the full sole contacts the wood. Begin by traversing diagonally across identified high areas to level them efficiently, then progress to full-length strokes parallel to the edge; check for straightness and twist by sighting down the edge or using a pair of winding sticks placed at the board's ends, adjusting cuts to eliminate any revealed discrepancies.^[41] Face flattening follows a similar approach but on the board's broader surface: after initial roughing with a jack or scrub plane if needed, traverse the length with the jointer plane, overlapping each stroke by about half the blade width to ensure uniform coverage and full sole contact along the reference straightedge. Apply even pressure across the plane body with both hands—one steadying the front and the other driving from the rear—while skewing the plane slightly at 45 to 60 degrees for better slicing action through the grain and reduced tearout.^[41] Safety is paramount when operating a jointer plane; always wear eye protection to guard against flying chips, grip the plane securely with both hands to maintain control, and avoid forcing heavy cuts that could cause the blade to bind or kick back, instead relying on a sharp iron and light passes to minimize effort and risk. Lay the plane on its side or rest the toe on scrap wood when not in use to protect the exposed blade.^[41]

Advanced Applications

In advanced woodworking applications, the jointer plane plays a critical role in preparing edges for glue-ups by creating perfectly mating surfaces that are planed to a precise 90-degree square relative to the board face. Woodworkers achieve this by systematically removing high spots along the edge, frequently checking squareness with a try square and straightness with a precision straightedge to ensure uniform contact across the joint line. For enhanced joint integrity in long panels, a slight hollow—typically 0.010 to 0.020 inches deep in the center of the edge—is intentionally planed into the mating surfaces, known as a spring joint; this configuration allows the ends to meet first during clamping, drawing the center together under compression for gap-free adhesion without rocking or misalignment.^[42]^[43] Flattening large panels, such as tabletops or doors assembled from multiple edge-joined boards, extends the jointer plane's utility beyond single edges to comprehensive surface truing. After jointing and gluing boards edge-to-edge, the plane is used to traverse across seams and the full width, starting with diagonal strokes to level high areas before progressing to lengthwise passes that bridge low spots for overall flatness. Progress is verified using long straightedges held at multiple angles to detect any remaining undulations, ensuring the panel achieves the necessary planarity for stable assembly in furniture or cabinetry.^[44] Within hand-tool workflows, the jointer plane integrates seamlessly into the stock preparation sequence, following the jack plane—which handles initial rough stock removal and dimensioning—and preceding the smoothing plane for final surface refinement. This progression is essential for projects like doors, frames, and cabinet panels, where the jointer's length (typically 22 to 26 inches) excels at creating reference faces and edges true to fine tolerances, typically within 0.005 inches over several feet, providing a reliable foundation for subsequent joinery without power tools.^[45]^[46] Troubleshooting common defects such as cupping or bowing demands targeted application of the jointer plane to convex areas, preventing over-removal of material from low spots that could weaken the board. For cupping, the board is oriented convex side up, and the plane is angled to skim high edges while the sole's toe and heel act as natural stops, gradually leveling the arch until the center aligns with the margins; bowing is addressed similarly by planing the crown along the length, using winding sticks or straightedges to isolate and reduce the curve iteratively. In fine woodworking, these techniques enable tolerances under 0.005 inches across the surface, critical for seamless integration in high-precision assemblies like tabletops where even minor deviations could compromise durability.^[44]^[47]

Maintenance

Sharpening and Honing

To maintain the cutting edge of a jointer plane blade, begin by removing it from the plane body. For traditional wooden jointer planes, loosen the wedge by tapping it gently with a mallet to release the blade and chipbreaker, then slide them out; clean the bevel and back surfaces with a soft cloth to remove debris and old honing compound. For metal jointer planes, such as Bailey-pattern models, loosen the lever cap screw with a screwdriver to lift off the lever cap, then withdraw the blade and chipbreaker from the frog; wipe the bevel and back clean to prepare for sharpening.^[48] The sharpening process starts with grinding the primary bevel at approximately 25 degrees using a bench grinder or coarse sharpening stones to establish the main edge geometry, ensuring even removal of nicks or dullness across the blade width. Follow this by honing a secondary micro-bevel at 30 degrees—about 5 degrees steeper than the primary—to create a refined cutting edge; use waterstones progressing from 1000 grit for initial shaping to 8000 grit for polishing, or diamond plates of equivalent coarseness for faster material removal and flatter results. The chipbreaker, which curls shavings to prevent tear-out, should be briefly referenced here as its leading edge contacts the blade back just behind the honed bevel, but detailed adjustment is covered elsewhere.^[49]^[50] Back lapping ensures the blade back remains flat for precise contact with the plane sole, starting on an 8000-grit stone or finer abrasive with circular strokes to remove any high spots near the edge, achieving a mirror polish over the first 1-2 inches from the cutting edge. For jointer plane blades, which require a slight camber to avoid ridges in jointed surfaces, sharpen with targeted pressure: apply 10 circular strokes at each corner on 1000-grit, 6 strokes one-third in from the corners, and 2 strokes at the center, repeating across finer grits to form a subtle camber of 0.002-0.005 inches, with the center of the cutting edge protruding relative to the corners.^[49]^[50] Hone the blade after 30-60 minutes of continuous use, depending on wood hardness and cut depth, to restore the edge before performance degrades into tear-out or scalloping. Test sharpness by lightly drawing the blade edge across arm hair, which should shear cleanly without pulling, or by planing end grain, yielding a smooth surface free of tear-out or fuzziness.^[51]^[52]

Sole and Body Care

Maintaining the sole and body of a jointer plane is essential for preserving its accuracy and longevity, particularly given the tool's role in creating straight edges and flat surfaces. The sole, which contacts the workpiece, must remain flat to ensure even pressure distribution, while the body requires protection from environmental factors like moisture and residue buildup.

Sole Flattening

Flattening the sole begins with securing a reliable flat reference surface, such as a granite plate or the cast-iron bed of a jointer, and attaching self-adhesive sandpaper (starting with 60-80 grit) to it. For a metal jointer plane like a No. 8, lap the sole using circular and figure-eight motions to remove high spots, focusing initially on the convex areas near the toe and heel; progress to finer grits (up to 320) for a smooth finish. Wooden jointer plane soles can be flattened similarly on sandpaper affixed to a flat substrate like plywood or glass, using a straightedge to mark and remove material until no gaps exceed 0.001 inches over the full length. Check flatness throughout by placing a precision straightedge (e.g., 24-inch steel model) along the sole's length and width, marking any light gaps with a marker and re-lapping until uniform contact is achieved; aim for the toe, mouth, and heel to be coplanar within a few thousandths of an inch for optimal performance.^[53]^[54]^[55]

Cleaning

Pitch and resin buildup on the sole and body can be removed using a scraper followed by a citrus-based solvent like Krud Kutter, applied with a brush and wiped clean; for stubborn residues, soak briefly and scrub with a nylon pad to avoid scratching. On metal planes, light rust is addressed by soaking in a phosphoric acid solution (e.g., naval jelly) or evaporust for 10-30 minutes, then scrubbing with a non-metallic abrasive like Scotch-Brite pads or fine steel wool (0000 grade), followed by drying and a light oil wipe to prevent flash rust. For wooden bodies, clean with a mild soap solution or denatured alcohol to remove grime without swelling the wood, then dry thoroughly. After cleaning metal surfaces, apply a thin coat of paste wax (e.g., Johnson's) buffed to a sheen for corrosion protection; wooden bodies benefit from a mixture of boiled linseed oil and beeswax rubbed in sparingly to nourish the wood and prevent drying cracks, applied every few months or as needed.^[56]^[57]^[58]^[59]^[24]

Adjustments

The mouth opening, which controls shaving thickness and tear-out, is adjusted on metal jointer planes by loosening the frog adjustment screws and sliding the frog forward to narrow the opening (typically to 1/16 inch or less for fine work) or backward for coarser cuts, then retightening while ensuring the blade remains supported. On wooden jointer planes, tap the wedge lightly with a mallet to seat it tighter and reduce the mouth, or use thin shims behind the blade for precise control; avoid over-tightening to prevent binding. Store the plane in a dry environment with low humidity (below 50%) to minimize sole warping in wooden models or corrosion in metal ones, using a protective case or hanging rack away from workshop dampness.^[60]^[61]

Inspection

Regularly inspect the sole for uneven wear, particularly at the toe and heel, using a straightedge to detect deviations greater than 0.001 inches that could affect jointing accuracy; on vintage tools, examine the body for cracks or loose dovetails, which may require professional repair. Check wooden handles and bodies for splits from dryness, and metal frogs for play in the adjustment mechanism, addressing issues promptly to maintain structural integrity.^[55]^[54]

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Clifton Bench Planes
### Features of Clifton Jointer Planes (No. 7 or Similar)
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[PDF] · ARRETT HACK - Wood Tools
jointer or try plane for shooting edges and accurately flattening panels, and a smoothing plane for finishing surfaces. They were the hardest working planes ...
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https://www.rockler.com/learn/how-to-prepare-edge-joints-with-hand-planes-video-by-cfc
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How to Prepare Edge Joints with Hand Planes - Rockler
Nov 2, 2021 · Tim Rousseau demonstrates how a sharp plane can help make perfectly smooth wood that allows for solid edge joints.
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Flattening Boards with Hand Planes: The Best Way to Improve Your Skills
### Techniques for Flattening Boards with Hand Planes
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Hand Plane Basics | Samuel Colchamiro - Highland Woodworking
In order for you to take a fine shaving with a jack plane, the board needs to be far flatter than it does for a smoother to take the same shaving because ...
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The Myth of Sole Flatness | Virginia Toolworks
Apr 18, 2020 · Lie Nielsen states that their modern manufacture plane soles are 'ground flat and square to .0015″ or better, regardless of length.' Veritas ...
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Downloads - Lie-Nielsen Toolworks
A detailed guide that will help you learn our sharpening method. This PDF covers our recommended sharpening supplies, how to hone a blade that is new.
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[PDF] BASIC PLANE BLADE SHARPENING - Highland Woodworking
Resharpening chisel bevels you can use only the 8000 grit until it takes too long to raise the wire edge. Then go back to the. 1000 grit. For more information ...
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Woodworking 101: Basic Sharpening
May 1, 2012 · Sharpen a Plane Blade · 1. Get a flat back. · 2. Check the edge for square. · 3. Put the blade in the jig. · 4. To hone a straight secondary bevel.
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https://robcosman.com/pages/newsletter-article-how-to-test-for-sharp-and-dull
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How long does plane blade last between touching up.
Jan 14, 2013 · Plane blade lifespan varies greatly depending on material, blade type, and use. Some may last 3 months, while others need frequent sharpening, ...How often do you hone your irons?Bench planes -- how long between re-honing?More results from sawmillcreek.org
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Flattening a Plane Sole, Part 4 - Lapping a Leviathan
Jul 5, 2022 · Probe for flatness along the ridges using a straight edge. I would check close to the middle of the sole and on the ridges close to the edges.
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Wooden planes - Maintenance and care
### Procedures for Wooden Planes Maintenance and Care
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https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/how-flat-does-my-plane-need-to-be
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Cleaning Pitch off Cutterheads - Woodweb
Try Purple Power or Castrol super clean. They dissolve buildup very quick. From contributor M: Another vote for Easy-Off. Also, I treat the blades with talc ...
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https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/handplanes/cleaning-and-repairing-a-handplane-ep-3
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https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/handplanes/salt-and-vinegar-natures-rust-remover
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https://www.finewoodworking.com/2007/09/01/polishing-wooden-bodied-planes
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https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/bench/72533-veritas-custom-number-7-jointer-plane
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Dealing With A Wide Mouth On Wooden Planes
Jun 22, 2015 · A cap iron can control your tear out regardless of mouth width, as we covered in our videos here, but a huge gapping mouth on a smoothing plane ...