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Smoothing plane

A smoothing plane is a hand tool essential to woodworking, designed to remove thin shavings from wood surfaces to achieve a smooth, flat finish in the final stages of preparation.^[1] Typically measuring 8 to 10 inches in length, it features a compact body, often made of cast iron or wood, with a blade set at approximately 45 degrees to the sole for precise control.^[2] This tool is particularly valued for its ability to refine surfaces after rougher planing, leaving a glass-like quality suitable for furniture and joinery.^[3] The origins of the smoothing plane trace back to ancient civilizations, with evidence of early plane-like tools appearing in Egyptian hieroglyphics and Roman artifacts from the 1st century AD.^[4] By the 15th century in Europe, wooden smoothing planes had evolved into more standardized forms with squared bodies, wedge-secured blades, and a 45-degree bed angle, enabling finer surface work.^[4] A major advancement occurred between 1750 and 1770 with the introduction of the double-iron configuration—a primary blade paired with a chip-breaker—to minimize tear-out on figured woods, a design principle still in use today.^[4] From the mid-19th century onward, metallic construction dominated, exemplified by the Stanley No. 4 model introduced in the 1860s, which standardized the tool's form with adjustable frogs and levers for enhanced precision.^[2] In practice, smoothing planes are employed after larger bench planes like jointers or fore planes have established flatness, allowing woodworkers to address minor imperfections, trim edges, and fit components tightly.^[2] Common variants include the standard No. 4 (about 10 inches long with a 2-inch blade) for general work and the slightly wider No. 4½ for broader surfaces, both benefiting from sharp, high-carbon steel blades to ensure clean cuts.^[1] Modern iterations from manufacturers like Lie-Nielsen and Veritas incorporate refined adjustments for blade angle and mouth opening, catering to both traditional handwork and hybrid machine-assisted processes while maintaining the tool's core function of delivering superior surface quality.^[3]

Overview

Definition and purpose

A smoothing plane is a subtype of bench plane employed in woodworking, characterized by its compact size, typically ranging from 8 to 10 inches in length, and designed primarily for the final refinement of wood surfaces after coarser planing operations.^[1]^[5]^[6] This tool features a short sole that allows it to conform to minor undulations in the wood, enabling precise control over fine shavings without bridging small defects.^[3] The primary purpose of the smoothing plane is to eliminate subtle imperfections such as tearout, mill marks, and slight irregularities, resulting in a polished, glass-like finish that prepares the wood for staining, varnishing, or other finishing processes.^[3]^[1] By taking light cuts with a sharp blade set at a low angle, often around 45 degrees or less, it shears the wood fibers cleanly, minimizing chatter and producing surfaces suitable for high-quality joinery or visible applications.^[3] This finishing capability distinguishes it from rougher tools, as its adjustable mouth and cap iron help control chip formation for optimal surface quality.^[1] Unlike power planers or sanders, which rely on mechanical action and may generate heat or dust, the smoothing plane depends on manual force applied by the woodworker, offering superior precision and tactile feedback for achieving flatness and smoothness on smaller workpieces or detailed areas.^[6]^[5] In the traditional sequence of bench planes, it serves as the culminating "finishing" tool, following the jack plane for initial stock removal and the jointer plane for edge and face truing, thereby completing the hand-planing workflow.^[5]^[1]

Basic components

The smoothing plane consists of several core components that work together to produce a fine finish on wood surfaces. The body, also known as the main frame or stock, forms the primary structure of the plane, housing the other parts and providing stability during use.^[7] Typically cast from iron or steel in modern designs, the body determines the plane's overall size and weight, with a standard No. 4 smoothing plane measuring about 9 to 10 inches in length.^[8] The sole is the flat bottom surface of the body that glides directly over the wood, ensuring even contact and guiding the tool for smooth passes; its precision flatness is essential for accurate planing.^[8] The blade, commonly called the iron, is the cutting element—a sharpened steel plate with a beveled edge that protrudes slightly through the mouth to shear thin shavings from the wood.^[7] In a smoothing plane, the blade typically extends 0.001 to 0.005 inches beyond the sole for fine cuts that minimize tearout and leave a polished surface. The cap iron, also known as the chipbreaker or back iron, attaches to the upper side of the blade and serves to curl and break wood shavings as they form, reducing chatter and preventing tearout on the wood surface.^[8] It is positioned close to the cutting edge, usually about 1/16 inch behind it, to support the blade and direct shavings away efficiently.^[8] The frog is an adjustable metal seat mounted within the body that holds the blade and cap iron at a fixed angle, typically 45 degrees in Bailey-pattern planes, and allows control over the mouth opening—the narrow gap at the front of the sole through which the blade protrudes.^[7] By adjusting the frog forward or backward, users can narrow the mouth for finer work or widen it for coarser cuts, optimizing performance based on wood type.^[8] The frog connects to adjustment mechanisms via a yoke, a forked lever that links the depth adjustment wheel to the blade assembly, enabling precise vertical movement of the blade relative to the sole.^[9] Handles include the tote, a rear grip shaped for pushing the plane, and often a front knob for guiding it, both providing ergonomic control during operation.^[8] The lever cap secures the blade and cap iron firmly against the frog, using a cam lever to apply tension and maintain stability under pressure.^[7] These components, rooted in traditional woodworking nomenclature, form the foundational anatomy of the smoothing plane.^[9]

History

Ancient and early origins

The earliest precursors to the smoothing plane emerged in ancient Egypt around 1500 BCE, where woodworkers employed adzes as primary tools for planing and smoothing surfaces on wooden artifacts such as furniture and chests. These adzes featured copper blades hafted to wooden handles, allowing craftsmen to rough-hew and finish wood by striking or scraping away material in controlled passes, as depicted in tomb reliefs and evidenced by tool marks on surviving artifacts.^[10] By the 1st century CE, the Romans had developed dedicated woodworking planes, marking a significant advancement in smoothing technology that spread across Europe through imperial construction and trade. These early planes consisted of wooden bodies reinforced with iron blades set at a fixed angle of approximately 50–66 degrees, used to produce even, curly shavings for leveling and finishing planks in furniture and building joinery; archaeological examples, including complete tools from Pompeii (pre-79 CE), confirm their use in both smoothing and molding tasks. In medieval Europe from roughly 800 to 1700 CE, wooden planes with wedged iron blades became standard among carpenters, evolving from Roman designs to facilitate finer surface preparation in architectural and furniture work. These tools, often featuring a mortised blade secured by a wooden wedge, were described in detail in Joseph Moxon's Mechanick Exercises on the Whole Art of Carpentry (1677–1683), which illustrates their construction and application for smoothing timber after initial roughing with adzes or chisels. This shift to specialized planes reflected growing standardization within carpentry guilds, where they enabled smoother finishes essential for intricate joinery and paneling in cathedrals and homes.^[11]

Modern development and innovations

A significant advancement in the mid-18th century, between 1750 and 1770, was the introduction of the double-iron configuration for smoothing planes, consisting of a primary blade paired with a chip-breaker to minimize tear-out on figured woods; this design principle remains in use today.^[4] In the mid-19th century, Leonard Bailey developed several key patents that revolutionized plane design, including mechanisms for adjustable frogs and metallic plane bodies, which allowed for more precise blade positioning and durability compared to traditional wooden constructions.^[12] These innovations, patented in the 1860s, were acquired by the Stanley Rule & Level Company in 1869, enabling the firm to produce and refine Bailey's designs on a larger scale.^[13] Following the acquisition, Stanley introduced the Bailey #4 smoothing plane around 1870, establishing it as the archetypal model for modern bench planes with its cast iron body, which provided superior stability and resistance to warping.^[14] This construction marked a significant shift toward metallic materials, enhancing the tool's precision for fine woodworking tasks. Into the 20th century, refinements continued with British manufacturer Thomas J. Norris introducing fine-adjustment wheels on smoothing planes around 1913, via a patented mechanism that improved blade control and reduced chatter for smoother finishes.^[15] Later, in the late 20th century, companies like Lie-Nielsen Toolworks (founded 1981) and Veritas Tools (introduced in the 1980s) produced high-fidelity reproductions of classic designs, incorporating modern alloys such as ductile iron and high-carbon steel for enhanced performance and longevity. Industrialization profoundly impacted smoothing plane development, as mass production techniques adopted by Stanley from the 1870s onward made these tools affordable to a broader range of woodworkers, while the transition to metallic components ensured greater consistency and precision in manufacturing.^[13]

Design and construction

Body and sole features

The body of a smoothing plane serves as the primary structural frame, housing the blade and providing stability during use. Traditional wooden smoothing planes are typically constructed from beech, valued for its hardness, shock-absorbing properties, and relative lightness, which facilitate comfortable handling over extended periods.^[16] Rosewood is often employed for accents such as the sole or wedge, offering enhanced durability and a smooth finish.^[17] In contrast, modern metallic smoothing planes utilize cast iron or ductile iron for the body, providing superior stability and resistance to warping while being coated to prevent rust.^[18]^[19] The sole, the bottom surface that contacts the workpiece, is designed for precision in smoothing planes to ensure even pressure and minimal surface disruption. It is machined to a high degree of flatness, typically within 0.001 inches across its length, allowing for consistent shavings and a fine finish on prepared stock.^[20] The sole is generally about 2 inches wide, matching the blade width, with virtually no camber to promote uniform contact and avoid uneven planing in fine finishing tasks.^[18] Ergonomic considerations in smoothing plane design prioritize control and reduced fatigue for detailed work. The overall length ranges from 8 to 10 inches, balancing maneuverability on smaller surfaces with sufficient momentum for effective cuts.^[1] A horned tote, or rear handle, provides a secure grip, often shaped from hardwood like cherry or rosewood for comfort during push strokes.^[18] The plane's weight, approximately 2 to 3 pounds for standard models, aids in maintaining steady pressure without excessive strain on the user.^[21] The mouth opening, where the blade protrudes from the sole, is a critical feature optimized for smoothing to reduce tearout, particularly on figured or interlocked woods. It is set narrowly, between 1/64 and 1/16 inch, to support thin shavings and limit the space for wood fibers to lift ahead of the cut, enhancing surface quality.^[20]^[22]

Blade, cap iron, and adjustments

The blade, also known as the iron, in a smoothing plane is typically made of high-carbon steel for durability and edge retention, though some modern versions use A2 tool steel hardened to Rockwell 60-62.^[23]^[24] It measures approximately 2 inches wide and 0.125 inches thick to provide stability during fine cuts.^[23] The blade is ground flat on the back and beveled at a primary angle of 25 degrees, often honed to 25-30 degrees for optimal sharpness while minimizing projection through the plane's mouth.^[23]^[25] The cap iron, a thin steel plate about 1/8 inch thick, clamps directly to the back of the blade to support it and regulate shaving formation.^[23] It is positioned approximately 1/16 inch behind the blade's cutting edge for general smoothing work, though closer settings like 1/32 inch are used for hardwoods to enhance performance.^[23]^[26] The primary function of the cap iron is to curl and break the wood shavings as they form, which helps prevent tearout on figured or reversing grain by deflecting fibers before they can lift.^[22] This mechanism ensures smoother surfaces without requiring excessive blade pressure. Adjustment mechanisms allow precise control over the blade's position and angle relative to the plane body. The lateral lever, located on the frog, shifts the blade side-to-side for alignment, ensuring the cut is centered and even across the sole.^[20] The depth wheel, a knurled knob in front of the frog, controls the blade's protrusion downward, enabling fine adjustments in increments as small as 0.001 inches for shaving thicknesses of 0.001 to 0.003 inches typical in smoothing.^[26] The frog itself, which seats the blade, can be tilted via rear adjustment screws to set the bedding angle, most commonly at 45 degrees for standard common pitch.^[23]^[20] Variations include York pitch at 50 degrees, which presents a steeper cutting angle better suited for harder woods and interlocked grain to reduce tearout further.^[27]

Types and variants

Standard bench smoothing planes

The archetypal standard bench smoothing plane is the #4 model, measuring approximately 9 inches in length with a 2-inch wide blade, as produced by longstanding manufacturers including Stanley, Record, and Clifton.^[28]^[29]^[30] This size balances maneuverability and stability, making it ideal for final surface refinement on workpieces of moderate scale, and it forms the core reference for conventional bench plane design.^[1] Sizing conventions within standard bench smoothing planes follow the Bailey numbering system, with the #3 model at about 8 inches long offering finer control for detailed work on smaller or curved surfaces, while the #5 extends to 14 inches and serves as a transitional option bridging smoothing and heavier jack plane functions.^[28]^[25] These variations allow woodworkers to select based on project demands, with the #4 remaining the most versatile and commonly used.^[31] Common features across these models include adjustable frogs for precise control of the blade mouth opening, robust cast iron bodies that provide weight and rigidity, and compatibility with aftermarket replacement irons such as those made from A2 tool steel, which enhance edge retention for prolonged use without frequent sharpening.^[30]^[32]^[33] Standard bench smoothing planes are widely available in both vintage and new production forms, with budget models starting around $50 and premium versions reaching up to $300, reflecting differences in material quality and manufacturing precision.^[34]^[35] Vintage examples from brands like Stanley often require tuning but offer value for entry-level users, while new productions from Clifton emphasize modern tolerances for immediate performance.^[36]

Specialty and transitional types

Specialty smoothing planes adapt the standard bench plane design, such as the #4, to address specific challenges like tearout in difficult woods or access to tight areas.^[37] Low-angle smoothing planes feature a bevel-up blade configuration with a shallow bed angle, typically 12 degrees, allowing the effective cutting angle to be adjusted by varying the bevel on the blade.^[37] This design excels in reducing tearout on end-grain and interlocked woods, where traditional 45-degree bed angles often fail, by presenting a shearing action that minimizes fiber lifting.^[37] For example, the Veritas Bevel-Up Smoothing Plane employs this 12-degree bed to handle figure-heavy hardwoods effectively, producing smoother finishes with less effort compared to standard planes.^[37] Transitional planes combine a traditional wooden body, often made of beech for stability and smoothness, with a metal frog and adjustment mechanism inspired by Bailey-style designs.^[38] This hybrid construction blends the lightweight feel and low friction of wooden planes with the precise blade control of metal ones, facilitating easier adjustments without the wedging system of all-wood models.^[38] Manufacturers like the Ohio Tool Company produced such models in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, incorporating metal frogs into wooden bodies to appeal to woodworkers transitioning from older tools.^[39] Block planes serve as compact alternatives to full-sized smoothing planes, particularly for one-handed operation on edges and smaller surfaces.^[40] Their low-angle beds, around 12 to 20 degrees, enable effective shearing cuts on end grain and miters, where larger planes are cumbersome.^[40] The Lie-Nielsen No. 60-1/2, for instance, is a low-angle block plane optimized for trimming edges and smoothing in confined spaces, offering portability without sacrificing precision.^[40] Modern innovations in smoothing plane variants include the bullnose plane, which features a compact mouth and removable toe for accessing corners and cleaning up joints.^[41] The Veritas Bullnose Plane, measuring 4-3/4 inches long, allows conversion to a chisel plane by removing the toe, enabling precise work in tight radii and machine-cut dovetails with minimal tearout.^[42] Similarly, the apron plane provides a lightweight option at just 14 ounces, functioning as a small low-angle block plane suited for detailed smoothing tasks.^[43] This design, exemplified by the Veritas Apron Plane, supports use on shooting boards due to its reduced weight and bevel-up configuration, enhancing control for end-grain reference edges.^[43]

Usage and techniques

Setup and preparation

Proper setup and preparation of a smoothing plane are essential to achieve a fine finish on wood surfaces, ensuring the tool performs optimally before any planing begins. Initial tuning begins with flattening the sole, which is typically accomplished by rubbing the plane's base on a flat reference surface such as glass or granite covered with progressively finer grits of sandpaper, starting from 80-grit and advancing to 320-grit or higher to remove high spots and achieve a smooth, even contact across the toe, heel, and mouth areas.^[26]^[44] Ensuring the sole's squareness to the plane's sides follows, using an engineer's try-square to check alignment; any discrepancies are corrected by lapping the sides on the same abrasive surface until the sole is perpendicular, preventing tracks or uneven planing.^[45]^[44] Once the sole is tuned, blade installation involves seating the plane iron and cap iron (also known as the chipbreaker) firmly against the frog's bedding surface, which should first be lapped flat with a sharpening stone for secure contact. The cap iron is positioned with its leading edge about 1/32 inch behind the blade's cutting edge to break shavings effectively, and the assembly is secured by the lever cap with just enough tension—typically tightened finger-tight—to hold the components without slippage while allowing smooth adjustment of the blade depth.^[26]^[44] Mouth adjustment is critical for fine work, particularly on figured woods prone to tearout; the frog is positioned forward to create a narrow opening of approximately 1/32 inch, which restricts the shaving thickness and promotes thin, curly shavings for a smoother surface finish.^[26]^[44]^[45] Before planing, assess the wood's grain direction by examining the board's end grain to identify the "uphill" orientation, ensuring the plane travels with the grain to minimize tearout; this preparation is especially important for hardwoods like oak, which resist cutting more than softwoods such as pine and may require a sharper blade setup.^[46]

Planing methods and best practices

The basic stroke for using a smoothing plane involves pushing the tool across the wood surface in a controlled manner, typically starting with diagonal passes to level high spots before transitioning to straight strokes aligned with the grain for a final finish. To achieve clean cuts, position the workpiece so the plane travels "uphill" relative to the grain direction, avoiding tearout by planing from low to high points. Apply even, firm downward pressure throughout the stroke, leveraging the plane's inherent weight (often 3-5 pounds for standard models) and the woodworker's body weight for steady momentum, beginning with more force on the front knob and shifting to the rear handle (tote) as the plane advances to prevent rounding the edges.^[47]^[48]^[49] Ideal shavings from a properly tuned smoothing plane are thin, wispy curls approximately 0.001 inches thick, which indicate effective setup and produce a smooth surface ready for finishing; these fine shavings result from a sharp blade and tight mouth opening (around 1/32 inch). Thicker or wider shavings, by contrast, signal issues such as improper blade projection, dullness, or challenging grain, often leading to tearout where fibers lift instead of shearing cleanly—diagnose this by inspecting the shaving width and adjusting the cut depth accordingly for subsequent passes.^[47]^[48]^[50] Advanced practices enhance precision and surface quality, such as skewing the blade by angling the plane 10-20 degrees to the grain, which lowers the effective cutting angle from the standard 45 degrees, reduces resistance, and minimizes tearout on figured woods while allowing for lighter pressure. For straight edges, employ a shooting board to guide the plane perpendicularly, ensuring the sole rides flat and the blade cuts squarely without wandering. Sequential passes are recommended, starting coarser (thicker shavings to remove mill marks) and progressing to finer cuts with the grain for a polished result, overlapping strokes consistently across the surface to avoid ridges.^[47]^[48]^[50] Safety is paramount when planing; always secure the workpiece firmly in a vise or with clamps and bench dogs to prevent movement, which could cause slips or uneven cuts. Wear eye protection to guard against flying shavings, and maintain a stable stance with feet apart for balance during strokes. Avoid using dull blades, as they increase the risk of kickback or blade chatter, potentially leading to loss of control or injury.^[47]^[48]^[49]

Maintenance

Sharpening and tuning

Sharpening the blade of a smoothing plane begins with establishing a primary bevel at 25 degrees, which provides an effective cutting angle for fine work on end grain and figured woods.^[51] This is achieved using waterstones starting at 1000 grit to remove material and refine the bevel, progressing to 4000 or 8000 grit for polishing to create a keen edge.^[52] To enhance durability without excessive sharpening time, a micro-bevel is added at 30 degrees on the finest stone, reducing wear on the primary bevel during use.^[51] Honing should occur every 20-30 minutes of continuous use, depending on the wood hardness and grain direction, to maintain performance.^[53] Sharpness is verified using the thumbnail test: a razor-sharp edge glides smoothly across the thumbnail without skips or bumps, indicating no dull spots.^[54] Tuning the frog ensures square bedding of the blade by lapping its mating surface flat against the plane body, promoting stable blade seating and preventing chatter.^[45] The sole is flattened by rubbing it on 80-grit sandpaper adhered to a flat glass plate, focusing on the mouth area to achieve even contact and minimize planing tracks.^[55] The cap iron, or chip breaker, requires lapping its back face flat over the contact area with the blade to ensure tight adhesion, which deflects shavings effectively and supports the cutting edge.^[56] This preparation, typically done with fine abrasive sheets, allows the assembly to seat without gaps when clamped.^[45]

Cleaning and storage

Routine cleaning of a smoothing plane involves wiping the sole and body with a light oil, such as camellia oil, immediately after use to remove moisture and prevent rust formation on cast iron components. For wooden bodies or components, use a gentle cleaner like Murphy's Oil Soap applied with a soft cloth to remove dirt and shavings without introducing excess moisture, which can cause swelling or cracking.^[57] For deeper cleaning, disassemble the plane periodically and use a brass or nylon-bristle brush to scrub away accumulated shavings, dust, and minor corrosion from metallic parts.^[58] Rust prevention for metallic elements, particularly the cast iron body, entails applying a thin coat of non-drying oil like jojoba or camellia oil after cleaning, or using a silicone-free paste wax such as Boeshield T-9 to create a moisture-repellent barrier.^[59]^[60] For wooden parts, apply boiled linseed oil or a beeswax mixture periodically (e.g., every few months) to condition the wood, maintain flexibility, and prevent drying out or checking.^[57] In humid environments, vapor corrosion inhibitors or moisture-resistant storage solutions further protect against oxidation, while avoiding prolonged exposure to damp conditions is essential.^[61] Proper storage practices include hanging the plane on a pegboard using drilled holes or hooks to avoid scratching the sole and maintain accessibility, or placing it in a dedicated wooden box lined with cloth to cushion against impacts.^[62]^[63] The blade should be retracted fully and protected with a guard, such as a blade roll or plane sack made of moisture-resistant fabric, to prevent dulling or accidental injury.^[64]^[65] A quarterly inspection routine helps ensure longevity, involving checks for cracks in wooden bodies—common in transitional smoothing planes—and tightening any loose screws to maintain structural integrity.^[66]^[60]

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Malleable iron yoke - widen the engaging discs by carefully hammering them. Alternatively - fill excess groove space with a circlip.
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Tips & Techniques For Using A Smoothing Plane - Woodsmith
from removing machine marks and trimming parts to size, to edge jointing and ...
[48]
Mastering the Hand Plane
### Summary of Smoothing Plane Usage Best Practices
[49]
Tips for Using a Wood Plane - Woodworkers Institute
a planer on a piece of wood with some shavings. Start a plane stroke with more pressure on the front knob. Towards the end, shift pressure to the rear handle ...
[50]
The Engineering of Thin Plane Shavings - Starting with the Iron
Apr 26, 2023 · A discussion of the importance of technique of using the plane. Don't angle of attack (skew), speed and downward pressure all contribute to a better cut as ...
[51]
How to Sharpen, Hone, and Prepare Woodworking Blades for Razor ...
Jan 16, 2024 · Using a 30° secondary bevel is ideal for quick sharpening. ... A secondary bevel is shaped at a steeper angle to the 25º primary bevel, in this ...
[52]
Sharpening Joinery Planes: Tips for Perfect Edges
Waterstones are my go-to sharpening media, but I also use diamond stones to flatten stones and to remove nicks or change the bevel angle.Missing: smoothing | Show results with:smoothing
[53]
6. Setting Up and Tuning a Hand Plane - Original Luban Tools
A “shoosh” not a scrape. Maintenance Cadence (Once Set Up). Task, Frequency, Tool. Hone blade, Every 20–30 minutes of use (depending on wood type), Strop or ...
[54]
Newsletter Article: How to Test for Sharp and Dull
### Thumbnail Test for Plane Blade Sharpness and Honing Frequency
[55]
Flattening A Plane Sole, Part 2 - Popular Woodworking
Jun 10, 2022 · I role out a 60, or 80-grit PSA sandpaper strip and affix it to a flat surface to be used as the lapping abrasive.Missing: 0.001 inches
[56]
Setting your plane after sharpening - Paul Sellers' Blog
Jul 20, 2015 · You have something wrong because when the cap iron is set 1-2mm from the cutting edge, loading it would make it impossible to protrude 1/8″. Is ...
[57]
Camellia Oil Outscores Other Rust Preventers - FineWoodworking
**Summary of Camellia Oil for Rust Prevention on Tools (e.g., Hand Planes):**
[58]
Troubleshooting and Techniques for Veritas Custom Bench Planes - Lee Valley Tools
### Maintenance, Cleaning, Lubrication, Rust Prevention, and Storage for Veritas Custom Bench Planes
[59]
Restoring an Old Hand Plane - Lee Valley Tools
### Methods for Cleaning and Rust Removal on Old Hand Planes (Smoothing Planes)
[60]
No. 101 Violin Maker's Plane Lie-Nielsen Toolworks
The blade should be kept lightly oiled to prevent rust, especially when the tool is not in use. We recommend Jojoba Oil, a plant based oil product that is ...Missing: storage | Show results with:storage<|separator|>
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https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/post-purchase/router-planes/troubleshooting-and-techniques
[62]
How do you store your handplanes? | Page 2 - Woodworking Talk
Apr 5, 2012 · I drill hang holes and put them up on hooks on a pegboard rack. The trick is sizing the hole to the plane. A #1 Stanley gets a 1/8" hole. A #4 ...
[63]
Storing hand planes : r/handtools - Reddit
May 26, 2024 · I've tried plane socks and while not dissatisfied I chose to use a wooden box. I was taught to always back off the blade and ease off the ...Wooden hand plane storage : r/handtoolsHow to store hand planes? : r/handtoolsMore results from www.reddit.comMissing: damage | Show results with:damage
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https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/maintenance-and-accessories/64782-plane-sacks
[65]
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/post-purchase/combination-plane/maintaining-your-veritas-combination-plane
[66]
Restoring a Vintage Hand Plane - Instructables
It's a good idea to inspect the tool before you buy it...check for any cracks and gouges; loose, missing, replaced or ill fitting pieces, and deep pockets of ...