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Circular knitting

Circular knitting is a versatile technique used to create seamless, tubular fabric by forming stitches in continuous rounds or spirals, rather than flat rows, resulting in a structure worked entirely from one side without visible seams.^[1] This method produces a weft-knitted fabric that is highly efficient for manufacturing items requiring cylindrical shapes, such as hosiery, garments, and accessories.^[2] Early precursor techniques to knitting, such as nålbindning, trace back to ancient civilizations in Egypt and Peru around 500 CE, while true knitting and circular knitting emerged in the Middle Ages around the 11th-14th centuries with the use of multiple double-pointed needles to form seamless tubes, as evidenced in European artworks like the "Knitting Madonnas."^[3] ^[4] By the 19th century, advancements in needle materials—from wood and bone to steel—facilitated wider adoption, while the invention of circular needles in the early 20th century, patented in the U.S. in 1918, revolutionized the process by allowing longer, continuous cords for larger projects.^[3] In the industrial realm, circular knitting machines developed in the 19th century enabled high-speed production of tubular fabrics, with significant innovations in the 1990s leading to seamless garment technology, pioneered by companies like Santoni for underwear and sportswear. Recent developments as of 2025 include IoT-enabled machines for real-time monitoring and AI integration for improved productivity and sustainability.^[1]^[5] Circular knitting can be performed by hand using tools such as double-pointed needles, fixed circular needles (with rigid cable lengths from 9 to 60 inches), or interchangeable sets, as well as modern methods like the Magic Loop technique for small-diameter items.^[3] On an industrial scale, specialized machines feature a circular array of needles, creels, and yarn guides to knit continuously, incorporating sensors to detect yarn breaks and halt operations for quality control.^[2] Common stitch structures include single-jersey for basic T-shirts, ribbed for elastic garments like swimsuits, tuck stitches for textured outerwear, and double knits for denser fabrics, allowing customization for aesthetic or functional purposes.^[1] This technique is widely applied in both handcraft and mass production, yielding products like socks, mittens, pantyhose, seamless underwear, and technical textiles for protective clothing.^[2] Its advantages include high production speeds, cost-effectiveness for bulk items, and reduced finishing needs, though challenges like visible "jogs" in color changes have been addressed through specialized techniques developed by knitting experts.^[1] Today, circular knitting supports sustainable practices by minimizing waste from seams and enabling versatile fabric engineering for apparel and beyond.^[1]

Fundamentals

Definition

Circular knitting is a technique for creating fabric by interlocking loops of yarn in a continuous circular manner, resulting in a seamless tube rather than a flat piece worked in rows. This method allows for the production of tubular structures without the need for side seams, making it ideal for items like socks, hats, and sweater bodies.^[6]^[1] The basic process begins with casting on a specified number of stitches onto appropriate needles, similar to flat knitting. Once cast on, the first and last stitches are joined to form a circle, ensuring the working yarn is positioned correctly to avoid twisting. Knitting then proceeds in continuous rounds, where each subsequent round of stitches builds spirally upon the previous one, advancing the fabric uniformly around the circumference.^[6] Key to this approach is its seamless construction, which eliminates the joins typical in flat-knitted pieces and supports the creation of cylindrical or conical shapes suitable for garments and accessories that require flexibility and even tension. The resulting fabric maintains a consistent loop structure throughout, enhancing its stretch and drape.^[1]

Comparison to Flat Knitting

Flat knitting involves working back and forth in rows using straight needles, creating rectangular panels that must later be seamed together to form a garment or item.^[7] In this method, the knitter alternates between the right side (typically knit stitches) and the wrong side (typically purl stitches) of the fabric, turning the work at the end of each row to begin the return row.^[8] This process results in a two-sided fabric where both the public and private faces are accessible during knitting, facilitating adjustments for shaping or intricate colorwork patterns that require viewing both sides.^[9] In contrast, circular knitting produces seamless tubes by working continuously in rounds, eliminating the need to turn the work or purl return rows.^[7] The knitter always faces the right side of the fabric, progressing in a spiral or circular manner that builds the structure without interruptions for turning.^[8] This key difference means circular knitting inherently avoids the seam edges that flat knitting requires, but it limits access to the wrong side during the process, making it less straightforward for certain shaping techniques or two-sided designs.^[9] Structurally, circular knitting yields seamless cylindrical or tubular forms ideal for items constructed in the round, such as sleeves or bodies, while flat knitting generates flat panels suited for assembly into broader, non-tubular shapes like scarves or blankets.^[7] The row-by-row progression in flat knitting allows for precise control over flat expanses, whereas the round-by-round advancement in circular knitting ensures continuity but may require stitch markers to track pattern repeats and prevent twisting at the join.^[8] These distinctions influence project selection, with flat methods favoring modular construction and circular approaches prioritizing integrated, seam-free results.^[9]

History

Early Origins

The earliest evidence of circular knitting appears in North Africa during the period of Islamic rule around 1100–1300 AD, where double-needle techniques were employed to create tubular items such as socks and gloves.^[10] A notable example is a blue and white cotton sock from Egypt, knitted in the round using double-needle techniques to form a seamless structure with abstract geometric patterns.^[11] These early works, often made from fine cotton or wool in colors like indigo and madder red, demonstrate advanced stranded colorwork and shaping methods, such as toe-up construction for socks.^[12] By the 15th century, circular knitting had spread to Europe, with the earliest known visual depictions appearing in religious art, illustrating the technique's integration into daily craftsmanship. Paintings such as those on the Buxtehude Altarpiece (ca. 1400) show figures using multiple double-pointed needles to work tubular garments in the round, likely for items like hose and caps.^[13] These images, including "Knitting Madonna" portrayals from the late 14th and early 15th centuries, confirm the use of four or more needles held in a triangular or square formation to produce seamless, cylindrical forms without visible seams.^[14] In pre-industrial Europe, circular knitting relied heavily on hand methods using four or five double-pointed needles for in-the-round work, particularly for practical garments like mittens that required durability and flexibility.^[10] This technique developed around 1400, driven by functional needs for seamless hosiery and protective wear, spreading through trade routes from Islamic influences in Spain and Italy to northern regions.^[13] Such methods allowed knitters to create fitted, tube-shaped items efficiently by hand, laying the foundation for later mechanical innovations.

Modern Developments

The development of circular knitting machines began with early mechanical precursors in the late 16th century, when English clergyman William Lee invented the stocking frame in 1589, a flat-bed device that automated hand-knitting motions for producing stockings. Although Lee's machine produced flat fabric, it laid foundational principles for mechanized knitting that influenced later circular designs.^[15] The first circular knitting machine was patented in 1816 by Marc Isambard Brunel in Britain, enabling the production of seamless tubular fabrics like hosiery.^[16] Circular adaptations continued to emerge in the 19th century amid the Industrial Revolution, with the first U.S. patents for circular knitting machines granted in 1840, enabling the production of seamless tubular fabrics like hosiery more efficiently than flat frames. These early circular machines used rotating cylinders with needles to form loops in a continuous circle, marking a shift from linear to radial production. In 1858, William Cooper and William Johnson patented a spring needle machine, which improved ribbing quality for finer underwear fabrics by incorporating flexible spring-loaded needles that allowed tighter, more elastic stitches without distortion.^[15] The 20th century brought innovations in hand tools that complemented machine advancements. The first U.S. patent for a circular knitting needle, issued to Frank L. Sessions in 1918, introduced a flexible design with pointed ends connected by a pliable body, facilitating in-the-round hand knitting of tubular items like socks and hats with reduced seam work. Flexible prototypes using baleen (whalebone) had appeared in Europe by the late 19th century, providing bendable alternatives to rigid straight needles for small-diameter projects.^[17]^[18] Post-1900 hand techniques evolved alongside industrial progress, with the magic loop method gaining popularity in the late 20th and early 21st centuries; this approach, formalized by Sarah Hauschka around 2002, uses a long circular needle to knit small circumferences in one piece by looping the cable to divide stitches. In industrial contexts, early 21st-century advancements focused on computer-controlled circular weft knitting machines, which integrated electronic patterning systems for high-speed production of complex jacquard designs and seamless garments, boosting efficiency in apparel manufacturing.^[19]^[20]

Hand Knitting Techniques

Double-Pointed Needles

Double-pointed needles (DPNs) are short, straight knitting needles with points at both ends, typically used in sets of four or five to facilitate circular knitting by distributing stitches across multiple needles to form a seamless tube. These needles, often 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) in length for small projects, allow stitches to be held in sections around the circumference, enabling continuous knitting in the round without turning the work. Materials historically included wood, bone, ivory, and later steel or bamboo, with modern versions favoring lightweight metals or synthetics for durability and ease of handling.^[3]^[21] The process begins with casting on an even number of stitches onto one needle, then dividing them equally among the remaining needles—usually three or four for a set of four or five total—to ensure balanced tension. The first and last stitches are joined carefully to form a circle, avoiding a twist, after which the knitter works the stitches from the first needle onto an empty needle or directly, rotating the set clockwise as each section is completed to spiral the stitches continuously on the right side of the fabric. This method, which produces seamless tubes, requires juggling the needles and maintaining consistent yarn tension to prevent dropped stitches.^[10]^[3] DPNs are particularly suited for small-diameter items such as socks, hats, mittens, and sleeves, where the circumference is too narrow for longer tools. As a historical standard, this technique dates back to medieval times, with evidence from 14th-century European paintings depicting "Knitting Madonnas" using multiple pointed needles and archaeological finds like hooked needle sets from a 1390 Turkish tomb, evolving into smooth-pointed forms by the 16th century for items like North African socks (1100–1300). In reconstructions of 17th-century silk stockings, sets of four thin iron DPNs achieved fine gauges of 120 courses by 80 loops per 10 cm, underscoring their precision for intricate work.^[10]^[3]^[21] To execute successfully, knitters must focus on even tension, especially at needle junctions, where gaps known as ladders can occur; pulling the working yarn tightly around the second stitch of each new needle helps cinch these areas and avoid loose columns. Additional tips include using stitch markers sparingly to track rounds without disrupting the flow and selecting nonslip needle materials like wood for delicate yarns to minimize stitch slippage during rotation. For larger projects, alternatives like circular needles may be preferred to reduce needle management.^[22]^[3]^[23]

Circular Needles and Magic Loop

Circular needles consist of two short needle tips connected by a flexible cable, allowing knitters to work stitches in a continuous loop without seams.^[24] This design, first patented in the United States in 1918, enables the creation of tubular garments such as sweaters, cowls, and hats by distributing stitches evenly across the cable and knitting continuously in the round.^[3] To begin, stitches are cast on to one needle tip, then slid along the cable to join the round; care must be taken to avoid twisting the stitches by ensuring the working yarn is at the back before knitting the first stitch with the right needle tip.^[24] The magic loop technique adapts circular needles for smaller circumferences, using a single long needle—typically 32 to 47 inches—to knit projects like socks or mittens without multiple tools.^[25] Invented by Sarah Hauschka and Bev Galeskas of FiberTrends in the early 2000s and popularized around 2002, it divides the stitches into two sections on the cable, forming a "loop" that is pulled to reposition the work after knitting each half.^[26]^[3] In practice, after casting on and joining without twists, the knitter pushes stitches to the cable's center, folds the needle to split the stitches evenly between the tips, and pulls the cable to create slack for the first section.^[25] The front stitches are knitted first, followed by rotating the work to access the back section by pulling the cable again; this process repeats per round, advancing the loop as needed to maintain even tension.^[25] This method offers versatility for both flat and in-the-round knitting on one tool, reducing the need to juggle multiple needles as required with double-pointed alternatives, while improving portability and preventing lost components.^[27]

Machine Knitting

Spool Knitting

Spool knitting, also known as French knitting, corking, or tomboy knitting, is a rudimentary form of circular knitting that generates narrow tubular cords through a handheld, hand-powered device.^[28] The method interlocks yarn loops around pegs to produce a seamless i-cord, mimicking the stockinette stitch in a continuous tube.^[29] The essential tool is a small wooden or plastic spool, typically 2 to 3 inches long and about 1 inch in diameter, fitted with four pegs or nails hammered into one end to serve as stitch holders.^[28] Yarn is wound around each peg sequentially, starting from the bottom and layering a new loop over the existing one; a pointed tool, such as a knitting needle or crochet hook, then lifts the bottom loop over the top, securing the stitch while the cord pulls through the spool's hollow center.^[29] In some versions, the spool can be rotated manually or turned via a simple crank for continuous operation, facilitating longer cords without repositioning the yarn.^[28] This technique has origins dating back over 400 years in Europe, with the earliest documented references appearing in 16th-century guild records from Strasbourg, including a 1535 mention of a knitting frame and 1618 regulations governing its use.^[28] By the 19th century, it had become a widespread toy method for children, valued for keeping young hands occupied in a repetitive, low-skill activity that yields tangible results.^[28] The output consists of flexible, narrow tubes—often 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter—suitable for decorative trims, drawstrings, and clothing ties, as well as jewelry pieces or coiled into flat mats and coasters.^[28] Its simplicity makes spool knitting an ideal introductory craft for beginners, requiring minimal materials and no prior knitting experience.^[28] This basic, manual approach represents an early precursor to more sophisticated industrial circular knitting machines.^[28]

Industrial Machines

Industrial circular knitting machines are powered devices designed for high-volume production of seamless tubular fabrics, utilizing a rotating cylinder of needles to form stitches in a weft-knitting process.^[30] These machines evolved from 19th-century innovations, including U.S. patents granted in 1840 for early circular designs and the 1847 invention of the latch needle, which improved reliability and speed.^[15] The primary types include single jersey machines, which feature a single set of needles on a vertical cylinder to produce lightweight, one-sided fabrics; double jersey machines, employing both a cylinder and a horizontal dial with two needle sets for denser, reversible structures; and interlock machines, a variant of double jersey where needles on the cylinder and dial alternate to create stable, smooth-faced fabrics.^[30]^[31] Single jersey setups typically incorporate sinkers to hold loops, while double jersey and interlock configurations rely on interlocking needle actions without sinkers.^[31] Needles in these machines are predominantly latch types, which use a self-closing hook for reliable high-speed operation; compound needles, combining a hook and slider for precise loop control in advanced models; and, rarely, bearded needles with a spring-loaded hook closed by a presser, though these are largely obsolete in modern circular setups.^[32]^[30] In operation, yarn is supplied through multiple carriers to the rotating needle cylinder, where cams guide the needles through knit, tuck, or miss actions to form stitches, yielding seamless tubes at speeds typically ranging from 20 to 45 revolutions per minute depending on machine diameter and yarn type.^[30]^[33] Key components include yarn carriers for precise feeding, cam systems that dictate stitch formation by raising, lowering, or holding needles, and fabric take-up mechanisms that wind the produced tube onto rolls or beams for further processing.^[31]^[30] Contemporary industrial machines incorporate computerized controls for electronic needle selection, enabling complex patterns like jacquard designs without manual intervention, and support diameters from as small as 3 inches for sock production to over 60 inches for sweater blanks.^[30]^[31] These features enhance versatility, allowing adaptation to various gauges and yarn counts for efficient mass manufacturing.^[30]

Advantages and Challenges

Benefits

Circular knitting offers seamless construction, which eliminates the need for sewing pieces together and avoids weak seams that can compromise durability, making it particularly suitable for creating stretchy, form-fitting items like socks and sweaters.^[34] This approach results in a more continuous production process with little to no assembly, reducing waste and enhancing the overall fit and comfort of the final garment.^[34] In hand knitting, techniques such as the magic loop further enable this seamlessness for smaller circumferences.^[35] One key efficiency advantage is the ability to work in continuous rounds, which avoids the need to turn the work or purl return rows as in flat knitting, allowing knitters to focus solely on knit stitches and thereby speeding up production.^[35] This streamlined method minimizes interruptions and reduces overall assembly time. As of 2025, advancements in computerized circular knitting machines have introduced greater automation, higher speeds, and enhanced stitch flexibility, further improving productivity in industrial applications.^[36] Circular knitting also provides better weight distribution, with the fabric weight evenly spread along the needles or cable, which lessens strain on the hands, wrists, and elbows compared to straight needles where weight accumulates at the ends.^[35] This ergonomic benefit is especially valuable for larger projects, helping to reduce hand fatigue during extended sessions.^[35] The technique's versatility allows for the production of tubular fabrics that can be easily shaped into cones or other forms, offering flexibility in design without additional piecing.^[34] It is particularly advantageous for colorwork, as the seamless rounds prevent disruptive seams that could interrupt patterns and ensure a smooth, continuous motif across the fabric.^[3]

Limitations

Circular knitting presents several challenges related to circumference management, particularly for very small diameters, where standard circular needles or machines often prove inadequate without specialized adaptations. In hand knitting, achieving even tension on small circumferences, such as those required for socks or mittens, can lead to laddering or uneven stitches at needle transitions, as the limited number of stitches stretches across the needle length.^[37] Industrial circular knitting machines similarly face limitations in flexibility, as fixed cylinder diameters restrict production to specific fabric widths, making small-diameter items less efficient and more costly due to reduced output rates.^[38] Additionally, when joining stitches to begin working in the round, there is a significant risk of twisting the cast-on edge, which can distort the entire fabric if not detected early, requiring careful alignment and checking after the first round.^[39] Shaping in circular knitting introduces further constraints, as increases and decreases must be executed solely on the right side of the work, complicating the creation of symmetrical contours compared to flat knitting where both sides are accessible. This one-sided approach can result in asymmetrical leaning or visible seams in shaped areas like armholes or necklines. In colorwork, the continuous spiral nature of rounds causes a "jog" at color changes, where the new color appears offset by one stitch, disrupting pattern alignment and creating a stepped effect particularly evident in stripes or motifs.^[40]^[41] Techniques like the magic loop method can mitigate some small-circumference issues but do not fully resolve these shaping hurdles.^[42] Tool requirements for circular knitting demand specific equipment, such as fixed-length circular needles or interchangeable sets, which may lack the versatility of straight needles for projects mimicking flat construction, like scarves or panels. Shorter circular needles, essential for small projects, can cause hand cramping or discomfort during extended use due to their compact design. In machine contexts, the need for precise needle selection systems limits pattern complexity, as the number of selectable elements is constrained by machine diameter.^[43]^[38] Post-processing of tubular fabrics produced by circular methods often necessitates additional steps for non-cylindrical shapes, including cutting the seamless tube open and seaming edges to form flat panels or garments, which introduces potential for distortion or added labor. Many commercial knit fabrics are initially knitted in the round and then slit and seamed during finishing to achieve desired widths, increasing production time and risk of uneven hems.^[44]^[38]

Applications

Handcrafted Items

Circular knitting is widely employed in handcrafted projects to produce seamless, tubular garments and accessories that offer comfort and a professional finish. Common items include socks, hats, mittens, cowls, and the bodies of sweaters, which are typically worked using double-pointed needles (DPNs) for smaller circumferences or circular needles for larger ones.^[45]^[46] These projects benefit from specific technique integrations, such as the magic loop method on a single circular needle to shape sock heels without seams, enabling a smooth, fitted contour. The inherent seamless construction of circular knitting is particularly advantageous for wearables that require elasticity and conform to the body, like legwear and headwear, resulting in items that stretch comfortably without visible joins.^[47]^[48] Materials selection emphasizes yarns that enhance the stretch and durability of these tubes; fingering-weight yarns are standard for socks to provide fine detail and flexibility, while worsted-weight yarns suit hats, mittens, and cowls for quicker knitting and bulkier warmth. Patterns in circular knitting often incorporate a subtle spiral effect due to the continuous rounds, contributing to the seamless aesthetic without additional seaming.^[49]^[50] Creatively, circular knitting facilitates colorwork techniques like intarsia for pictorial motifs or Fair Isle stranding for geometric patterns within the tubular form, allowing artisans to craft intricate designs on items such as stranded hats or multicolored cowls. This versatility has made circular knitting a staple in modern crafting communities, where enthusiasts share patterns for personalized accessories that blend functionality with artistic expression.^[51]^[52]

Industrial Products

Circular knitting machines produce a wide array of apparel items, leveraging single jersey structures for lightweight, breathable fabrics like T-shirts made from cotton or polyester blends, which offer stretch and comfort for everyday wear.^[53] Double jersey configurations enable thicker, more stable interlock knits suitable for sportswear such as leggings and compression tops, incorporating spandex for moisture-wicking and four-way stretch properties that enhance performance in athletic applications.^[53] Underwear and hosiery, including seamless socks and intimate apparel from modal or microfiber yarns, benefit from the tubular seamless construction that minimizes seams for improved hygiene and fit.^[53]^[54] In technical applications, circular knitting supports medical textiles such as compression garments and bandages, utilizing elastic, seamless structures to promote circulation and aid recovery in conditions like lymphedema.^[53]^[55] These machines also fabricate orthopedic supports and wound dressings with antimicrobial properties for healthcare settings.^[56] Automotive textiles, including seat covers and interior trims, employ durable, shape-adaptive fabrics from polyester or aramid yarns to withstand wear and conform to complex contours.^[56] Industrial filters and protective clothing draw on the technology's ability to create breathable, reinforced meshes for filtration and safety gear.^[56] Home goods produced via circular knitting include bed linens and mattress covers, where fine-textured, elastic fabrics provide durability and comfort in household use.^[57] Curtains and upholstery benefit from the seamless, versatile knits that allow for aesthetic patterns and easy integration into interiors.^[56] Seamless tubes incorporating Lycra enable performance-oriented fabrics for items like stretchable linens, emphasizing flexibility and recovery.^[58] The scale of production underscores circular knitting's role in global markets, with machines enabling high-volume output of tubular fabrics that are often cut and sewn post-knitting to create diverse garments and textiles efficiently.^[59] As of 2025, the global knitting machine market was estimated at US$5.56 billion, with circular types holding about 45% share and Asia Pacific accounting for 41% of production, supporting apparel and technical sectors.^[60]^[61] This versatility facilitates rapid adaptation to consumer demands in fast-paced industries.

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10 Tips for Knitting Gorgeous Stranded Colorwork - Interweave
Apr 23, 2025 · Stranded colorwork (also called Fair Isle) is all about carrying two (or more) colors of yarn across a row to create beautiful patterns.
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Feature: Cool stuff - Knitty.com
This is definitely a different style of Fair Isle. Martin Storeyâ€™s excellent and whimsical design sense makes these patterns, cowls, scarves, a vest, hats, ...
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How Circular Knitting Machines Are Revolutionizing Technical Textile Production | Yuanda
### Summary of Products from Circular Knitting Machines
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Different Types of Knitting Machines: That You Can Use in Your ...
Feb 25, 2025 · The circular design facilitates the production of seamless tubes, making them ideal for manufacturing items like socks, t-shirts, and seamless ...
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[PDF] Circular knit compression - Sigvaris.com
Circular knit compression garments are used on a normal limb shape and can help reduce the pain and swelling associated with early to mild stages of lymphoedema ...Missing: textiles | Show results with:textiles
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Main products in which circular knitting machine knitted fabrics are ...
Jan 4, 2025 · Circular knitting machines are capable of producing technical textiles with specialized features, including moisture-wicking, flame resistance, ...
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Knitting | Groz-Beckert KG
Thanks to its wide range of possibilities, circular knitting technology is perfectly suited for the production of fashionable and functional textiles - from ...
[55]
An Introduction to Circular Knit Technical Textiles - Beverly Knits
Sep 20, 2024 · Circular knitted technical textiles are fabrics produced using circular knitting machines designed specifically for functional purposes.
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Knitting Machine Market Size, Trends & Forecast to 2032
Mar 10, 2025 · Circular knitting machines have carved out a significant niche in the textile machinery market. Their ability to produce seamless tubes of ...