Dreadlocks
![Minoan fresco from Akrotiri depicting figures with matted hairstyles][float-right] Dreadlocks are a hairstyle consisting of hair that has been intentionally matted, twisted, or neglected to form elongated, rope-like strands or cords.[1] The practice arises from natural hair felting due to friction and sebum accumulation when combing is avoided, often enhanced by techniques such as palm-rolling or backcombing, and has been maintained across diverse hair textures through deliberate cultural choices.[1] The hairstyle predates its modern nomenclature and appears in ancient records worldwide, with descriptions of the Hindu deity Shiva's jata—matted locks—in Vedic scriptures dating to approximately 1500 BCE, symbolizing ascetic renunciation.[2] Archaeological evidence includes Minoan frescoes from Akrotiri on Thera (modern Santorini), Greece, circa 1700 BCE, portraying youths with distinctive locked hairstyles, and ancient Egyptian artifacts such as mummified remains and wigs preserving similar formations, linked to priestly or devotional practices.[3][4] In Africa, indigenous groups like the Maasai of Kenya and Ethiopia have worn elongated, red-ochre-treated locks traditionally as markers of warrior status or age-grade rites. In the 20th century, dreadlocks became emblematic of the Rastafarian movement emerging in Jamaica during the 1930s, where adherents adopted uncut, matted hair inspired by Biblical Nazarite vows (Numbers 6:5) prohibiting hair trimming, signifying spiritual covenant, rejection of "Babylonian" (Western colonial) conformity, and emulation of Ethiopian Emperor Haile Selassie as a messianic figure.[5][1] The term "dreadlocks" itself originated in this context, evoking the awe-inspiring or fearsome presence of the divine ("dread" as reverence for Jah, Rastafari's term for God) rather than revulsion, though early colonial observers often viewed the style with disdain associating it with marginality or unkemptness.[6] Today, dreadlocks transcend religious origins, adopted globally for aesthetic, practical, or protective reasons, with maintenance involving periodic retwisting, washing, and oiling to prevent breakage while allowing natural maturation over years or decades.[1]Definition and Terminology
Etymology and Connotations
The term "dreadlocks" emerged in English around 1960, combining "dread," denoting fear or awe, with "locks," referring to strands of hair, to describe intentionally matted, rope-like hair formations.[7] This nomenclature originated within Jamaica's Rastafarian movement, where early adherents, known as "dreads," adopted uncut, locked hair as a symbol of spiritual covenant inspired by biblical Nazarite vows (Numbers 6:5) and Mau Mau warriors in Kenya, whose appearance evoked intimidation during anti-colonial resistance in the 1950s.[7][8] The "dread" element specifically connoted reverence for Jah (God) among Rastafarians, contrasting with external perceptions of the style as fearsome or unkempt.[7] Initially, the term carried pejorative connotations in Jamaican society, linking wearers to impoverished, rebellious fringes marginalized under colonial and post-colonial structures, before Rastafarians reframed it as an emblem of divine authority and anti-imperial defiance.[8] In Rastafarian theology, dreadlocks represent the "lion's mane" of Judah, signifying strength, natural purity, and separation from "Babylonian" (Western) grooming norms that involve cutting hair, as proscribed in Leviticus 21:5.[9] Culturally, the style's connotations expanded globally through reggae's influence in the 1970s, associating dreadlocks with countercultural resistance, spiritual asceticism, and solidarity against systemic oppression, though non-Rastafarian adoption often diluted these ties into broader symbols of nonconformity.[6] Socially, dreadlocks have evoked mixed responses: venerated in Rastafarian communities as a "crown of glory" affirming African heritage and covenant fidelity, yet stereotyped elsewhere as indicators of hygiene neglect or unprofessionalism, prompting workplace restrictions in sectors like corporate offices and military services as late as the 2010s in the United States.[9][10] This duality persists, with some contemporary advocates preferring "locs" to neutralize perceived negativity in "dread," arguing the latter evokes colonial disdain rather than inherent spiritual weight—a claim contested by etymological evidence tying it directly to Rastafarian empowerment.[8][7]Types and Variations
Dreadlocks, or locs, vary primarily by formation method, section size, and resulting texture, which influence their appearance, maintenance, and styling potential. Traditional locs are formed by parting hair into medium to large sections (typically 0.5 to 1 inch wide) and using techniques such as palm rolling, twisting, or backcombing to encourage matting, yielding rope-like strands that mature over 6-12 months into thicker, cylindrical forms often 1-2 cm in diameter.[11][12] These differ from microlocs or sisterlocks, which start with finer sections under 0.125 inches (3 mm) via interlocking or coiling tools, producing uniform, lightweight strands suitable for detailed braiding or parting, with sisterlocks specifically employing a patented grid pattern for precision.[12][13] Freeform locs emerge without sectioning or tools, relying on the hair's natural tangling from neglect, washing, and friction, which results in asymmetrical, varied thicknesses and organic shapes that can range from loose coils to dense clumps, often taking 1-2 years to fully lock and reflecting individual hair porosity and curl pattern.[11][14] Semi-freeform locs blend this approach with initial loose twisting for partial uniformity, bridging natural variation and controlled aesthetics.[12] Crochet locs, by contrast, involve hooking loose hair or extensions into knotted bases with a crochet needle, creating tighter, faster-matting locs that may incorporate synthetic fibers for added length or color, though this risks tension on the scalp if over-tightened.[11] Stylistic variations extend beyond formation, including tapered ends achieved by trimming during maturation, bucket locs with rounded, voluminous tips from curling pre-matting, or wicks (Florida-style), which use gel and wrapping for slick, wavy profiles before full locking.[12] Accessories like metal cuffs, wooden beads, or fabric wraps further diversify locs, altering weight distribution and cultural expression, while length variations—from short (under 3 inches) for low-maintenance crops to elongated styles extended via weaving—impact scalp health and versatility.[11] These differences arise causally from hair type (e.g., coily textures lock faster than straight), environmental factors like humidity, and user intervention, with empirical observations noting that finer locs require more frequent retwisting to prevent unraveling but allow greater flexibility in updos.[15]Historical Origins
Evidence from Ancient Civilizations
![Minoan fresco from Akrotiri depicting youths with apparent dreadlock-like hairstyles][float-right]Archaeological evidence from the Minoan civilization on Crete includes frescoes dating to approximately 1600–1500 BCE that depict individuals, such as young boxers from Akrotiri on Thera, with hairstyles resembling dreadlocks.[16][17] These artistic representations show elongated, twisted locks, interpreted by some historians as intentional matting rather than loose or braided hair, though artistic stylization may exaggerate natural tangling.[3] In ancient Egypt, sculptures, statues, and mummified remains from as early as 3100 BCE provide indications of dreadlock-like hairstyles, including wig extensions mimicking locked hair found with burials.[4] Bas-reliefs and artifacts portray figures with segmented, rope-like hair formations, potentially representing either cultivated locks or stylized curly textures common among Nile Valley populations.[18] Such evidence suggests dreadlocks or similar matted styles were present across social strata, though direct confirmation of formation methods remains limited by preservation challenges.[19] Vedic scriptures from India, composed between 1500 and 500 BCE, describe jaṭā—matted or twisted locks of hair—worn by ascetics and the deity Shiva, symbolizing renunciation and spiritual discipline.[20] These texts reference jaṭā as a deliberate hairstyle for sages, contrasting with groomed norms, and align with later iconographic traditions of piled, conical matted crowns (jatamukuta).[21] Archaeological corroboration is sparse, but textual consistency across Rigveda-era hymns supports the antiquity of this practice in Indo-Aryan cultures.[22] ![Depiction of Shiva with matted locks (jaṭā)][center]
Early Greek Archaic kouros statues (circa 600 BCE) feature youthful male figures with hair rendered in short, cylindrical locks akin to dreadlocks, a style echoed in Spartan military customs where hoplites maintained formal twisted hair.[4] While Roman accounts of Celtic warriors describe lime-stiffened, snake-like tresses (circa 100 BCE–100 CE), these likely refer to spiked or greased spikes rather than true matted dreadlocks, as bog body analyses reveal varied braiding without widespread locking.[23] Such interpretations highlight how environmental factors and grooming could produce lock-like appearances without intentional dread formation.