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H&M


Hennes & Mauritz AB, trading as H&M and part of the H&M Group, is a Swedish multinational fast- retailer founded in 1947 by in as Hennes, initially focusing on women's clothing. In 1968, the company acquired the hunting and fishing equipment retailer Mauritz Widforss, adding men's apparel and adopting the H&M moniker, which has since expanded to encompass a broad range of affordable, trend-responsive for all demographics under multiple brands including , & Other Stories, and Weekday. Headquartered in , H&M Group operates over 4,000 physical stores across more than 79 markets and maintains in 60, emphasizing rapid production cycles to deliver low-cost apparel, accessories, and home goods. For fiscal year 2024, the group achieved net sales of 234.5 billion, reflecting modest growth amid competitive pressures in the global apparel sector. While pioneering accessible and reporting progress toward targets—such as 89% of materials being recycled or sustainably sourced in 2024—H&M has encountered persistent allegations of labor abuses in supplier factories, including poverty wages and rights violations in regions like and , prompting operational adjustments and investigations.

Founding and Historical Development

Origins in Sweden and Initial Growth

Hennes, the predecessor to H&M, was founded on October 4, 1947, by Swedish entrepreneur in , , as a women's retailer. , inspired by trends observed during a 1946 trip to , named the store "Hennes," Swedish for "hers," and stocked it exclusively with women's apparel sourced from independent manufacturers. The initial store emphasized affordable, trend-driven garments, departing from 's prevailing custom-tailoring norms, and quickly gained traction in a post-World War II market seeking accessible . By 1952, Hennes expanded to , marking its second store and signaling early domestic growth amid rising consumer demand for mass-market clothing. Throughout the and early , the chain methodically added outlets across , leveraging Persson's prior experience as a salesman and founder of the hunting gear firm Pennspecialisten to refine merchandising and supply strategies. This period solidified Hennes' position as a leading Swedish womenswear provider, with stores focusing on high-volume sales of seasonally refreshed inventory to capture fleeting styles. A pivotal shift occurred in 1968 when Persson acquired the Stockholm-based hunting and fishing retailer Mauritz Widforss, integrating its inventory and premises to introduce men's and lines. The company rebranded as Hennes & Mauritz (H&M), broadening its appeal to family-oriented shoppers and accelerating initial expansion by repurposing the acquired assets for broader apparel categories. This move addressed untapped market segments in , where H&M stores proliferated in urban centers, laying the groundwork for scaled operations while maintaining a commitment to low-cost, high-turnover .

Expansion into Europe and Beyond

H&M initiated its expansion beyond with the opening of its first store in in 1964. This move was followed by entry into in 1967, establishing a foothold in the region outside its home market. Further penetration into occurred in 1976 with the opening of the first store in the . During the 1980s, H&M extended operations to , where it opened its initial store in 1980, and the , laying groundwork for broader continental presence. By the late 1990s, the company had entered with a store in in 1998 and in 1999, contributing to sustained growth across Europe amid increasing store counts and market adaptations. The transition to non-European markets began in 2000, when H&M opened its flagship store on in on March 31, realizing founder Erling Persson's vision for U.S. entry and marking the brand's first major transatlantic expansion. This was followed by forays into the via a store in the in 2006. In 2007, H&M advanced into Asia with openings in and , , signaling accelerated global ambitions. Subsequent developments included entry into in 2008 and as the first southern hemisphere market, alongside ongoing additions in , , and . By August 2025, these efforts had resulted in physical stores across 79 markets and e-commerce in 61, reflecting a strategy emphasizing both owned operations and selective in diverse regions.

Key Milestones and Challenges (2000s-2025)

In 2000, H&M expanded into the by opening a flagship store on in , marking its entry into the Americas market. This was followed by rapid growth, with the company operating nearly 1,000 stores worldwide and employing 41,000 people by 2002. In 2004, H&M initiated its designer collaboration program with , launching limited-edition collections that made high-end design accessible at affordable prices and setting a template for future partnerships with figures like (2005) and (2014). The mid-2000s saw further international push, including first stores in and in 2007, alongside the launch of the brand targeting premium minimalist fashion. In 2008, H&M acquired FaBric Scandinavien , incorporating youth-oriented brands Weekday, Monki, and into its portfolio. The company published its inaugural report in 2002, but faced mounting scrutiny over labor conditions, particularly in , where reports highlighted inadequate wages and unsafe factories despite early audits. By 2009, H&M introduced its home goods line, H&M Home, amid CEO transition to , who oversaw continued store proliferation but also initial e-commerce delays in key markets like the until 2013. The 2010s brought diversified brand launches, including & Other Stories in 2013 for elevated womenswear, H&M Studio at for , and the H&M with garment initiatives to address . The 2013 Rana Plaza factory collapse in , which killed over 1,100 workers, intensified global pressure on ; H&M signed the Accord on Fire and Building Safety, committing to factory inspections and remediation, though critics noted persistent gaps in enforcement and ongoing violations in supplier facilities. ARKET debuted in 2017 as a sustainable , followed by Afound in 2018 for off-price retail. Sustainability efforts expanded with the 2015 Award for innovation and H&M Beauty, but accusations of greenwashing emerged, including a 2023 exposé revealing limited actual from its "Close the Loop" program despite collecting 18,800 tons of garments annually. The in 2020 severely disrupted operations, with net sales declining 18% for the fiscal year to 182.5 billion due to store closures and reduced foot traffic, prompting accelerated adoption and plans to shutter hundreds of physical locations. Leadership shifted with becoming CEO, focusing on cost controls amid inventory overhangs and competition from agile rivals like . By 2022, H&M set ambitious climate goals, targeting a 56% emissions reduction by 2030, and launched H&M Move for activewear. A 2023 , Looper Textile Co., aimed to enhance circularity through industrial . In January 2024, Daniel Ervér succeeded Helmersson as CEO amid slumping sales and stock declines, inheriting challenges like excess inventory and margin pressures from oversupply. Turnaround efforts yielded results, with Q3 2025 operating surging to exceed expectations through improved margins and expense reductions, alongside Cheap Monday's relaunch under Weekday. However, ongoing controversies persisted, including a 2025 class-action alleging misleading claims and ethical lapses like labor abuses in suppliers. Despite these, trailing twelve-month revenue reached €19.6 billion by October 2025, reflecting resilience in a consolidating landscape.

Business Model and Core Operations

Fast Fashion Principles and Supply Chain Efficiency

H&M employs a model characterized by rapid trend identification, in-house design, and frequent collection refreshes to deliver affordable apparel, with new styles introduced weekly to align with consumer preferences and minimize . This approach prioritizes short product life cycles, enabling the company to respond to market signals through style flexibility and quick production scaling, though it relies more on forecasted volumes than compared to vertically integrated rivals. The emphasizes outsourced to achieve cost efficiencies, with no owned factories; is handled by over suppliers across more than ,100 tier-1 factories, predominantly in low-wage regions like , allowing H&M to leverage without heavy capital investment in assets. Supply chains vary in structure, including short vertical tiers for select items and longer horizontal ones spanning multiple subcontractors for raw materials and components, which supports volume-driven pricing but introduces complexities in oversight and variability. Efficiency gains stem from integrated IT systems for supplier coordination, , and , complemented by in-house networks that streamline global transport and reduce bottlenecks. Average lead times from to hover around 21 days for standard items—longer than Zara's 14 days due to geographic dispersion of suppliers—but H&M has shortened them by 15-20% via process refinements like optimized sourcing and transport protocols. These elements collectively enable high turnover rates and low margins, underpinning H&M's strategy of volume over exclusivity.

Sourcing, Manufacturing, and Outsourcing Practices

H&M Group relies exclusively on an outsourced manufacturing model, contracting independent suppliers for rather than maintaining owned factories, which enables rapid scaling and cost efficiency in line with demands. This approach involves over 570 commercial product suppliers operating more than 1,100 factories, predominantly in (including , , , and ), Europe (such as ), and select other regions as of 2024. The company publishes detailed supplier lists biannually, mapping facilities since 2013 to facilitate on risks like forced labor. Raw materials sourcing centers on textiles like , which constitutes a major cost input, with H&M targeting 100% recycled or sustainably sourced materials across all products by 2030 and 30% recycled by 2025. In fiscal year 2024 (ending November 30), 89% of materials used were recycled or sustainably sourced, up from 83% in 2023, incorporating , recycled , and alternatives like seaweed-based fibers through partnerships. H&M enforces a supplier mandating compliance with labor standards, environmental regulations, and ethical sourcing, supplemented by third-party audits and initiatives like collaborative financing for supplier sustainability upgrades. Despite these measures, supplier factories have faced documented controversies over labor conditions. In 2025, investigations in Indian facilities revealed that all 50 interviewed female workers reported pregnancy-related dismissals, alongside verbal abuse and inadequate facilities. Earlier reports from 2018 highlighted sexual harassment, physical abuse, and gender-based violence in Asian suppliers, with groups like the Asia Floor Wage Alliance alleging persistent failures in remediation. In Bangladesh, workers' rights organizations claimed hundreds of thousands labored in unsafe conditions as recently as 2023, prompting H&M to emphasize audits while critics questioned enforcement efficacy. H&M phased out Myanmar operations in 2023 amid rising post-coup allegations of abuses, including military-linked extortion, though the company maintained its commitments to affected workers. These issues reflect broader fast fashion pressures for low costs, which independent monitors attribute to insufficient leverage over distant suppliers despite H&M's stated priorities on human rights.

Retail Channels, E-commerce, and Digital Innovations

H&M operates a network of approximately 4,100 physical stores across more than 79 markets worldwide as of mid-2025, reflecting a strategic optimization of its footprint that includes closures of underperforming locations to counter post-2019 declines. The company maintains flagship stores in key urban centers and shopping malls, emphasizing prime locations to drive foot traffic and integrate with broader strategies. Physical remains central to H&M's model, with ongoing investments in store refreshes and to enhance efficiency, such as energy-saving technologies deployed in over 90 outlets in 2025. E-commerce constitutes a growing pillar, available in 60 markets and accounting for about 30% of total sales in the third quarter of 2024, underscoring a shift toward digital channels amid varying regional consumer preferences. Online platforms like hm.com generated significant , with unified systems enabling seamless fulfillment from stores to support buy-online-pickup-in-store options and faster . This channel's expansion has been prioritized through improved user interfaces and localized offerings, contributing to net sales stability despite physical store reductions. Digital innovations focus on AI-driven enhancements to bridge physical and online experiences, including data analytics for personalized recommendations and inventory management to reduce overstock risks inherent in cycles. H&M employs in stores for operational upgrades, such as predictive stocking and customer flow optimization, positioning physical locations as tech-enabled hubs against pure-play online competitors. Additional technologies like , , and support virtual try-ons and immersive shopping, with 2024 investments emphasizing hybrid retail models over standalone digital pivots. These efforts align with causal efficiencies in supply-demand matching, though outcomes depend on execution amid competitive pressures from low-cost e-tailers.

Brands, Products, and Collaborations

The H&M Core Brand and Product Categories

The H&M core brand serves as the flagship offering of H&M Group, focusing on accessible, trend-responsive apparel and related products designed for mass-market consumers across demographics including women, men, teenagers, children, and infants. Launched originally as women's clothing in and expanded to include menswear by 1968, the brand emphasizes seasonal collections that blend casual, professional, and occasion-specific styles at low price points, typically ranging from $5 to $50 per item. Key apparel categories encompass tops (including t-shirts, blouses, shirts, sweaters, and hoodies), bottoms (jeans, pants, skirts, and shorts), dresses, outerwear (jackets, coats, and blazers), , swimwear, and activewear. For women and men, subcategories target versatile everyday wear alongside trendier pieces like party outfits and , with dedicated plus-size and maternity lines broadening accessibility. Children's offerings mirror adult categories but scaled for infants, toddlers, kids, and teens, prioritizing durable, playful designs in basics and seasonal trends. Accessories form a supporting pillar, including bags, jewelry, belts, hats, scarves, and , often coordinated with for complete looks. Footwear spans casual , boots, heels, and sandals, emphasizing affordability and style alignment with apparel. Beyond fashion, the core brand extends to H&M Home, which provides textiles (bedding, towels, curtains), tableware, storage solutions, and small decorative items for interior styling, launched in to diversify into products. H&M Beauty includes cosmetics, skincare, and hair accessories, though its prominence has fluctuated by region and is less central than apparel. Sustainability initiatives, such as the Conscious Collection utilizing , recycled materials, and lower-impact dyes, are embedded across categories to address environmental critiques without altering the core fast-fashion model. These categories collectively drive the brand's volume-driven strategy, with apparel comprising over 90% of sales volume as of recent fiscal reports.

Subsidiary and Concept Brands

H&M Group operates a portfolio of concept brands distinct from its core H&M label, each targeting specific demographics, styles, and price points to diversify its market reach. These brands emphasize varied aesthetics, from minimalist luxury to youth-oriented streetwear, while sharing the group's supply chain efficiencies and sustainability goals. As of 2025, active concept brands include COS, & Other Stories, Arket, and Weekday, with the latter incorporating elements of Cheap Monday and the former Monki brand following store closures. , launched in March 2007 with its first store on London's , positions itself as an upscale, minimalist line offering high-quality clothing and accessories for men and women. The focuses on architectural silhouettes, palettes, and fabrics, appealing to professionals seeking refined, timeless pieces at accessible prices higher than H&M's core offerings. By 2025, COS operates over 260 stores across 48 markets, emphasizing global online sales in addition to physical retail. & Other Stories, introduced in March 2013 with initial stores in , , and alongside an online launch in ten European markets, curates eclectic, story-driven collections of apparel, , accessories, and products. Targeting creative women with a bohemian-chic sensibility, it collaborates with independent designers and emphasizes artisanal details, bridging speed with elevated craftsmanship. The brand expanded to the U.S. in 2015 and maintains around 70 stores worldwide as of 2025, with strong presence. Arket, debuting in August 2017 on London's with simultaneous online availability in 18 European markets, functions as a promoting sustainable, functional across clothing, accessories, and home goods. It prioritizes durable, versatile items made from responsibly sourced materials, appealing to environmentally conscious consumers valuing quality over trends. Arket's stores feature cafe spaces to foster community, and by 2025, it has grown to dozens of locations primarily in , supplemented by global sales. Weekday, originating in 2002 as a denim specialist influenced by street culture and acquired by H&M Group to bolster its youth segment, specializes in casual, trend-driven apparel with a focus on jeans, graphics, and urban basics. It relaunched —a skull-logoed sub-label started in 2004 for edgy, affordable —under its umbrella in recent years, while integrating Monki's playful, youthful designs digitally after closing all approximately 60 Monki stores in 2025 to streamline operations. Weekday now serves as a multi-brand platform for Gen Z, offering curated selections via evolving online and select physical outlets, with emphasis on cultural relevance and . Other initiatives, such as the membership-based Singular Society launched in 2020, provide essentials at production cost to promote and affordability in premium goods, though it operates more as a venture than a traditional concept. The digital outlet Afound, which discounted H&M Group collections, was discontinued in late due to insufficient demand. These brands collectively contribute to H&M Group's strategy of segmenting the market while leveraging shared for cost control.

Designer Partnerships and Limited Editions

H&M launched its guest designer collaboration initiative in November 2004 with , then creative director at , producing a capsule collection of womenswear and menswear priced accessibly to appeal to a broad audience. This marked the first of many limited-edition partnerships aimed at infusing with luxury aesthetics, often resulting in rapid sell-outs and queues outside stores. Subsequent collaborations followed annually or biennially, featuring prominent designers and expanding into accessories and childrenswear. In November 2005, contributed eco-conscious pieces emphasizing sustainable materials. partnered in November 2006 for avant-garde couture-inspired items, while Roberto Cavalli's 2007 collection introduced bold prints and animal motifs. collaborated in 2008, delivering asymmetric and conceptual designs under Rei Kawakubo's direction. The program diversified in the late 2000s and 2010s, with Jimmy Choo focusing on footwear and handbags in 2009, and Sonia Rykiel on lingerie in 2010. Versace's 2011 line brought baroque opulence to everyday wear, followed by Alber Elbaz's Lanvin collection emphasizing feminine silhouettes. Marni and Maison Martin Margiela each released capsules in 2012, the latter known for trompe-l'œil effects and deconstructed tailoring. Later partnerships included in 2013 for streetwear-infused , in 2014 blending and sporty elements, and Balmain in 2015 with embellished, power-shouldered pieces. Kenzo's 2016 collection incorporated psychedelic prints, Erdem's 2017 offerings featured floral , and Moschino's 2018 line satirized pop culture icons. Giambattista Valli collaborated in 2019 on romantic, voluminous gowns adapted for .
YearDesigner(s)Focus
2004Karl LagerfeldWomenswear and menswear basics with luxury tailoring
2005Stella McCartneySustainable womenswear
2006Viktor & RolfCouture-inspired ready-to-wear
2007Roberto CavalliPrinted dresses and accessories
2008Comme des GarçonsConceptual unisex pieces
2009Jimmy ChooShoes and bags
2011VersaceBold, ornate apparel
2012Marni / Maison Martin MargielaPatterned and deconstructed designs
2015BalmainEmbellished eveningwear
2019Giambattista ValliVoluminous couture adaptations
To commemorate the 20th anniversary in October 2024, H&M re-released select pre-loved items from collaborations including Lagerfeld, McCartney, , Cavalli, , Marni, , and others via pop-up events in , , and . These limited editions underscore H&M's strategy of leveraging designer prestige for hype-driven sales while promoting resale to address sustainability critiques.

Financial Performance and Corporate Governance

H&M Group's net sales grew from SEK 187,031 million in fiscal year 2020 (ending November 30) to a peak of SEK 236,035 million in 2023, reflecting recovery from pandemic-related disruptions and expansion in channels, before a slight decline to SEK 234,478 million in 2024 amid currency fluctuations, though local-currency sales rose 1 percent. This trajectory demonstrates resilience in core markets like , supported by cost efficiencies and selective store optimizations that reduced the total store count from 5,018 in 2020 to 4,253 in 2024. Profitability metrics showed greater volatility, with operating profit surging to 15,255 million (7.7 percent margin) in 2021 before dipping to 7,169 million (3.2 percent) in 2022 due to elevated costs and challenges, then rebounding to 17,306 million (7.4 percent margin) in 2024 via gross margin expansion to 53.4 percent from better sourcing and reduced markdowns. Operating expenses increased modestly by 1 percent in local currencies for 2024, reflecting disciplined control despite inflationary pressures.
Fiscal YearNet Sales (SEK m)Sales Change (%)Operating Profit (SEK m)Operating Margin (%)
2020187,031-203,0991.7
2021198,967+615,2557.7
2022223,553+127,1693.2
2023236,035+614,5376.2
2024234,478-117,3067.4
Recent interim results indicate continued momentum, with nine-month operating profit for 2025 (through September) rising 40 percent to 4,914 million at an 8.6 percent margin, driven by stronger customer offerings and operational efficiencies. Overall growth has shifted toward sustainable profitability over volume expansion, prioritizing higher margins through refinements rather than aggressive store growth.

Ownership Structure and Key Financial Metrics

H & M Hennes & Mauritz AB (publ) is publicly listed on under the ticker HM B, with dual-class shares consisting of class A shares (each carrying 10 votes) and class B shares (each carrying 1 vote). As of 30 September 2025, the company had 1,604,491,375 , including 194,400,000 class A shares and 1,410,091,375 class B shares. The structure enables concentrated voting control by long-term holders, particularly the founding Persson family, whose entities—such as Invest AB—predominantly own class A shares. This family holds 1,048,656,855 shares, representing 65.36% of total capital and 83.43% of voting rights, reflecting ongoing share repurchases and acquisitions that have increased their influence since 2023. The next largest shareholder is the Lottie Tham family and , with 88,680,651 shares (5.53% of capital, 2.64% of votes). Institutional investors hold smaller stakes, with funds dominating due to the company's domestic base; accounts for 8.97% of shares and 4.29% of votes.
ShareholderShares Held% of Capital% of Votes
Stefan Persson family & related1,048,656,85565.3683.43
family & related88,680,6515.532.64
AMF Fonder & Pension32,558,2622.030.97
Funds21,436,1301.340.64
20,450,3941.270.61
For the fiscal year ending 30 November 2024, H&M Group achieved net sales of SEK 234,478 million, operating profit of SEK 17,306 million (7.4% ), and net profit of SEK 11,584 million (4.9% net margin). totaled SEK 46,211 million, with an equity-to-assets ratio of 25.6%, indicating moderate amid inventory and investments. The company's reached SEK 288.77 billion as of 24 October 2025, reflecting a share price of approximately SEK 180 for class B shares and a trailing P/E ratio of around 25. Total debt stood at approximately SEK 62 billion (USD 5.89 billion equivalent) as of May 2025, with a of 1.67, supported by SEK 17,340 million in cash equivalents. These metrics underscore improved profitability from cost controls and sales recovery post-2023, though margins remain pressured by fast-fashion competition and currency fluctuations.

Strategic Investments and Cost Management

H&M Group has prioritized investments in its physical and digital retail infrastructure as the largest expenditure category, aiming to enhance customer experiences through store refurbishments, new openings, and optimizations. In 2025, these investments continued to focus on creating inspiring shopping environments, with plans including the launch of the brand's first store in . The company also issued a €500 million in October 2023 under its Euro programme to finance sustainable initiatives aligned with strategic growth. Through H&M Group Ventures, the company has committed over 3 billion to a of 35 startups by February 2025, targeting innovations in technology, , and to support long-term operational advancements. This venture arm remained active into mid-2025, adding three new s in the prior 12 months across 29 total companies. Additionally, H&M has directed toward new technologies, implementing a structured approach in its 2024 annual to balance cost reductions with efficiency gains in areas like and data analytics. On cost management, H&M launched a global efficiency programme in November 2022, incorporating restructuring charges to streamline operations and lower overheads across its and administrative functions. This included reducing supplier numbers to foster deeper, longer-term partnerships that enhance purchasing leverage and production reliability, contributing to improved margins as evidenced by exceeding forecasts in Q3 2025. The firm's model delegates non-core activities such as to specialized partners, allowing focus on , , and while pursuing cost efficiencies through localized sourcing and lead-time reductions. H&M's purchasing practices incorporate efficiency metrics, calculating labor costs based on production times, worker wages, and output rates to ensure competitive pricing without compromising viability. This approach supports a multidomestic operational structure with centralized control, enabling low-cost scales that align with fast-fashion demands while mitigating inventory risks through agile . Overall, these strategies have driven modest net sales growth of 1% in local currencies for 2024, amid efforts to counteract inflationary pressures and competitive dynamics in apparel .

Global Expansion and Market Presence

Store Network and Regional Strategies

As of November 30, 2024, the H&M Group operated 4,253 stores across 79 markets, reflecting a net decrease of 116 stores from the previous year following 88 openings and 204 closures. The store network is concentrated in , which accounted for 2,449 locations, followed by , , and with 1,045 stores and North and with 759 stores.
RegionNumber of Stores (Nov. 30, 2024)
Europe2,449
Nordics380
1,016
479
574
, & 1,045
North & 759
Total4,253
In mature markets like and , H&M's strategy emphasizes through selective closures of underperforming stores and investments in upgrades for flagship locations in fashion hubs such as and . For 2025, the company plans approximately 80 openings offset by around 190 closures, with the majority of reductions targeted at established regions to improve profitability amid softening consumer demand. In the United States, which hosted 509 stores in 2024, this approach includes net reductions while enhancing integration between physical outlets and . Conversely, expansion in emerging markets drives growth, with new store formats and models prioritized in high-potential areas. In 2024, H&M entered with its first physical store and the via , alongside digital launches in platforms like 's Ajio.com. features prominently in future plans, including a São Paulo store opening in autumn 2025 and entries into and , as the company shifts focus from saturated North American and European markets to capitalize on rising demand in and . In , strategies integrate physical expansion with enhanced online presence and localized content creator partnerships to strengthen . Overall, these regional tactics align physical stores with digital channels to support seamless customer experiences while adapting to varying economic conditions.

Entries, Exits, and Adaptations in Key Markets

H&M expanded into the United States, a key North American market, by opening its flagship store on Fifth Avenue in New York City in 2000, initiating significant growth beyond Europe. This entry capitalized on the demand for affordable fast fashion in urban centers, leading to a network of stores across the country. In , H&M entered with its first store in on April 12, 2007, followed by rapid openings including in 2009. Entry into occurred on October 2, 2015, with the inaugural store at mall in . These moves targeted high-growth emerging economies with large consumer bases and increasing disposable incomes. H&M's notable market exit involved , where it suspended sales on March 2, 2022, and began full divestment on July 18, 2022, due to operational disruptions and geopolitical instability following the of . The company has no plans to return. Adaptations in key markets have included portfolio optimization through closures of underperforming stores, with 135 shut globally in the nine months ending August 31, 2025—mostly in , , , and 21 in —to focus on profitability. In mature markets like and , approximately 200 additional closures are planned for 2025 amid elevated costs and subdued spending. Conversely, in growth-oriented Asian markets such as , H&M has revitalized flagships, reopening the original location in 2025 as the 'House of H&M' concept to enhance experiential retail. Expansion efforts prioritize emerging regions like and , balancing physical stores with to align with local consumer behaviors and economic shifts.

Response to Geopolitical and Economic Shifts

In response to the , which triggered widespread store closures and disrupted global supply chains starting in early 2020, H&M prioritized liquidity preservation and accelerated its , with online sales compensating for physical retail declines by shifting consumer behavior toward . The company committed to honoring payment terms with suppliers despite cancellations by competitors, avoiding abrupt order terminations that exacerbated industry-wide factory shutdowns in countries like . By , H&M had closed approximately 250 underperforming stores globally while planning to double group sales by 2030 through expanded online channels and selective physical expansions. Amid inflation and rising input costs in 2022–2023, driven by freight surges and shortages, H&M implemented cost reductions targeting 2 billion in savings, including tighter supplier partnerships and inventory optimization to counteract profitability erosion. These measures contributed to improved margins as inflationary pressures eased by late 2023, with gross margins stabilizing despite ongoing economic softening in mature markets like the and . In 2025, facing anticipated tariffs under renewed trade policies, H&M accelerated nearshoring and regional reconfiguration, reducing reliance on distant Asian hubs to mitigate impacts and enhance responsiveness. Geopolitically, H&M suspended all sales in and on March 2, 2022, following Russia's of , citing humanitarian concerns, and fully exited the Russian market by July 2022 after liquidating inventory through temporary store reopenings. Operations in were halted earlier for employee and customer safety, affecting a minor portion of total sales (about 0.3% from and combined). In response to allegations of forced labor in cotton production, H&M ceased sourcing from the region in 2020, prompting a consumer in that led to a first-quarter 2021 loss and vows to restore market trust through alternative sourcing. To address broader geopolitical risks, including trade tensions and disruptions like shipping issues, H&M diversified its supplier base across multiple countries and regions, enabling quicker adaptation to events such as the factory closures. This strategy, emphasized in 2024–2025 reports, focuses on proximity sourcing for key markets—such as and —to lower lead times and exposure to sanctions or tariffs, while expanding into resilient emerging markets like and amid slowdowns elsewhere.

Economic and Social Contributions

Job Creation and Supply Chain Impacts

H&M Group directly employs approximately 135,000 people worldwide as of 2024, with the majority in , , and corporate functions across its operations in over 70 markets. These positions span full-time, part-time, and seasonal roles, contributing to local economies through payroll taxes, training programs, and community integration, particularly in urban hubs. The company's extends employment impacts far beyond direct hires, supporting around 1.4 million workers in (garment ) and tier 2 (fabric and raw materials) supplier factories as of recent disclosures, with 61% of these roles held by women. Suppliers number in the thousands, predominantly in —countries such as , , , and —where H&M sources over 90% of its , fostering industrial clusters and ancillary jobs in transportation, packaging, and services. This model leverages lower labor costs in developing economies, enabling rapid scaling but concentrating employment in labor-intensive garment sectors that absorb rural migrants and provide formal work alternatives to . Economically, H&M's presence has driven job multiplication effects in supplier nations; for instance, initiatives like fair pilots in factories have reached nearly one million workers since 2018, correlating with modest increases averaging 5% over three years in participating sites and improved household through better income predictability. However, jobs often remain low-skill and precarious, with reports from worker advocacy groups documenting persistent poverty-level s below local living standards in H&M-affiliated factories in and as of 2025, alongside issues like pregnancy-related dismissals and overtime pressures that undermine long-term economic security. H&M attributes such challenges to broader dynamics and local regulations, responding via supplier audits, systems, and partnerships for ethical , though independent verifications indicate uneven implementation. Overall, while H&M's model generates substantial volume—outpacing many peers in scale—it amplifies dependency on volatile fast-fashion demand, prompting critiques that it perpetuates underpaid labor pools rather than sustainable skill development in host economies.

Consumer Benefits and Market Democratization

H&M's model has enabled widespread access to trendy apparel by prioritizing low production costs and rapid , allowing the company to offer clothing at prices significantly below traditional averages. For instance, many items such as basic and retail for under $20 USD, with the majority of products priced below equivalent of 3,000 INR (approximately $36 USD) in analyzed categories, catering to price-sensitive consumers across demographics. This approach contrasts with higher-end fashion houses, where similar styles might cost multiples more, effectively lowering entry barriers for non-elite buyers and expanding participation in current trends. Consumers benefit from enhanced variety and timeliness, as H&M's —leveraging independent suppliers and trend data—delivers thousands of new styles weekly, mirroring high-fashion runways at a fraction of the cost. With annual sales exceeding 234 billion (about $22 billion USD) in 2024 and a network of over 4,200 stores globally, the brand reaches a vast audience, including young adults and families seeking affordable updates to wardrobes without substantial financial strain. This democratization shifts fashion from an exclusive domain to a mass-market utility, empowering average households to allocate elsewhere while maintaining social signaling through style. By fostering in and speed, H&M has pressured to match , resulting in broader market inclusivity where budget constraints no longer dictate aesthetic choices. Empirical sales growth, peaking at $24.71 billion USD in , underscores this impact, as increased consumer volume reflects heightened affordability rather than premium positioning. However, this model assumes sustained demand for low-cost items, with benefits most pronounced for those prioritizing value over longevity.

Philanthropy via H&M Foundation

The H&M Foundation, an independent nonprofit funded by the H&M Group, channels philanthropy toward systemic innovations in the and sectors, emphasizing and equitable transitions. Established prior to , it prioritizes grants and acceleration programs over direct operational aid, with a focus on early-stage technologies to decarbonize industry processes. The foundation's primary vehicle is the Global Change Award (GCA), initiated in to foster breakthroughs enabling the to halve every decade en route to net-zero by 2050. By October 2025, the GCA had disbursed €10 million in grants to 56 teams from 23 countries, selected annually from global submissions for their potential to scale low-emission solutions like alternative materials and energy-efficient . Each cohort of ten winners receives €200,000 per team, supplemented by the yearlong Changemaker Programme offering mentorship from partners including and . In 2025, winners included innovations in biomass-based fibers and electrochemical dyeing, announced on May 20. Beyond the GCA, the foundation funds targeted initiatives, such as the September 2025 commitment of SEK 53 million (approximately €5 million) to Future Forward Factories, a five-year program led by Fashion for Good to prototype near net-zero wet processing in textile mills across . This builds on prior efforts, including reports co-authored with entities like Circle Economy in December 2024, mapping circularity gaps in apparel value chains to inform grant priorities. Outcomes remain developmental, with supported technologies at pilot stages rather than widespread deployment, reflecting the foundation's emphasis on proof-of-concept over immediate metrics. While the 's initiatives align with industry-wide decarbonization pledges, they have drawn indirect amid broader H&M critiques, including allegations of overstated circularity claims in related programs; however, no verified audits attribute greenwashing specifically to foundation . is maintained through annual disclosures, though measurable emission reductions from grantees are not publicly quantified beyond qualitative progress reports.

Sustainability Initiatives

Environmental Goals and Material Sourcing

H&M Group has established science-based targets aligned with the , committing to reduce absolute scope 1, 2, and 3 by 56% by 2030 from a 2019 baseline, with validated approval from the . As of 2024, the company reported a 41% reduction in scopes 1 and 2 emissions and a 24% reduction in scope 3 emissions relative to the baseline, attributing progress to supplier shifts toward lower-emission practices and increased use. Long-term, H&M aims for by 2040, targeting a 90-95% absolute reduction with residual emissions offset via carbon removal technologies. Additional environmental objectives include phasing out hazardous chemicals, with a goal of zero discharges to and by 2030, and achieving 100% renewable across the by the same year. The company emphasizes , such as reducing use in , though specific quantified beyond material-related metrics are less prominently detailed in public reporting. In material sourcing, H&M targets 100% of materials to be either recycled or sustainably sourced by 2030, encompassing certified , recycled, or responsibly managed fibers like Better Cotton Initiative-approved . Progress reached 89% in 2024, up from 85% in 2023, driven by increased use of recycled from waste rather than bottles to enhance quality and circularity. For recycled specifically, the interim is 30% by 2025 (achieving 29.5% in 2024), with an aspiration for 50% by 2030, supported by investments such as a $600 million stake in Syre, a -to- technology venture launched in 2024. transparency involves auditing suppliers for with standards, including deforestation-free commitments for key materials like viscose and , though independent verifications remain limited to select certifications rather than full third-party audits of all claims.

Circularity Programs and Waste Reduction

H&M Group operates an in-store garment collecting program, initiated in , through which customers return used textiles for sorting into categories for , resale, or . In 2024, the program collected 17,100 metric tons of garments globally. Collected items are processed to maximize value retention, with wearable garments directed to second-hand markets via platforms like Sellpy and H&M Preloved, while non-reusable textiles undergo mechanical or chemical where feasible. The company pursues textile-to-textile through investments in technologies such as those from Infinited Fiber Company and partnerships like the October 2025 collaboration with Circ, which introduced products incorporating recycled fibers from polycotton waste. In 2024, 29.5% of materials in commercial products derived from recycled sources, approaching the 30% target for 2025 and supporting a longer-term goal of 50% by 2030. Overall, 89% of materials used were recycled or , with a commitment to reach 100% by 2030. Waste reduction efforts emphasize minimizing generation at source through optimized and AI-driven forecasting, resulting in product waste comprising just 0.7% of total commercial product weight in , of which 95% was diverted for or . followed suit, with 93% directed to or pathways. H&M Group maintains a goal of to across operations, prioritizing the to recirculate materials at their highest possible value. Independent investigations, however, have questioned the and of outcomes from collected volumes, noting that much of the material ends in or rather than closed-loop fiber production.

Technological Innovations and Awards

H&M Group established an department in 2018 to support sustainable business decisions, including through and . The company employs algorithms to analyze , levels, and external factors such as and trends, reducing and in cycles. In , H&M integrates technology for tracing garments from raw materials to retail, enhancing transparency and verifying ethical sourcing claims. Further advancements include generative applications launched in 2025 to generate imagery and amplify creative processes, such as producing without physical photoshoots. H&M has developed models of real individuals—replicating 30 models as of 2025—for virtual try-ons and marketing, minimizing the environmental impact of traditional modeling. In-store technologies feature to create personalized avatars for virtual fitting, alongside real-time product tracking and -driven store simulations to optimize layouts and stock replenishment. These tools, including zero-waste design software, aim to cut material waste during prototyping. H&M's Looop recycling system, an in-store machine that shreds and respins old garments into new yarn using automated processing, received the Experimental category win in Fast Company's 2019 World Changing Ideas Awards, with finalist status in the EMEA best idea category. The initiative demonstrates closed-loop recycling tech, processing polyester blends without sorting. While H&M Foundation's Global Change Award program has funded external tech innovations since 2015—awarding €2 million annually to early-stage decarbonization projects like bio-based dyes and waste-to-fabric tech—the company itself has garnered limited direct technology-specific accolades beyond sustainability integrations. H&M's digital transformation efforts, including AI-enhanced e-commerce personalization, earned recognition in the 2024 IPA Effectiveness Awards for driving organic search growth and multichannel integration.

Labor Practices and Ethical Sourcing

Workplace Standards and Supplier Audits

H&M Group requires all suppliers to adhere to its Sustainability Commitment, a binding that prohibits child labor, forced labor, , and excessive working hours while mandating safe workplaces, fair wages meeting local legal minimums, and in line with conventions. Suppliers must undergo initial risk assessments before orders are placed, including self-assessments validated by H&M staff, followed by regular on-site inspections. Non-compliance can result in corrective action plans, capacity-building support, or contract termination, as evidenced by the termination of five suppliers in for failing to meet standards. The Sustainable Impact Partnership Programme (SIPP), H&M's primary framework for supplier evaluation, integrates minimum workplace requirements with performance metrics on , health and safety, and environmental management. In 2023, 100% of (direct ) and Tier 2 (wet ) supplier factories participated in SIPP, encompassing 876 factories and 422 Tier 2 factories. SIPP involves annual self-assessments, H&M validations, and targeted audits, with factories assigned a Index score from 0 to 100 to guide improvements. Audits combine internal reviews by H&M's 135 dedicated personnel across production offices with third-party verifications using the Higg Facility Social & Labor Module (FSLM). In 2023, H&M conducted FSLM assessments on 68% of factories and 61% of Tier 2 factories, achieving third-party verification for 90% of participants (790 verifications) and 94% of Tier 2 participants (415 verifications). These audits cover over 300 checkpoints on topics including , chemical handling, and worker grievance mechanisms, informed by input from over 205,000 factory workers surveyed that year. Compliance indicators included 97% of factories having health and safety committees and 98% across tiers offering grievance channels via social dialogue. Enforcement emphasizes risk-based monitoring and remediation, aligned with UN Guiding Principles on Business and and OECD guidelines, though union representation in Tier 1 factories declined to 37% in 2023 from 42% in 2022, with coverage at 29%. H&M reports no systemic violations in audited facilities but prioritizes high-risk areas like and through intensified training for over 500 supplier managers in 2023. Independent assessments, such as those from the Corporate Human Rights Benchmark, affirm H&M's policies include supplier contract clauses on free movement and remediation but note gaps in public disclosure of remediation outcomes.

Wage Policies, Training, and Improvements

H&M Group's wage policies for its supply chain are outlined in its Code of Conduct, which mandates compliance with local labor laws, including payment of legal minimum wages and timely remuneration without unauthorized deductions. Suppliers must also ensure wages reflect skills, experience, and responsibility, as part of a broader 2013 commitment to transition toward fair living wages through industry collaboration, though independent assessments indicate persistent gaps between average wages and living wage benchmarks in key production countries like Bangladesh and Cambodia. The company publishes annual gross average wage data compared to minimum wages across its Tier 1 and Tier 2 suppliers, revealing averages exceeding minima in most factories—for instance, in 2023 data showing compliance rates above 90% in audited sites—but critics from labor advocacy groups argue these figures often fall short of poverty lines or living wage estimates derived from local cost-of-living analyses. To support wage progression, H&M implements supplier on wage management systems, introduced in across ten production countries, which teaches factories to structure compensation based on performance metrics rather than piece-rate alone, aiming to reduce inequality and enable . Worker-level programs focus on awareness, including modules on understanding pay slips, mechanisms, and skills, delivered through partnerships like the Sustainable Impact Partnership Program, which assesses labor impacts and provides remediation to over 1,000 factories annually. These initiatives are monitored via third-party audits, such as those by Better Work, which verify but have documented inconsistencies in uptake, particularly in smaller subcontractors where relies on supplier self-reporting. Improvements in wages have been attributed to H&M's promotion of workplace dialogue and collective bargaining, with factory-level negotiations resulting in documented wage hikes—for example, average wage increases of 10-15% in select Bangladesh suppliers following 2023 minimum wage reforms, supported by adjusted purchasing prices from the company. A 2024 pledge by H&M CEO Daniel Ervér emphasized enhanced supplier pricing to cover rising labor costs, alongside remediation processes for non-compliant factories, leading to reported advancements in 20% of assessed sites per Fair Wage Network evaluations. However, longitudinal data from global audits show uneven progress, with living wage achievement remaining below 5% in H&M's supply chain as of 2023, per activist analyses citing worker testimonies of overtime dependency to meet basic needs, underscoring challenges in scaling improvements amid fast-fashion production pressures. H&M's efforts earned an "advanced" rating in the 2023 Platform Living Wage Financials assessment for transparency in wage tracking, though this self-disclosed metric has been questioned by NGOs for lacking independent living wage benchmarks.

Incidents, Reforms, and Third-Party Verifications

In August 2016, investigations uncovered child labor at H&M supplier factories in , where workers as young as 14 were employed for shifts exceeding 12 hours daily under hazardous conditions. H&M acknowledged the findings from unannounced audits and terminated contracts with non-compliant facilities, though critics from organizations like the Clean Clothes Campaign argued that such issues stemmed from inadequate oversight in high-risk sourcing regions. By 2021, reports emerged of systemic against female workers at Natchi Apparels, an Indian supplier for H&M, including the alleged of a 21-year-old employee by a supervisor, prompting H&M to launch an internal probe and suspend orders pending verification. Similar allegations surfaced in in 2015, where documented forced overtime, wage deductions, and physical abuse at factories producing for H&M, leading the company to enforce remediation plans such as back-pay and supervisor dismissals. In 2023, H&M faced 20 documented cases of labor abuses at suppliers over two years, including excessive hours and unsafe conditions amid political instability, resulting in the company's decision to phase out all production there by the end of the year. Earlier that year, a study of 1,000 Bangladeshi factories identified H&M among brands engaging in pricing below production costs, exacerbating wage theft during the , with workers losing an estimated 10-20% of earnings through deductions. Following these incidents, H&M introduced reforms including enhanced supplier mapping and a 2024 pledge to prioritize through long-term contracts and capacity-building programs for 1,000+ factories, aiming to cover 100% of production tiers by 2025. The company also revised its practices in 2018 via the Roadmap to Fair Living Wage, incorporating supplier input to stabilize orders and reduce pressure for overtime, as reviewed by the Ethical Trading Initiative. In response to forced labor risks, H&M severed ties with a yarn supplier in 2020 after labor allegations and expanded traceability tools across its . Third-party verifications include regular independent audits by accredited firms, covering initial compliance checks and follow-ups for over 90% of suppliers, with remediation rates exceeding 85% for identified violations as of 2023. H&M participates in the , where self-assessments via tools like the Higg Facility Environmental Module are validated by Cascale-approved verifiers, focusing on labor metrics such as hours and . Worker surveys facilitated by the Fair Wage Network since 2011 provide external benchmarks, though NGO critiques, including a 2025 report on persistent abuses in Cambodian and factories, question the depth of despite these mechanisms. In , post-2016 inspections by worker rights groups found delays in upgrades at H&M suppliers, with over 60% lacking adequate exits as late as January 2016, underscoring gaps between verification claims and on-ground realities.

Controversies and Criticisms

Allegations of Poor Working Conditions

H&M has faced numerous allegations of inadequate working conditions in its supplier factories, primarily in countries such as , , and , where garment workers report poverty-level wages, excessive overtime, and verbal, physical, or . These claims, often documented through worker interviews by advocacy organizations, attribute issues to the fast-fashion model's demands for rapid production and low costs, which suppliers allegedly pass on via intensified labor pressures. In Cambodia, a 2015 Human Rights Watch investigation into H&M supplier factories found workers compelled to complete unattainable daily production quotas through mandatory overtime exceeding legal limits, with overtime pay frequently withheld or delayed; one factory enforced 12-hour shifts six or seven days per week, leaving workers exhausted and unable to refuse without dismissal threats. Similarly, a September 2018 report by the Clean Clothes Campaign, based on payslip analyses and interviews at four Cambodian suppliers designated by H&M as "best-in-class," revealed average monthly wages of approximately $200—below the estimated $270 poverty line—alongside violations of overtime regulations and disciplinary measures like public shaming. H&M had pledged living wages across its by 2018, yet as of 2025, advocacy groups assert no factories have achieved this benchmark, with workers unable to cover basic needs like food and housing. Gender-based violence allegations emerged prominently in 2018, when a coalition including the Asia Floor Wage Alliance documented over 85 incidents of physical or verbal abuse and 40 cases of sexual harassment at H&M suppliers in Bangladesh, Cambodia, and India between January and May, often tied to production deadlines; workers reported supervisors demanding sexual favors or using slaps and threats to enforce speed. A July 2021 report further alleged "wage theft" in H&M's Asian supply chain, where factories deducted payments for minor infractions or failed to honor contracts, exacerbating poverty amid the COVID-19 pandemic. In Myanmar, reports of military-linked abuses prompted H&M to halt sourcing there in August 2023, following worker accounts of forced labor and unsafe conditions post-2021 coup. While H&M maintains a supplier requiring audits and remediation, critics from groups like Clean Clothes Campaign argue these measures inadequately address root causes, as third-party verifications often overlook off-site subcontracting where conditions deteriorate further; H&M has contested specific findings, citing improved compliance rates in its own audits but acknowledging persistent challenges in wage progression. These allegations reflect broader garment industry dynamics, where low-cost sourcing incentivizes cost-cutting, though H&M-specific scrutiny intensified after unfulfilled 2013 wage commitments.

Greenwashing and Sustainability Claims

H&M has promoted its "Conscious" collection as featuring products made with sustainable materials such as , recycled , and other eco-friendly alternatives, positioning it as a key part of its environmental strategy. The company claims this line supports circularity by using materials that reduce environmental impact compared to conventional fast-fashion items, with marketing emphasizing recyclability and lower carbon footprints. However, the Conscious collection represents only a minor portion of H&M's overall sales, estimated at less than 5% of total production, while the bulk of its inventory relies on virgin synthetic fibers like , which constitute up to 60% of its materials and are derived from fossil fuels. Critics, including advocacy groups, have accused H&M of greenwashing by using vague terms like "sustainable materials" without specifying measurable or lifecycle impacts, potentially misleading consumers into believing the brand's operations are broadly eco-friendly. A 2021 report by the Changing Markets Foundation analyzed H&M's claims and found 60% to be unsubstantiated or misleading, particularly regarding recyclability promises for polyester-heavy garments that cannot be effectively closed-loop recycled at scale due to technical limitations and contamination issues. In the UK, a 2024 review indicated that 96% of H&M's sustainability assertions violated () guidelines for lacking specificity and evidence, relying instead on broad environmental benefit claims. Legal challenges have tested these accusations. In September 2022, a proposed class-action in the U.S. alleged that H&M's for the Conscious collection deceived consumers by implying full recyclability and without qualification, citing products containing 100% as evidence of discrepancy. The case was dismissed in May 2023 by a federal judge in , who ruled that the plaintiffs failed to identify specific deceptive statements made by H&M and that general references did not violate laws under guidelines. Plaintiffs withdrew related claims later in 2023, highlighting challenges in proving intent or materiality in such suits. Despite H&M's stated goals, such as sourcing 100% recycled or sustainably produced materials by 2030, assessments reveal persistent gaps: the company's garment collection program has recycled only a fraction of inputs into new , with much downcycled into lower-value uses or incinerated, undermining circularity claims. NGO reports, including those from Earthsight in 2024, have linked H&M's to Brazilian via sourcing, contradicting pledges despite supplier audits. These criticisms stem from the inherent scale of H&M's fast-fashion model, which produced over 3 billion garments in 2022 alone, amplifying resource use and waste even as per-unit efficiencies improve. H&M counters that its annual reports provide transparent data on progress, such as a 24% reduction in Scope 3 emissions per unit since 2018, but skeptics argue these metrics obscure absolute increases driven by volume growth. In March 2021, H&M faced widespread boycotts in following the resurfacing of its 2020 sustainability commitment, which expressed "deep concerns" over reports of forced labor in cotton production and pledged to avoid sourcing from the region. The statement, issued amid international scrutiny of labor practices, prompted Chinese celebrities to denounce the company, e-commerce platforms like to delist its products, and campaigns urging consumers to shun the brand. This backlash was amplified by framing it as foreign interference in domestic affairs, coinciding with U.S. and EU sanctions on officials for abuses. H&M's sales declined 23% in the second quarter of 2021 and 34% for the full year, contributing to store closures and a reevaluation of its market strategy there. The Xinjiang controversy highlighted geopolitical tensions between Western advocacy and China's rejection of such allegations, with H&M's policy aligning with U.S. legislation like the 2022 , which presumes goods from the region involve forced labor unless proven otherwise. Chinese authorities maintained that production involves voluntary labor programs, dismissing foreign boycotts as politically motivated smears. Similar consumer nationalism affected other brands like , but H&M's exposure was acute due to its heavy reliance on China for manufacturing and sales, prompting internal debates on balancing ethical sourcing with . On legal fronts, H&M has encountered multiple class-action lawsuits alleging greenwashing through misleading sustainability claims. In , a plaintiff sued over the "Conscious Collection," claiming labels like "more sustainable choice" deceived consumers about environmental impact given the company's fast-fashion model. A federal court dismissed a related 2022 suit in May 2023, ruling that general terms like "sustainable" were not actionable as , though plaintiffs appealed aspects of the decision. Another greenwashing case filed in 2022 by Chelsea was voluntarily withdrawn in December 2023 without prejudice. As of August 2025, a new class-action suit by accused H&M of in its "sustainability profiles," alleging overstated benefits from recycled materials amid ongoing fast-fashion production scales. H&M also settled regulatory actions unrelated to core operations, including a 2022 New York Attorney General agreement returning over $36 million in unclaimed funds to consumers. These cases underscore scrutiny over transparency in ethical claims, though courts have often favored defendants when assertions lack specific, verifiable falsehoods. No major geopolitical litigation has directly targeted H&M, but supply-chain compliance with anti-forced-labor laws has required enhanced audits and diversification away from high-risk regions.

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